2013 fork leg stuck SOLID on disassembly... - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2020, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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I can definitely feel it if I probe in there with a magnet tool or something, and it does sound a little different when I test with some oil on an old inner bushing on the slider...oh please oh please don't tell me it's bad news :cries:
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2020, 10:17 PM
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I am really grateful for your sharing, it is helping me right now
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-26-2020, 07:02 AM
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I can't really tell..... doesn't look awful to me, looks like fine scratches... The lower bushing rides on a film of fork oil... of course we ideally don't want any roughness to the bore, but..... I'd put in new bushings and go with it, nothing to lose.... lower bushing slides up and down inside the bore, worst that can happen is the Teflon wears off a little faster, and the bushing is copper and likely will wear first before the tube. Think of it as slowly honing the bore..... but down the road 10-20k, I'd pull the bushings again and see whazzup....

If you really want to get into it more anally, get one of those three-stone cylinder hones and a long drill shaft and (with some oil to lube) run it up and down the bore just enough to remove any perceived roughness.
Really worst case, find a used lower from some salvage place on ebay, usually the inner tubes/cartridges can be bent in a collision, and the lower bore should be unharmed. I wouldn't spend the bucks on a new part..... any fork leg from Gen2-3A will work, all the same... if it's the left side, then Gen2 will have a compression adjuster at the bottom, just won't be able to use it with the dummy cartridge on that side.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-26-2020, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Solid plan -- I have honing tools, but not sure if they're long enough to get in there.

Is there any way to reasonably make the top bushing easier to remove in the future? I was thinking it doesn't need to be such a tight fit in there, since it's held in place by the oil seal seat washer. Maybe file away some of the gap on the new part?

Even the other leg, which went much better, lost its inner bushing when I pulled it apart gently, so I don't want to damage the bushings next time I go in to have a look!
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-26-2020, 09:26 AM
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I have one of those 12" & 18" drill extensions... two set screws hold the drill bit, or the hone, in this case. Should be able to find one at your favourite tool store.

Ray
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2020, 05:38 AM
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My post from last year on fork seals - pity I didn't notice this thread before the big hammers came out of the tool box.

Removing reluctant fork seals.
So, the feejer is in my shop for deep maintenance including fork seals, RHS was leaking, can't be bothered with the sealmate thing, most of my buddies over here say it cures leaks for a week and then the leak comes back.
Fork out of the bike and drained in the normal way etc etc. Dust seal off remove spring ring. Lower body in the vice, slide hammer action with the top tube-bang bang bang for 30 minutes - no movement.
Heat gun on top of the lower tube - bang bang bang for ten minutes - zilch.
Gas torch on housing around where the seal is - hot enough so that spit sizzles on it - bang bang bang - no sign of any movement at all.
That was yesterday - with the help of some excellent bourbon I thought up a scheme based on the Yamaha FSM procedure. I have an engineering press but it won't take the length of the fork fully extended.
We have a vertical electric-hydraulic log splitter, it will take a 40 " log.
This morning, made up a thick aluminium tube sleeve to cover the preload and damper part of the top tube cap, filled the fork to the brim with some dexron 3 I don't use anymore, screw the cap on tight, under the splitter and pop! out came the seal- messy as you get atf/oil spraying out, but no damage to fork body. It made the splitter motor grunt a bit before the seal popped so no chance of getting it out with the slide hammer action as in all the manuals I reckon.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2020, 07:15 AM
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I have a friend with a large hydraulic press... same procedure, fill with ATF or some kind of oil, seal will pop out without a lot of mess because you can control it with higher powered hydraulics. Very good if you're just replacing seals. You still need to slide hammer it to get the upper bushing out. I've taken apart many forks in my day, I've never come across upper bushings with such difficulty to remove as FJR's (due to that interference fit).
I've also read (and some kits come with it) to grease the main oil seal lips before reassembly. I can recommend that on the outside of the seal for sure, but mostly I use fork oil.

Ray
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2020, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
I have a friend with a large hydraulic press... same procedure, fill with ATF or some kind of oil, seal will pop out without a lot of mess because you can control it with higher powered hydraulics. Very good if you're just replacing seals. You still need to slide hammer it to get the upper bushing out. I've taken apart many forks in my day, I've never come across upper bushings with such difficulty to remove as FJR's (due to that interference fit).
I've also read (and some kits come with it) to grease the main oil seal lips before reassembly. I can recommend that on the outside of the seal for sure, but mostly I use fork oil.

Lube the seal very well and also us a small plastic sandwich bag over the top of the fork tube before you slide the seal on it. Keeps the top edges of the tube from nicking the seal lips.

Chuck Henderson (US Army RET 1968-1991) (Forever Home Colorado) STOC# 086, KLRST# 001
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14 FJR1300A (Ruby FeeJeR) 17 Versys 300X(Little Gray Bike) 19 Versys 1000LT SE (Flying Nun) 13 Vstrom 650(Wee III)


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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2020, 11:25 AM
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That is the best Chuck, but what the "grease" idea was as I interpreted it, was to stay between the two seal lips and deter build-up of dirt that normally gets in there... not sure what I think of that, I've only done it once.... that said, wiping down the fork tubes occasionally is good especially if bug guts stick to them and high suspension travel can have those wear on the seal lips also. The dust wiper doesn't really "seal" just keep the big pieces out...
Where fork seals have leaked on me, I found an accumulation of fine dust/grit in between the seal lips, and while SealMate can clean a lot of that out, it's a sign the seals need to be replaced.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2020, 01:28 PM
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I agree, Lube the seal up with fork oil very liberally.
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Chuck Henderson (US Army RET 1968-1991) (Forever Home Colorado) STOC# 086, KLRST# 001
RIDE a little FASTER, RIDE a little FURTHER
14 FJR1300A (Ruby FeeJeR) 17 Versys 300X(Little Gray Bike) 19 Versys 1000LT SE (Flying Nun) 13 Vstrom 650(Wee III)


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Last edited by chucksklrst; 05-28-2020 at 09:36 AM.
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