2006 FJR Automatic - Shift light comes and dies - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-03-2020, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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2006 FJR Automatic - Shift light comes and dies

New problem. While riding almost at any speed some times the shift light comes on and the engine dies and then the shifter will not work and bike will not start. After a little while you can manually shift to neutral and start otherwise it will not start in gear and you can go and some times it dies again with first thing being the shift light coming on on the right, yellow. New problem, almost looks electrial like something totally cutting out. Any help is appreciated. have check voltage, battery about a year old and seems to be charging with the system, voltages seem to be OK. Was riding today and did again, almost got stuck 70 miles from my house the other day, did this several times then it stopped so I just drove straight home on the highway at high speed. Connecting a volt meter so I can drive and have an eye on voltage the whole time, not done yet.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-03-2020, 08:45 PM
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there was a guy on this forum or facebook with the same problem that never really got resolved, I have to wonder if this is the same bike
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-03-2020, 09:17 PM
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crazy heat causes crazy problems, no idea where u are but if it hot maybe the battery is saying good bye. A clutch fluid change maybe. need to know any stored codes as well.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-03-2020, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DHabibi View Post
New problem. While riding almost at any speed some times the shift light comes on and the engine dies and then the shifter will not work and bike will not start. After a little while you can manually shift to neutral and start otherwise it will not start in gear and you can go and some times it dies again with first thing being the shift light coming on on the right, yellow. New problem, almost looks electrial like something totally cutting out. Any help is appreciated. have check voltage, battery about a year old and seems to be charging with the system, voltages seem to be OK. Was riding today and did again, almost got stuck 70 miles from my house the other day, did this several times then it stopped so I just drove straight home on the highway at high speed. Connecting a volt meter so I can drive and have an eye on voltage the whole time, not done yet.
Read the service manual on how to pull codes from dash in Diagnostic mode. Log what they are and read chapter 8 page beginning with page 171 and read that section it explains how to delete these stored coded and a chart for what they are and what to check.

My 2008 AE did this the first week I owned it. Mine was ME downshifting from 5 to 4th etc and pushing the gear lever and did not WAIT for the trans to shift so I tried to down shift it again. Do this a couple of times and the shift light will come ON and clutch will NOT disengage. So whatever gear your in it will slow down and engine will die and NOT start...., clutch is ENGAGED..

Per the small AE owners manual Place bike on center stand rotate rear tire while manually pushing gear linkage to get it back in Neutral switch OFF/On and it will start and shift again but CODE is still stored and will do this again sooner or later. I barely got home after going thru this two times the first day I owned it.. I have owned a dozen bikes in the last 50 years so I felt really STUPID after realized what I had done to cause this.

Do make sure you have a GOOD battery per the manual with a VOM per the FSM. Hope this is what is happening to you. And not a electrical issue will see when you post what codes are stored.

When I figured out how to delete the codes and I learned how to shift it no issues in the last 8,000 miles.

Louis
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-03-2020, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2GENAE View Post
Read the service manual on how to pull codes from dash in Diagnostic mode. Log what they are and read chapter 8 page beginning with page 171 and read that section it explains how to delete these stored coded and a chart for what they are and what to check.

My 2008 AE did this the first week I owned it. Mine was ME downshifting from 5 to 4th etc and pushing the gear lever and did not WAIT for the trans to shift so I tried to down shift it again. Do this a couple of times and the shift light will come ON and clutch will NOT disengage. So whatever gear your in it will slow down and engine will die and NOT start...., clutch is ENGAGED..

Per the small AE owners manual Place bike on center stand rotate rear tire while manually pushing gear linkage to get it back in Neutral switch OFF/On and it will start and shift again but CODE is still stored and will do this again sooner or later. I barely got home after going thru this two times the first day I owned it.. I have owned a dozen bikes in the last 50 years so I felt really STUPID after realized what I had done to cause this.

Do make sure you have a GOOD battery per the manual with a VOM per the FSM. Hope this is what is happening to you. And not a electrical issue will see when you post what codes are stored.

When I figured out how to delete the codes and I learned how to shift it no issues in the last 8,000 miles.

Louis
Curious as to what years you can pull codes on the dash with
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-03-2020, 11:42 PM
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Curious as to what years you can pull codes on the dash with
I have only done this on my 2008 Gen II, my guess all Gen II from 2006/2012. Ray or some of the other more knowledgeable owners will post up.
Louis

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 03:12 PM
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For AE, can pull codes on all as Louis says.... others have found connections to the shifter switch, actuator, etc. could use a little refresh... I'd say unplug, spray contact cleaner, inspect for broken connectors that can let water in, plug back in to refresh the connections. One guy had a broken/faulty paddle switch, kinda rare... I don't know if lubing the shifter linkage will help, can't hurt.
A buddy of mine had the welded bracket break off the rear subframe, the actuator was flopping around.... some early ones had the rear actuator mount tab break off, just check the screws are installed and snug.

I'd suggest a bleed of the clutch fluid, and I know that's a bit of a procedure.... some found a workaround by cycling the ignition as I recall, rather than following the FSM method......... but maybe leave that until you find everything else in order.
All I got..... let's see what codes you have.....
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the input I will look into the codes, I am an electrical engineer and pretty mechanical but have not had to work on too many bike, usually fixing cars or trucks. This bike has 54K on it, I bought with about 43K, have not had any issues. It is an automatic one, so no manual clutch. Battery a year old, checked its voltage and will test it under load. Again hooking up a voltmeter so I can watch the voltage at all times while I am riding. I live near Tahoe so generally temperature not an issue. When this problem happened I was in Grass Valley and much hotter there and riding double and I was going slow around town so heat was an issue there and my fan was probably working the whole time so again was wondering if voltage got low some how, the alternator seems to be working voltage in high 13s. Problem is I drove it 5 miles away from my house the other day and did this once again so I drove home and parked it. Have not had time to start digging yet. Will see if I can get the codes. Was trying to provide more information in case any of it is relevant. Bike has been solid till now, no issues but I almost had to tow it home from 70 miles away. I have changed oil and put a new battery and new tires in the last year is all I have done to this bike. I do wash it and keep it clean so wondering if water has got into places it should not. Checked fuses and they were dry.





Don
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 07:55 AM
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If you are getting stumbling, and humidity is high, condensation in the tank occurs, if the fuel is older than a couple of weeks, phase separates... if you don't want to put Seafoam in it, put some isopropanol (a couple of ounces will take care of that water).
Stumbling can be a symptom of a TPS going south... you'll not likely have a catastrophic failure, just deterioration over time, and all the wear on the ceramic resistor boards occurs where you have the throttle the most... in the 10-20% range.
One of the things the FJR needs is good hydraulic fluid, I'd think on an AE it would tend to be neglected as that's such an involved procedure to bleed it.
The symptoms you describe we've heard several times with AE's... need good electrical contact, shift linkages moving freely, etc. and a good battery with staying power... Yamaha typically says 12.8V. While running the charging system will take care of it, and should take care of fans running if you could keep the revs up.
You could wash the bike all you want, no water should have gotten into anything including the gas tank, assuming the connectors are sealing.
Problem is, no one has AE info all in one place, so we have to search old threads across multiple forums to find what others did to solve the issues.

Ray
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 08:17 AM
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Spider bite ?

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Ride more,, worry less !
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