Engaging gear - Cold engine. - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Engaging gear - Cold engine.

Hello FJR owners. Donít worry, I hope itís not the same old question, but hopefully a solution.

Having bought my FJR 2005 with low mileage here in the U.K. a couple of weeks back, I started to sort small things.
Some way down the list has been Ďengaging gear with a cold engine problemí, as discussed in many a post on this and other forums.

So I flushed through new Dot 4 from the clutch reservoir and took out the dirty stuff - no difference.
Not wanting to rush into a clutch plate flush I pondered on the problem, for days.
Today, I went out to the bike with the theory that by having the clutch on the right of the engine, the plates may more easily drain dry due to having the prop stand on the left. So, I started the engine in neutral, lent the bike over to my right as fast as I could manage whilst holding the clutch lever in tight and blipping the throttle to around 2500rpm.
After several goes at this and having run the bike for about a minute, I engaged 2nd gear with a very positive upward tug from my foot.
Straight in!!
Not chattering, no noise, just a healthy clunk.

I went back to neutral and with bated breath positively thrust the gear lever down into first.

Barely a click !!!
👍👏🇬🇧🏍
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 12:41 PM
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John, with all the problems I had with the clutch dragging when my bike was new in 2014 I always start the engine in neutral, let it run until it comes off of high idle, pull the clutch in and just give the throttle a couple. Of quick blips and it just snips into. 1st gear, no noise, no muss, no fuss. Similar to what you do minus the leaning thing, Iím afraid of getting it to far over center and having it go completely over. See if it works for you.

Steve P
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 12:48 PM
red
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Engaging gear - Cold engine.

John,

1. You can usually get the same results by starting the engine in Neutral, pulling the clutch lever, and blipping the throttle (gently, when the engine is cold) a few times. Repeat as needed. This trick separates the clutch plates, before the you make the gears do it by blunt force. Click, not CLUNK.

2. Alternately, you can leave the engine Off, put the bike in gear, pull the clutch lever, and roll the bike backwards and forwards (as much as the compression and gears will allow) until the clutch plates un-stick.

3. You can also maintain some normal oil flow into the clutch when riding, by pulling and holding the clutch lever, in gear, while stopped at traffic lights or for any short time you are stopped. Rapid shifting and clutchless shifting both deprive the clutch of the normal oil flow which the plates should get. Oil can not get into the clutch plates, when the clutch is fully engaged; clutch plate separation (clutch lever pulled, in gear) helps. This practice is also a safety assist: if you need to move out quickly to avoid some oncoming fool, you are already in gear to go. All IMHO, of course.

The new Yamaha clutch core (slipper clutch version) has extra oil holes, and will retro-fit into some earlier models, to keep the clutch plates oiled better than the earlier clutch core. If I ever get into the clutch, I will change the clutch core for the new version (or drill the old one to match the new version), although I have had no problems with sticky clutch plates, prolly due to my habit of #3 here.
.

Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Last edited by red; 07-17-2020 at 12:51 PM.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, thanks fellas, I tried the blipping throttle and holding clutch in but wasnít as successful with cold engine.
Allowing engine oil to get hot and blipping throttle with clutch lever in was an improvement too.
My little legs are not capable of leaning too far to the right, but it definitely helped and seems to be a slight glitch in the early Gen. design.
Iíve also read about others drilling holes to allow better oil flow, but, isnít balance an issue if not accurately drilled or wouldnít that be effective enough to cause a problem if slightly out?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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I found one reasonable Youtube video by an Irishman taking his clutch apart.
Doesnít seem an enormous job. (?)
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 02:16 PM
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I doubt sloshing the FJR around does anything for the clutch plates getting oil...


Oil flow in following pic (yellow) path of engine oil to the trans shaft, oil gets on the first couple of plates, inner hub of clutch not drilled (prior to Gen3) so more oil flow would be desirable in middle of the clutch pack from the inside. Oil would be forced centrifugally out through the plates.
Don't know that I would drill the hub (bit of work), because usually a clutch soak will keep things good for a long time.
red has some good suggestions, but I'd also freshen up the clutch fluid/bleed and check the brass bushing in the clutch lever. If still "sticky", do a soak.


Ignore red path on the diagram, someone was just speculating...... not possible.





Ray
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 06:38 PM
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I suppose one could park the bike on the center stand to keep the oil from draining off to the left? I have found on my '13 that a couple of quick blips on the throttle along with walking the bike backwards out of the garage, with the clutch disengaged, usually unsticks the clutch plates.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 10:34 PM
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Engaging gear - Cold engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by judgedelta View Post
I suppose one could park the bike on the center stand to keep the oil from draining off to the left? I have found on my '13 that a couple of quick blips on the throttle along with walking the bike backwards out of the garage, with the clutch disengaged, usually unsticks the clutch plates.
judgedelta,

The crankcase engine oil is a long way down below the clutch plates. I doubt that you could tip the bike far enough, even with help, to do any good at the clutch without dropping the bike.

If you removed the clutch cover, I suppose you could shoot oil-can motor oil over the top edges of the clutch plates (with the clutch lever tied back to the hand-grip). You may or may not get enough oil where you want it to go, though. Usually, a clutch plate soak is done in a pan of motor oil; it isn't difficult, just make working notes, and/or pix, as you see fit, and don't lose anything. You can find tech write-ups for a clutch soak job here, or on other FJR forums.

I seem to be doing fairly well, just using #3 from my post above. I'm really a simple guy, going a simple way. Works for me.
.

Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2020, 11:30 PM
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Red, in addition to the clutch in & blip the throttle when cold startup I do your #3 above, never thought about that and the benefits because it’s just what I always do for the potential rapid exit thing. I’ve been riding for over 50yrs now and it’s just what I’ve always done.

Steve P
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Ride more,, worry less !
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2020, 09:50 AM
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Likewise. The only reason I can see to shift to neutral would be to do something with my left hand and I can't see doing that at a stoplight in the middle of the road. Better pull off and get out of traffic. Just my $0.02...
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