Tire or Bike issue? - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 08:00 AM
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Chris just curious, does your bike headshake at all ? And did you install tapered head bearings or is it still the original balls ?

I would say that scalloping/cupping the front tire is pretty much normal but Iíll add that my 14a has a michelin pr4 on the front with 13k on It and itís still pretty smooth although there is some very mild scalloping/cupping/whatever and I have tapered head bearings which I believe tends to dampen any fork oscillating. Personally, Iíd change the front tire and then just enjoy your trip, deal with the head bearings at a later date like over the winter.
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 08:23 AM
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Normal. Probably a little worse than most due to a combination of a) slightly low tire pressure (needs NLT 40psi), and b) braking in turns. I cannot overstate how quickly one can shave the shoulders off a good tire when they have a habit of front braking in turns/curves.
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
Not a darn thing wrong with your tire. That is just the way modern radial (and bias) high performance motorcycle tires wear. Just because it ain't pretty doesn't mean there is anything wrong.

Scalloping is a pattern which repeats every tread block, cupping spans multiple tread blocks. Feathering is a form of scalloping due to the tire being forced to roll in a direction other than the direction it is pointing. Tread blocks flex and squirm and wear funny as they contact and release the road.

Motorcycle tires will scallop no matter what you do because the rolling diameter of the tire is different across the contact patch. Motorcycle moves at one speed but the speed across the contact patch is continuously changing because the distance to the axle is changing. Some of the contact patch must scrub. Tread blocks flex during scrub. Odd wear patterns emerge.

Higher inflation pressures result in a narrower contact patch. Narrower contact patch has smaller difference in speed on the surface of the tire from one side to the other than a wider contact patch. So you could reduce the scalloping with higher tire pressure but at the cost of less traction from a smaller contact patch.
Thanks! The only real handling problem was that the front end went into osillation at about 45 mph...not bad...you didnt really notice it unless you had a light grip on the bars.....I ordered the socket and the steering nut tool anyway as the front steering torque hasnt been checked in 18,000 miles (never). The manual has a very specific way they want you to torque the pinch bolts on the axel. Port side first, then starboard, and in a certain order. The dealer put on the last tire and the pinch bolts were definately not torqued to spec.
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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Normal. Probably a little worse than most due to a combination of a) slightly low tire pressure (needs NLT 40psi), and b) braking in turns. I cannot overstate how quickly one can shave the shoulders off a good tire when they have a habit of front braking in turns/curves.
Thanks! I will try the higher pressure....90 percent of its miles are from Spokane to the REno National air races every year coupled with either one lap of Idaho or going to Spearfish SD for a Honda Rally. I will remember the braking trick, although I ride very conservatively anyway.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Chris just curious, does your bike headshake at all ? And did you install tapered head bearings or is it still the original balls ?

I would say that scalloping/cupping the front tire is pretty much normal but Iíll add that my 14a has a michelin pr4 on the front with 13k on It and itís still pretty smooth although there is some very mild scalloping/cupping/whatever and I have tapered head bearings which I believe tends to dampen any fork oscillating. Personally, Iíd change the front tire and then just enjoy your trip, deal with the head bearings at a later date like over the winter.
Its got the orignial Bearings, which I am gonna check the torque on before I go...got the tools ordered. The PR 4 at 8k would shake the fork around badly at 45 mph but the Road 5 did a slight shake at 45 with a loose grip. I decided to follow Michelin's reccommendation of switching to a Road 5 GT. The back Road 5 is wearing fine. I do have a Road 5 GT at home for it. And a set of Road 5s for my VFR. My house is looking like a tire store. Oddly, my OEM tires on my 2017 XT Vstrom are still good at 8800, and over the last 50 years I cant remember OEMs going that long. Especially with touring loads. But its time to buy tires for that also.
Note tire wear of three bikes. VFR has 4400 on it...all this year. See the ridge on the FJR....XT tires still have a bit of life at 8800.
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 02:21 PM
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From the items I have read - on FB FJR -- tire pressures like oil threads come up often --- most seem to run 42 psi on Front and Back -- to help with the reduction of cupping/scallops etc. I recently did a long trip with mostly curvy roads -- no interstates and I came back with my tire looking very similar -- The FJR is on the heavy side and aggressive riding can wear the sides quickly ( my tire was getting up in mileage but it wasn't squared off like pictured when I left )
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by moparman70 View Post
From the items I have read - on FB FJR -- tire pressures like oil threads come up often --- most seem to run 42 psi on Front and Back -- to help with the reduction of cupping/scallops etc. I recently did a long trip with mostly curvy roads -- no interstates and I came back with my tire looking very similar -- The FJR is on the heavy side and aggressive riding can wear the sides quickly ( my tire was getting up in mileage but it wasn't squared off like pictured when I left )
I agree. I am going to keep track of what happens. And change my riding a bit and the tire pressure. First will be a 3,000 mi. tour of the Big 5 National Parks in Southern Utah late Sept. Then two tours next year....I see no reason a tire shouldnt last 8,000. When I was using Goldwing sized tires on my Kawasaka Concours , the bike rode like a dream and the tires lasted 12,000 mi. I can live with 8 k.
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 09:20 PM
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Chris, hate. To say it but I believe you are a candidate for a set of tapered bearings. In your shoes, I would torque the head bearings to 16-18ft-lb, go over loosen And retorque all the fasteners on the front end, put a new tire on and enjoy your trip ! Run 40-42psi pressure front & rear, enjoy your trip. Once home, plan on replacing the steering head bearings over the winter and plan your ride for next year ! It is a possibility that retorquing things may fix your problem, if it does then just go over & retorque things this winter.

Your description of the shake is the typical 35-45mph headshake from bad head bearings, the only thing that fixed mine was a set of Alls-Balls tapered head bearings. Like I said before my Michelin PR4 has just over 13,000 miles on it with very minimal scalloping/cupping/whatever and will probably go Iíd guess 15-16k before itís worn out, maybe more, weíll see. But the allís-balls made my loose/wobbly handling fjr very nicely tight and a precision handler, not an R1 but really good. My .02
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 09:26 PM
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That red FJR is sure pretty.
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-28-2020, 09:38 PM
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When you torque the steering head bearings, raise the final torque to 15-18 ft. lbs, the Yammy 13 ft. lbs. is a little too light IMHO.
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