Vibration in front wheel - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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Vibration in front wheel

Hello, has anyone had a vibration that feels just like the front tire out of balance and it's something else? It's over about 80 and the tire balance it perfect, looks perfectly round, (Road 4 GT that looks like it has plenty of life left) and wheel bearings feel good front and rear, no play. Plus I checked the rear wheel balance, OK.

It is new to me, just put about 3k miles on it and at first I thought it was engine vibration above 5k but the frequency is too low... and at other speeds the engine feels smooth at that rpm.

I'm probably going to replace the front tire, and there I have to decide if I want to keep the R4GT or go Roadsmart 3, I love the Roadsmart on my Bandit, but love the R4GT in every way other than the possible cause of my vibration... They look like they are wearing well enough...
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 07:26 AM
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likely steering head bearings, check for detent. I've got the same problem and am going to swap with tapered roller bearings this winter.
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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 08:24 AM
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It’s hard to beat a PR4GT. It would be very unusual to have a bearing problem, steering or otherwise,though it’s possible.

Can you further describe the symptom
you’re concerned about?
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosolar View Post
Hello, has anyone had a vibration that feels just like the front tire out of balance and it's something else? It's over about 80 and the tire balance it perfect, looks perfectly round, (Road 4 GT that looks like it has plenty of life left) and wheel bearings feel good front and rear, no play. Plus I checked the rear wheel balance, OK.

It is new to me, just put about 3k miles on it and at first I thought it was engine vibration above 5k but the frequency is too low... and at other speeds the engine feels smooth at that rpm.

I'm probably going to replace the front tire, and there I have to decide if I want to keep the R4GT or go Roadsmart 3, I love the Roadsmart on my Bandit, but love the R4GT in every way other than the possible cause of my vibration... They look like they are wearing well enough...

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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 09:08 AM
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Pro, how many miles on your tire ? Has it done this since it was installed ? If it were me, I would look closely to see if the bead is seated properly all the way around and on both sides. Is there any cupping in the tread ?

On the head bearings, is there any oscillation in the handle bars at all ? The normal head bearing failure causes causes a wobble/oscillation In the 35 to 45mph range, that is the normal head bearing failure. A head bearing wobble at 80+ mph would likely cause seriously soiled shorts,, imho.
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 09:36 AM
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If this is a new symptom, it might be a caliper dragging.

When was the brake system serviced?

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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 01:28 PM
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"The Wobble" occurs when the bearing requires little force to move off-center. The OE ball bearing requires very little wear before this occurs. Plus little doubt the balls wear out of round for lack of motion. Wear notches in the races, although I've not felt anything like that.

Nothing said about how many miles on the FJR? How long since previous fork service? Or whether any effort made to relieve stress or binding in the alignment of the forks?

The 3 FJRs I have assembled front end the right end of the axle flush with fork seemed to be the right place.

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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 01:43 PM
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Vibration in front wheel

Quote:
Originally Posted by skippy344! View Post
If this is a new symptom, it might be a caliper dragging. When was the brake system serviced?
Prosolar,

Well, static wheel balancing (which is mostly what is available for bikes) is not as reliable as spin-balancing. Can anybody local to you spin-balance a motorcycle wheel?

I agree with Skippy, though, you may have a brake rotor that is not straight. It's best to use a gauge to check rotor run-out, but even a screwdriver clamped (carefully) to the fork tube can show a gap that varies with rotation of the wheel/disk. Mount the tip very close to the rotor, but not touching. If any one part of the disk scrapes the tip as the wheel rotates, there is a problem.

It may also be worthwhile to check the wheel bearings for any defect, using the axle through one bearing at a time, with the wheel off the bike. If you find anything flakey that way, then new bearings are needed, no doubt, and soonest; do not ride on bad wheel bearings.

It is also somewhat possible that the rear wheel is not well balanced, or out of round, or not running true. Check the run-out of the rear disk and the rear wheel itself.
HTH.
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies!

Mikester: there definitely isn't any symptoms of steering head bearing issues, no detent or play. But I am going to get in there and check/lube them up close.

Bill: Well it does feel exactly like a wheel out of balance. I feel it in the handle bars and not anywhere else. I can't completely discount engine vibration but it doesn't feel like that, lower frequency than the engine vibration at 4k, and when it starts is about 5k.

Passx: I don't know how many miles, they were on the bike when I bought it. They are in good condition still after 3k miles. I did look for obvious signs like bead seated or out of round tire. The date codes show 2016. There are no low speed issues or wobble, it's super steady.

Skippy: Not really a new symptom that I know of, I think it did it on my first dive home but figured that's the way it is, but during this long trip I def feel it couldn't be normal, when my old Bandit is smoother I know it's not normal! The brakes is a possibility, but doesn't feel like it and they performed flawlessly except a vibration when I'm heavy on them. It did get better after I scuffed and cleaned the rotors, and it didn't get any worse on my trip and they were used heavily. I did flush the fluid right away, (but it didn't look bad) and the pads are in great condition (EBC HH orange, my favs).

N4HHE: 43k miles. Fork service unknown. I did get a little fluid leak on one side when we got back, and I just cleaned it out for now, but I'll change the fluid soonish when I service the steering head bearings. So I'm understanding that this does not come with tapered bearings so I'll plan on updating those while I'm in there if it hasn't been done. I've had the wheel off twice so far, not positive how to avoid binding, but it feels fine and the right side of the axle is .4mm inside of flush.

Red: That's not a bad idea, I live in Portland, I search around for one. The shops I've used in the past don't but maybe a bigger dealership? I've put 75k miles on my Bandit so lots of tires mounted and balanced by me and others and never this issue. I did a simple version of checking run out but I'll get more technical to be sure my rotors are true. They might be replaced anyway since I have a vibration under heavy braking but I'll probably take another shot at scuffing and cleaning if they are true. I did check the wheel bearings when I first got it and more closely when I got back from my trip, I can't find any play or roughness, and I checked all that on the rear... the rear brake works great when I used it...

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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Also there is some cupping on both front and rear tire, but there was none before our trip, lots of winding roads...

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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-28-2020, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red View Post
Well, static wheel balancing (which is mostly what is available for bikes) is not as reliable as spin-balancing. Can anybody local to you spin-balance a motorcycle wheel?
I would argue just the opposite. ďComputerizedĒ spin balancing was invented to eliminate the need of skill to balance a tire. To speed the task. The one positive aspect is how the spin balancer can pinpoint an imbalance on left or right of tire. But they donít bother on motorcycle.

A static balance is a no-calibrate inherently accurate process. Accuracy is limited only by skill and friction in bearing. There really isnít much difference as to where the weight is placed +-3Ē or 7g. But a static balance requires a bit of skill, comprehension, and trial & error.

Cycle Gear will spin balance your wheel off-bike for free. Took my first FJR wheel to them after mounting new tire and noting static balance myself. Wanted to see if we got the same answer. The guy at Cycle Gear had no business balancing tires. Didnít know what he was doing. Wasnít smart enough to realize the machine was lying. He dutifully affixed weights it told him to, spun again, affixed more weights, again, and again, then still not getting a zero answer simply declared my wheel to be balanced. Weights scattered all over.

Took it home and checked myself. It was awful. Think I removed 10 weights. Balanced with 2 in a place none of the CG weights were. Later talked to a CG guy at that shop who, seriously, is a member of Mensa. Said the machine was out of cal and everyone was supposed to know not to use it. But they did.
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