FJR Top Gun
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: near Great Salt Lake, Utah, USA, Sol III
Engaging gear - Cold engine.
1. You can usually get the same results by starting the engine in Neutral, pulling the clutch lever, and blipping the throttle (gently, when the engine is cold) a few times. Repeat as needed. This trick separates the clutch plates, before the you make the gears do it by blunt force. Click, not CLUNK.
2. Alternately, you can leave the engine Off, put the bike in gear, pull the clutch lever, and roll the bike backwards and forwards (as much as the compression and gears will allow) until the clutch plates un-stick.
3. You can also maintain some normal oil flow into the clutch when riding, by pulling and holding the clutch lever, in gear, while stopped at traffic lights or for any short time you are stopped. Rapid shifting and clutchless shifting both deprive the clutch of the normal oil flow which the plates should get. Oil can not get into the clutch plates, when the clutch is fully engaged; clutch plate separation (clutch lever pulled, in gear) helps. This practice is also a safety assist: if you need to move out quickly to avoid some oncoming fool, you are already in gear to go. All IMHO, of course.
The new Yamaha clutch core (slipper clutch version) has extra oil holes, and will retro-fit into some earlier models, to keep the clutch plates oiled better than the earlier clutch core. If I ever get into the clutch, I will change the clutch core for the new version (or drill the old one to match the new version), although I have had no problems with sticky clutch plates, prolly due to my habit of #3 here.
2008 FJR1300A - Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
Last edited by red; 07-17-2020 at 12:51 PM.