Fjr 1300 2003 heat on the left side - Page 3 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-22-2020, 08:21 AM
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You can get a roll of the stuff for less and do 3 or more bikes with it.
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Ridden wet. Put up hard.

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-22-2020, 04:33 PM
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Thank You Mr Red !! Even tho I do not have a 2003 you made life much easier for tech tards like myself !!!!!

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2020, 06:57 PM
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I too just purchased a 2003 FJR and am looking for help w/ the heat issue. One thing I ran across "Barbarian" and Torch mods so you can adjust the co2 levels to make her run richer. Worth the effort? I will be doing a lot of work on her this week: tires, all fluids, grease points, CCT swap etc...So she will be taken apart anyways. Just wondering about opinions. If I am hijacking thread I do apologize. I can create my own but I figured since it was the same subject....

New to me 2003 FJR1300

Last edited by nunia720; 07-29-2020 at 12:33 AM.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2020, 11:09 PM
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Nunia,

The FJR engine is liquid-cooled and thermostat-controlled, so I doubt that the problem is caused by a lean mixture, or that a rich mixture can fix it. If I wanted to try that approach, Ivan's Performance of Georgia has an ECU re-flash option which (I hear) fixes several such fueling issues in the best way. The stock ECU does have a lean-fueling injector map, to satisfy the EPA, so this "richer" approach may (or may not) help. It's easy to mail the ECU to Ivan, and he usually gets them done in a day.

There are two very different heat fixes for the Gen1s, the left side and the right side heat fixes. There is also an under-the-gas-tank "heat blanket" fix that keeps the family jewels somewhat cooler. None of these are "final fixes" for the excess heat, but somebody thought they were good, or at least better than nothing. I can't say, myself, because I have a Gen2; Yamaha fixed most of the FJR glitches, by then.
.
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- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-29-2020, 12:02 AM
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Thanks Red for putting that into perspective for me. I am use to dealing w/ CV carbs both on my own machine and friends. EFI is new to me as far as having my own and wrenching on it. But that makes 100% sense to me. I was leary of messing with it anyways just because for all practical purposes the bike runs better than I have been able to tune a carb!!!

New to me 2003 FJR1300
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-29-2020, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nunia720 View Post
I too just purchased a 2003 FJR and am looking for help w/ the heat issue. One thing I ran across "Barbarian" and Torch mods so you can adjust the co2 levels to make her run richer. Worth the effort? I will be doing a lot of work on her this week: tires, all fluids, grease points, CCT swap etc...So she will be taken apart anyways. Just wondering about opinions. If I am hijacking thread I do apologize. I can create my own but I figured since it was the same subject....

Changing the SO settings with a BJM works a little. It works with the no-load/closed-loop surging at about 35 mph but getting a chip tune or Power Commander is more effective. with adjusting the curve to be smoother than it came from Yamaha after they met EPA numbers. Buying a small roll of that bubble-film heat shield and cut it to shape for under the tank will help some (most with heat absorption from the tank). Perception of heat on Gen1s are not the bike over-heating. It's how the bike manages the air flow once it's dumped the heat load to atmosphere. Heat ON the rider. not heat in the bike.





Ridden wet. Put up hard.

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Last edited by bounce; 07-29-2020 at 08:11 AM.
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-29-2020, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernie View Post
In my considerable experience, all these Gen 1 heat fixes on the internet, do not work. The only thing which helps a bit, is to fit a short windscreen on the fairing. A large windscreen creates a large low pressure area behind it when riding, this low pressure sucks up hot air from the radiator onto the rider.

I just bought an '05. Came with a National Touring windscreen (very large). As soon as I raise it high enough to block the wind on my face, I can feel the heat coming up from the motor (which I will appreciate come October ). Keeping the windscreen lowered at its lowest setting keeps me nice and cool - but the bug-in-the-face effect is increased in direct proportion.


Maybe try sitting on an gel ice pack


Edit: I did have to stand up a few times on my four-hour ride back from buying my '05 to air-cool my precious jewellery :-)

Rubber down, shiny up! And remember, not everyone out there is trying to harm you!


'64 Huffy Stingray passion purple (dearly departed)
'71 skateboard with 3 wheels
'05 FJR1300A ABS (looks like some PO ran it through a mess of barbed-wire fencing!)
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Last edited by Ace Handler; 07-29-2020 at 02:54 PM. Reason: Additional pertinent information for all to see
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-29-2020, 02:48 PM
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This may be a really.stupid.question but is there a chance that this plastic/metallic bubble wrap could meld from the engine heat? I was thinking of using the leftover stuff I bought to insulate the water heater in my condo.


What a nasty mess that would be! Like a cheese burger cooked too long in the BBQ with the lid shut!

Rubber down, shiny up! And remember, not everyone out there is trying to harm you!


'64 Huffy Stingray passion purple (dearly departed)
'71 skateboard with 3 wheels
'05 FJR1300A ABS (looks like some PO ran it through a mess of barbed-wire fencing!)
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-30-2020, 07:49 AM
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I ran rock wool firewall insulation for about 5 years before swapping it out. Silver bubble wrap might but this stuff is designed for it. From the link above (sorry for the fonts they chose).


Reflective Insulation Foam Core - Pure Aluminum
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:58 AM
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After reviewing the threads on this topic and my purchase options I made my own (Gen1 '05). I found some leftover heat-shield in the basement that had foil on one side only. I added foil 'muffler repair tape' (2" wide) to the non-foil side and made a piece that covers the area from just in front of the 'tool box' (and fits under the rear gas tank bracket) and over top of approx. half the gas tank (the Scrotal Zone). Works great - even with the tank 1/4 full, the warmth is only pleasing to the touch. Mind you it's a rare day when our temps go over +25 C! But on a long ride before the mod I had to stand up a few times to air-cool the jewels.


I could've made a template to share, sorry I didn't. But it's not hard to measure as you go. Unbolt the back of the tank and then support it (someone suggested using blocks of wood but those end up being in the way) - I strung a rope through the two tank-mounting tabs and pulled the back of the tank up and suspended it from my garage door rail. Remove the rear tank support bracket (4 bolts in the frame and 2 into some rubber blocks). Measure the rectangular space in the area below where the tank bracket was (just in front of the 'tool box'), then there's a narrow transition between the frame rails, then the piece can be about 18" wide where it fits over the tank and down each side. The final shape kind looks like a bird with a rectangular tail and swept-back wings. Took about 2 hours to fiddle it in there. I had to cut two rectangular holes afterwards to allow access to the aforementioned rubber tank bracket mount blocks. Hope that helps someone :-)

Rubber down, shiny up! And remember, not everyone out there is trying to harm you!


'64 Huffy Stingray passion purple (dearly departed)
'71 skateboard with 3 wheels
'05 FJR1300A ABS (looks like some PO ran it through a mess of barbed-wire fencing!)
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