High-G FJR Junkie!
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Millgrove, ON, CA
The number of clicks is variable, can depend on how well you got the fork cap seated all the way down on the damping tube on the cartridge..... the total number is in fact irrelevant to anything.
All that's important is the adjuster pushes on the rebound rod against a spring-loaded tapered needle. When you snug it in fully clockwise, the tapered needle is seated (don't overtighten, do it gently so not to damage the brass) and will flow no oil. That is the hardest setting, basically no rebound damping at that point. Backing it out x clicks means more oil flow through the valve... at 20 it's most assuredly full open for all intents and purposes....
The standard Yamaha setting is not a lot of damping at all, certainly no good for the twisty rider. This is one method you can use... I always recommend starting at 8 clicks out where you can start to feel it, that to me is medium.... now you adjust/tweak to your liking based on several trips over several conditions... might take you a week, might take you months.
If you first turn it 4 clicks you should immediately notice a difference, now you know what that feels like... tweak two more, next one more... ultimately you'll decide where to be.
Compression damping on the lower fork tube, same thing. Rebound damping on rear shock (which affects rear compression somewhat) same thing.
Things will change once/if you upgrade your fork springs so they properly hold you and the bike up to the proper ride height/sag. Tweak the damping again at that point, likely a tad lighter. The idea being you should not over-damp but use what is necessary to get the job done.
Keep yer stick on the ice....
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