So, P.O. did this.. - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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So, P.O. did this..

Hello Friends, I am not a metal worker, nor do I weld. And this is what the PO did to Orion on the left side delta box.
How does one fix this?
Sorry, pic is turned again... It is straight on my phone, but when I attach, it turns...
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'06 FJR1300A - Orion the Hunter

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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 12:39 PM
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I don't really know what I am looking at but guessing a bolt is broken off in a tapped hole in your frame?

There are many ways to extract a broken bolt but it might be best to pay a mechanic to do it. Better yet, a machinist. You seem to have a piece sticking out which makes the job easier.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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I don't really know what I am looking at but guessing a bolt is broken off in a tapped hole in your frame?

There are many ways to extract a broken bolt but it might be best to pay a mechanic to do it. Better yet, a machinist. You seem to have a piece sticking out which makes the job easier.
Oh no, the bolt is gone! The drilled hole is now just below the original hole. I cannot photo it very well...

I can see that he tried to drill out the snapped off bolt. But the drill bit moved down and to right...

I am contemplating taking it up to my local machine shop, see if they can fill it with aluminum and retap it for my new bolt...

But he would have to fill it and then tap it in exactly the right original hole. This is the upper left bolt that holds on the lower fairing.

Ugh...

'06 FJR1300A - Orion the Hunter

Greg

Old Corral

1977 Yamaha YZ-80 - Dirty Girl
1978 Yamaha YZ-125 - Dirt in the Shirt
1976 Yamaha XS500 - Old Blue
1980 Yamaha XS850SG - Twisted Triple or "TT"
1980 Yamaha XS11SG - Scorpion
1998 Kawasaki Voyager XII - Kermit

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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 03:59 PM
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So, P.O. did this..

Quote:
Originally Posted by skippy344! View Post
Oh no, the bolt is gone! The drilled hole is now just below the original hole. I cannot photo it very well... I can see that he tried to drill out the snapped off bolt. But the drill bit moved down and to right... I am contemplating taking it up to my local machine shop, see if they can fill it with aluminum and retap it for my new bolt... But he would have to fill it and then tap it in exactly the right original hole. This is the upper left bolt that holds on the lower fairing. Ugh...
Skippy,

The steel bolt remaining in the hole will foil any attempt to re-thread the hole. Drilling out the steel bolt is necessary, first. After that is done, you can usually drill-and-tap for a Helicoil or a TIME-sert. If you can drill a hole smaller than the old bolt, straight down the middle of the old bolt, you will probably succeed. I would suggest using a LEFT-twist drill, so if the old bolt locks to the drill bit, the left-twist drill bit will (hopefully) bring the old bolt out. Then use a larger drill to remove any remaining steel in the hole. You may need to install a larger-than-stock bolt, to replace the old bolt. Helicoils and TIME-serts come in all sizes and thread counts.

How big is the metal piece that the old bolt is in now? Is it reasonable to replace that entire piece outright with a new piece, or is the old bolt going into the crankcase, or some other huge casting? Can't tell from your pix.

Sorry, but tackling that job will not be fun. Good luck!
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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It is on the Delta Box frame, on the left side. It is the upper bolt hole that holds the lower fairing.

There is just a sliver of what looks like the old bolt. And the new drilled hole will make it impossible to drill for a helicoil. It is oblong now! LOL

Yeah, I may run it up to my local machine shop and see what they say.

'06 FJR1300A - Orion the Hunter

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1977 Yamaha YZ-80 - Dirty Girl
1978 Yamaha YZ-125 - Dirt in the Shirt
1976 Yamaha XS500 - Old Blue
1980 Yamaha XS850SG - Twisted Triple or "TT"
1980 Yamaha XS11SG - Scorpion
1998 Kawasaki Voyager XII - Kermit

Family Member bikes
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 05:05 PM
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Looks like something is sticking out. Most machinists I have dealt with would like to weld something sacrificial to that stub as their first effort to remove. Several things about this technique: A weld grabs better than anything, and the heat usually helps loosen the treads.

If that fails then center drill the stub. Sometimes that loosens enough to wedge an Easy-Out to remove.

At last resort drill the whole thing out larger for a Helicoil or Time-Sert.

In some high reliability/corrosive environments we would install Time-Serts from the start.
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Last edited by N4HHE; 09-23-2020 at 11:50 PM. Reason: s/head/heat/
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red View Post
Skippy,

The steel bolt remaining in the hole will foil any attempt to re-thread the hole. Drilling out the steel bolt is necessary, first. After that is done, you can usually drill-and-tap for a Helicoil or a TIME-sert. If you can drill a hole smaller than the old bolt, straight down the middle of the old bolt, you will probably succeed. I would suggest using a LEFT-twist drill, so if the old bolt locks to the drill bit, the left-twist drill bit will (hopefully) bring the old bolt out. Then use a larger drill to remove any remaining steel in the hole. You may need to install a larger-than-stock bolt, to replace the old bolt. Helicoils and TIME-serts come in all sizes and thread counts.

How big is the metal piece that the old bolt is in now? Is it reasonable to replace that entire piece outright with a new piece, or is the old bolt going into the crankcase, or some other huge casting? Can't tell from your pix.

Sorry, but tackling that job will not be fun. Good luck!
Try this, but do not try this at home. This is a job for a pro.
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 08:41 PM
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As above, if you can get the old one drilled out, you could fill it all with JB weld. after it cures , redrill and tap in the correct place for fairing attachment. Because it is only non stressed fairing attachment, this should work well for the life of the bike.

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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red View Post
Skippy,

The steel bolt remaining in the hole will foil any attempt to re-thread the hole. Drilling out the steel bolt is necessary, first. After that is done, you can usually drill-and-tap for a Helicoil or a TIME-sert. If you can drill a hole smaller than the old bolt, straight down the middle of the old
bolt, you will probably succeed. I would suggest using a LEFT-twist drill, so if the old bolt locks to the drill bit, the left-twist drill bit will (hopefully) bring the old bolt out. Then use a larger drill to remove any remaining steel in the hole. You may need to install a larger-than-stock bolt, to replace the old bolt. Helicoils and TIME-serts come in all sizes and thread counts.

How big is the metal piece that the old bolt is in now? Is it reasonable to replace that entire piece outright with a new piece, or is the old bolt going into the crankcase, or some other huge casting? Can't tell from your pix.

Sorry, but tackling that job will not be fun. Good luck!
Try this, but do not try this at home. This is a job for a pro.
So, I am not able to get a good picture, but the sliver, of the old bolt, that I can see is inside the hole. There is nothing protruding. It is just a tiny piece and is a bit shinier than the aluminium bung.

I will see if I can get that part out, without buggering it up anymore. If I am successful, I might try the JB Weld, as is pointed out, there is not a lot of stress on that bolt. It just holds the lower fairing close to the Delta Box frame.

I will take pictures if it turns out ok! Lol

'06 FJR1300A - Orion the Hunter

Greg

Old Corral

1977 Yamaha YZ-80 - Dirty Girl
1978 Yamaha YZ-125 - Dirt in the Shirt
1976 Yamaha XS500 - Old Blue
1980 Yamaha XS850SG - Twisted Triple or "TT"
1980 Yamaha XS11SG - Scorpion
1998 Kawasaki Voyager XII - Kermit

Family Member bikes
1982 Yamaha XJ650J - Whole Lotta Rosie
1982 Yamaha Virago 750 - "V"
2007 Honda CBR600RR - Holy S&!T
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-23-2020, 11:46 PM
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So, P.O. did this..

Quote:
Originally Posted by skippy344! View Post
So, I am not able to get a good picture, but the sliver, of the old bolt, that I can see is inside the hole. There is nothing protruding. It is just a tiny piece and is a bit shinier than the aluminium bung. I will see if I can get that part out, without buggering it up anymore. If I am successful, I might try the JB Weld, as is pointed out, there is not a lot of stress on that bolt. It just holds the lower fairing close to the Delta Box frame. I will take pictures if it turns out ok! Lol
Skippy,

This gadget (pix below) is called a Nut Plate. If you simply drill out the old hole, large enough to accept the nut part (flush) with the metal surface, you are almost home. Drill and tap two very small holes (or use tiny self-tapping screws) to secure the two "ears" on each side of the hole. Done deal.

If you are a fanatic, and careful, you can use JB-Weld to help secure the Nut Plate into the drilled hole, besides using two small screws.



Nut Plates come in all shapes and sizes. Typically they hold machine screws of various threads and diameters. The picture shows a "friction-locking" item, so you can install the right machine screw and it will not work itself free. Pick the machine screw you want to use, and buy the nut plate to fit that machine screw as to size and thread.

If you need a source for such hardware in the USA, "Nuts and Bolts" is a separate heading in the Yellow Pages. The real (not a wannabe) Yellow Pages on the Internet is:

https://www.anywho.com

Go to Find a Business, type in the heading you want, and give any local ZIP code. That site will SORT the results found by the distance to that ZIP code.
.
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Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Last edited by red; 09-23-2020 at 11:51 PM.
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