Poor, neglected bike. Getting her ship-shape! - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2020, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Poor, neglected bike. Getting her ship-shape!

Hi guys,
New soon-to-be FJR owner here. In the next couple weeks I'll be buying a 2005 FJR w/10K miles from a friend. It's been sitting outside in his driveway for 2+ years without being started or charged. I went and looked at it the other day to see how the ergonomics felt to me (6'5", 275 lbs) and decided to buy it.
I'll be picking it up once I get everything I need to get her going.

Here's what I'm thinking I'll need to do before starting and riding the bike home. Please add to it if I'm missing anything.

1. New battery (obviously). Any reasonably priced favorites? ($80-$120)?
2. Oil and filter
3. Coolant drain and flush-Do you think it's necessary if the coolant looks good and clean?
4. Drain the tank and put fresh gas in her. Add Heet? Seafoam? I'm a little concerned about clogging the injectors with what little gas will still be in
the lines after draining the tank.
5. Change final drive fluid? What do you guys think. With only 10K on the bike, I may just check the level.
6. Change the brake fluid? Same as above

What do you guys think? Anything else?
Thanks much,
Rob
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2020, 08:21 PM
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Check the inside of the fuel tank for rust...I'd pull the tank, flip upside down(if it passes the rust test) and get every drop of fuel out of it..

I'd pull the spark plugs, and at least put a little oil/Seafoam down each cylinder and crank with the plugs out as the cylinders are bone dry. Hopefully, no rust in the bores..

Change brake and clutch fluids and probably replace tires..
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Scott

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2020, 08:54 PM
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final drive .. you are talking 2 dollars of fluid ..just do it and you are good till next year.. of coarse the coolant will look good ..change it anyway ..again you are talking 12-15 $$ dont be a cheapskate !!!
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2020, 08:58 PM
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oh one other thing ..see what the date of manufacture is on your tires.. they could be too old to be safe ..it is coded on the side wall

Since 2000, the week and year the tire was produced has been provided by the last four digits of the Tire Identification Number. The first two digits being used to identify the week, while the last two digits tell the year. unquote
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2020, 09:07 PM
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How far is this ride home?


My answers to your list.......


1. New battery (obviously). Any reasonably priced favorites? ($80-$120)? - YES
2. Oil and filter - Optional but yes if you can do it.
3. Coolant drain and flush-Do you think it's necessary if the coolant looks good and clean? - Check level in rad and reservoir... ride it home, do it later.
4. Drain the tank and put fresh gas in her. Add Heet? Seafoam? I'm a little concerned about clogging the injectors with what little gas will still be in
the lines after draining the tank.
- As mentioned, check for rust in the tank, may be worse if tank is not full. Siphon out the old, put in fresh, add 4 ounces of Seafoam, and in the next tankfull.
5. Change final drive fluid? What do you guys think. With only 10K on the bike, I may just check the level. - at minimum check the level. Change it when you get home, that stuff doesn't go bad.
6. Change the brake fluid? Same as above - I would flush it if you can. Maybe clutch too, but that can be left until you get home.

I hate when stored outside. Hopefully he at least had a cover over it. Brake pads.... rust on rotors... make sure the brakes work, a short shakedown ride should tell you... brake pads should scrub off any light rust....
Check tire pressures and condition of tires. Hopefully your ride home isn't too long.



AFTER you get home, plan on changing out the CCT at your earliest convenience. On your way home, don't go redlining it.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2020, 09:19 PM
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Rob...
Just how far is ride back home? 10 Miles or 100++ ?

Unless you've done some prelim checking (like inside the tank), IMO you're being a bit optimistic about riding it home (but, that's just me).

I'd trailer/truck it home and THEN dig into your check-list.

However, IF that's not possible, then I'd say fuel system is your biggest concern.

Then check the basics (oils, coolant, tire pressures, brake fluids), drain old gas, install fresh battery and see what happens....
Deal is off if tank is rusty inside or there are any other red flags such as severely cracked tires etc....
Regards,
Mr. BR
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2020, 09:58 PM
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Poor, neglected bike. Getting her ship-shape!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edmonds Rob View Post
Hi guys,
New soon-to-be FJR owner here. In the next couple weeks I'll be buying a 2005 FJR w/10K miles from a friend. It's been sitting outside in his driveway for 2+ years without being started or charged.
Here's what I'm thinking I'll need to do before starting and riding the bike home. Please add to it if I'm missing anything.
5. Change final drive fluid? What do you guys think. With only 10K on the bike, I may just check the level.
6. Change the brake fluid? Same as above
What do you guys think? Anything else? Thanks much,
Rob
Rob,

5. FD fluid should be good, just check the level. If it appears cloudy after a brief trip, then it has water in it and it must be changed. Good clear oil, no problem.
6. SpeedBleeders make it easy to flush/change the hydraulic fluid in the clutch and brake systems.

Tire age, click the link and scroll down:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=11

A serious concern is the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT). If you see a green dot or blue dot, you are okay there. No color dot- the engine is running on borrowed time. There are tech write-ups here, if you do the CCT work yourself. You do not need to disassemble anything to inspect the CCT for the dot, but a strong light and maybe an inspection mirror might help:

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/9-f...ml#post1056346

.
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Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2020, 10:39 PM
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I will restate ..GUYS .. it is 2 dollars worth of gear fluid and 12 dollars worth of coolant to get ride of 15 YEAR old fluid
again ..change them and get to know your bike in the process
BTW being as it sat in the same spot fr 2 years the tires could be flat spotted
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2020, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!
The ride home is about 25 miles. I should have mentioned in the first post that ultimately I intend to flush ALL fluids. I'm just trying to figure out what I need to do in his driveway before starting it and riding it home.

I should also mention, I'm picking this bike up for $2000-$2500. Other than being filthy, there are no scratches or damage. A little bit of sun fading on the controls. But for a 10K mile bike, I don;t mind throwing a little money at it.

A couple questions:
It's sounding like a major concern is rust in the tank. If there is rust present, is it something I can take care of myself?
I search around a bit and found this:

Next up, tires. They looked surprisingly good. I expected to see some cracking, but none. I'll check the date code. At what age do I need to be concerned? Also, flat spots. I've dealt with them on cars and they kind of work themselves out once they drive a bit. Similar with bikes?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2020, 07:40 AM
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Stored, semi-empty tanks, especially in humid area's WILL rust up..(the "open" area where fuel doesn't protect the steel).

That is probably the biggest thing that can cause additional issues, (clogged fuel pump, injectors, etc).

Tanks can be cleaned and coated, short of having rusted thru..

IMO, I'd trailer that bike home and put some oil down the cylinders / and dump ALL the fuel out of the tank. For that short ride home, you can cause many problems that as of now could be preventable...



.
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Scott

2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.
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