Reflexively I pulled front brake, slip sound comes from front wheel and death wobble started Recovered wobble after releasing front brake.
Forgive my english as not native to it. I tried to say, imagine someone will cut off and brake check front of you and you realized you can not stop at that speed and pull brakes as hard as you can. You have very little time to think so in this case I think rear brake cant save me and used my most force on front brake.
Welcome. You are listing symptoms that have nothing to do with abs. Nothing you do on the centerstand, as far as running the bike, will test abs. It simply doesn’t work that way.
Running it on the centerstand will, rightly, cause the system to detect a failure (front wheel speed doesn’t match), and may cause it to disable abs and/or generate a fault code.
As far as the engine stopping and restarting during your re-test, engine operation and braking aren’t related- unless you forget to use your clutch...
In summary, stop trying to test things by running the bike on the centerstand. To test abs, either induce lockup in montion, in a controlled setting, or buy an abs test harness from Fjriders.com, when they’re back in stock.
Thanks, as mentioned I have zero experience with abs so main purpose of this testing gears shifting properly because previous owner does not allow to ride before buying. After I saw abs light, assumed that its ok and does not needed for extra testing.
Odd the front doesn't at least work.... meaning the whole thing doesn't work and all you have is standard braking... so, the electrial basics must be sound.
The ABS fuse is the 30 amp fuse on the side of the starter relay, and that sends main power to the ABS relay (likely found under the right side cover near the ABS pump). The trigger circuit comes from the ABS ECU (when conditions dicatate), or via the ABS diagnostic connector up by the battery.
Check the fuse. Then either use an ABS test harness to activate the test sequence or short the sky blue and black terminals in the diagnostic connector. If the pump does not run, then you need to test the relay, which shouldn't be bad because it doesn't get much use.
Next thing to do is remove the wheel sensors, clean any white (aluminum) corrosion off them and the hole they mount in, and coat them lightly with silicone grease, reinstall. This will assure the ABS ECU is seeing clean sensor signals.
I believe the ABS light should come on when you first start the bike, and it will go off when you get moving (ABS ECU sees normal wheel signals). If it is flashing, it means ABS is not working, or abnormal wheel signals, or perhaps some error codes exist..
Next thing to do is go into the diagnostic screen and see what error codes exist... best have a service manual.....
Replacing a master cylinder will not cure your issue. Hopefully you can do the simple fixes first and avoid having to replace the ABS Pump assembly ($$$$).
The next step is, does the ABS pump run the diagnostic test........... keep us posted.
Thanks for your reply. In Turkey fraudment rate too high. Even in authorized dealers and services. If they recognized that you dont understand basics/mechanics you have a big hole in your wallet. Anyway...
Have a limited time today so I went down to garage and do a quick test:
Shorted pins, armed for 5 seconds with crank button, held both front and rear brake. Good thing that pump works but I am not sure about it sounds good or not, not like the sound on videos I watched at least. There are 3 codes that cycles ABS-11, ABS-24 and ABS-25 which I cant find clear information about. On a video I watched before, you need to turn on ignition switch then push crank for clearing codes but it actually cranked the engine so I miss a step probably or totally normal situation.
As you said ABS light lit during engine crank and went off after engine runs. Tomorrow I have more time for diagnosis so continue tomorrow.