2013 fork leg stuck SOLID on disassembly... - Page 3 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by chucksklrst View Post
I agree, Lube the seal up with fork oil very liberally.
The FSM says to grease the seal with lithium grease.
But there was no sign of grease from the factory assembly in mine!
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Is there a good reason that top bushing is a press fit? It seems to me that a snug fit is all that would be necessary, and the seal seat washer right above it protects the seal from damage. Would it be crazy to file the bushing ends a bit to make it easier to remove next time? I'd rather not have to destroy the bushings every time I have to do the seals (though I guess for JUST the seals, I can find a way to do the hydraulic method).
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 03:55 PM
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I don't see a problem trimming a bit off... fork tube diameter holds it and the washer, don't see how it can do any harm except make sure no burrs/sharp edges on the ID or OD. Probably don't have to take much off, slip into a vice, run a Dremel wheel up the split?.

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Erich Knoop View Post
Is there a good reason that top bushing is a press fit? It seems to me that a snug fit is all that would be necessary, and the seal seat washer right above it protects the seal from damage. Would it be crazy to file the bushing ends a bit to make it easier to remove next time? I'd rather not have to destroy the bushings every time I have to do the seals (though I guess for JUST the seals, I can find a way to do the hydraulic method).
I have a feeling that when hydraulicking (if that's the right word) the seals out the top bush came half way out on one fork and near enough the whole way out on the other.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
I don't see a problem trimming a bit off... fork tube diameter holds it and the washer, don't see how it can do any harm except make sure no burrs/sharp edges on the ID or OD. Probably don't have to take much off, slip into a vice, run a Dremel wheel up the split?.
You'll get loose forks if you destroy the fit of the bush in the lower tube.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 07:57 PM
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The thickness of the bushing is a constant, the ID of the bushing seat maintains the outer diameter, the inner fork tube maintains the inner diameter, where can it change? The bushing is held down by the washer with seal on top and retaining ring, where can it go?

I have had other bikes that have bushings that are not an interference fit and they come out easily at removal time. But to each his own.

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 08:01 PM
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I think some racers do this to hold oil for better ??? I saw a y-tube video of a rebuilder doing this. He explained it as cross hatching like you would do to a cylinder wall to retain oil for lubrication.

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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2020, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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For posterity: I ended up just taking a flat file to the ends, and let the spring tension of it drag as I pulled the file out, so it would stay roughly even end-to-end. Must've been at most a few thou taken off, and everything's been working great. Next time I have to do a seal it'll be a **** of a lot easier -- plus now I've got a press to do the seals hydraulically, so I'll be able to reuse the sliders.
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