Random Power drops while riding? - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Another thing, I seem to have hit the physical limit on increasing the idle, I cannot turn it any further and its sitting just over 1000, so unless I can do something to make it turn a little further it seems to be maxed out.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 12:03 PM
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Has the S4 ground spider mod been done. I think the recall was because the bike would quit at speed and the wire harness could be damaged.
Call dealer with s/n and they could tell you if itís been done.

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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooseman1. View Post
Has the S4 ground spider mod been done. I think the recall was because the bike would quit at speed and the wire harness could be damaged.
Call dealer with s/n and they could tell you if itís been done.
I am not sure, that's a good idea though I will check!

It's sitting out here idling, it has 0 problem stationary, but as soon as it moves it has a chance of cutting out?
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 12:12 PM
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Have you accessed DiAG to see if there are other codes? Have a service manual?
Code 19 indicates "Black/Red wire to ECU broken/disconnected" however, that means bike won't start or run at all.... intermittent connection might explain something... go under the left side cover/seat tray and disconnect the ECU connector, perhaps spray some contact cleaner and air dry it out, check for any wires pushed out of the connector especially the black/red one... or same at the fuel injection connector(s) you plug the PC3 into at the TB's.
Idle should be at 1000-1200 if you can, however, if maxed out, should check that #3 sync screw is at least 3/4+ turns out from seated, then all others synced to that... needs a touch more vacuum flow so you can re-adjust idle up a bit.
While you're at it, remove all sync screws careful not to lose little O-rings and spring, clean the screws and squirt some carb cleaner/Seafoam/solvent/even WD40 (naptha) to flush the passages out if you see any significant carbon build-up on the screw tapers. Reinstall all screws to lightly seated, back them all out 3/4+ turns (no more than 1 full turn), then sync....... being out of sync shouldn't cause stumbling issues, but perhaps idling issues. Note original positions of sync screws... if any one was fully seated, not enough flow in that particular cylinder (note this only applies to Gen1/2).
With kickstand down and in gear, bike will not start. It should in neutral with kickstand down.
At this point, we're just trying to eliminate things hoping not having to get into the TPS.

Ray
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 12:33 PM
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And check in the maintenance record. Idle screw all the way in but needing more idle is a classic example of a timing chain jumping a tooth on the crank sprocket. If a valve check has been done lately or just prior to parking the bike back then, it may be worth investigating further.

Russ
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I have a manual, its been helpful through out this adventure.
No other codes, its only showing the code 19 again, I have attempted to push in that red/black wire on the connector under the tank, both sides. Also made sure to pull the ECU connection and clean, still nothing.

And the bike operates correctly where kickstand down in gear we get nothing, but in N or kickstand up it (sometimes) starts. Except right now still blinking code 19 and not starting.

I verified in the DiAG that the kickstand switch operates correctly, since its only a problem in gear and moving, I'm thinking maybe something is wiggling loose? Cleaned out the connection

I am going to check the synch screws as Rayzerman recommends, hope this makes some progress. REALLY do not want to blow more money at a dealer
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 01:01 PM
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Kickstand up "sometimes" starts..... frequently getting code 19, then sounds like tracing that black/red wire down wherever it terminates. Got clean connection at the starter relay in that 4-way? It affects FI and fuel flow, etc. Would you say engine cuts right out occasionally when riding, e.g., as if ignition turned off and on, cutting out due to intermittent connection affected by vibrations kind of thing?

Run/Stop switch may need cleaning... ??

Ray
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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I can be WOT and it cuts like its sputtering, not getting fuel. It doesn't always happen at WOT heck it cuts out if i just try to pull out of my driveway! So that's what makes me think it is something about moving in gear that is causing this, just cutting out intermittently, occasionally dying as I come to a stop too.

And about calling to check on what recalls have been done, none of the shops i have called around me answered,,, guess its lunch time for everyone haha.

According to the log book the only recorded recall performed dealth with the ignition, he had the mail paper from Yamaha with his stuff here.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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I now have constant code 19. Will not start at all, if I clear the code it momentarily runs but ultimately cuts out, so I guess I will be tracing all paths of that red/black wire
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 01:37 PM
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Random Power drops while riding?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThanksBarry View Post
Ok... Update
Removed PC3 & reinstalled O2 sensor. Checked MAP vacuum line, they're all clear, checked fuel tank vent, it was partially clogged but I cleaned it out and its open.
STILL CUTTING OUT
In fact I got stranded down the road from my house So from what I remember that code is either the kick stand down while in gear, or just ECU error.
Anyone have any other ideas? is something just flat out wrong with my ECU??
Barry,

I suppose an ECU can be faulty, like any electronic gear. Maybe somebody here has a spare ECU that they can lend to you, for a test. With the Ivan re-flash project, I'd expect there to be a few extra ECUs around the FJR world now. The (real) electronics shops can sell you a can of aerosol freeze spray, which can cool down the ECU to frosty temperatures. A hair dryer can warm the ECU to hand-comfortable temperatures, safely. These temperature changes should NOT affect the engine operation in the shop. If that does happen, then the ECU definitely needs help, or even a replacement.

Since the problem does not happen when stopped, only on the road, I would want to start the bike and use the clutch (in gear) to make the bike surge forward a few inches, and repeatedly. If there is water in the gas tank, you may be able to get it to slosh around in there, enough to cause the cut-out problem in the shop.

Back in the day, I once made a water-oil separator (like the old Ford tractors had for gas, but tougher) to keep any water in my oil tank out of the 2-stroke oil pump. The Yamaha dealer wrote me off as a nut. (I wouldn't argue the point, even now.) His opinion changed, when I showed him later that it was working; the separator soon had an ounce of water in it. Wish these bikes had a loop of clear fuel line (and visible) on the bike's gasoline supply system, these days. It would prolly cost an extra two US dimes for each bike, though.

Hang tough, there. Keep us posted.
.

Cheers,
Red
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- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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