Success with Highway Pegs - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Success with Highway Pegs

I finally got the pegs going...and I think it's going to work...


I ordered $65 pegs from Ebay which are shameless knock offs of the Kuryakyn counter part. (Hey, I'm retired and on a budget!


I remember reading somewhere that someone thought the company sent them two "right" side items. I thought I'd got the same treatment, but studying them, I note that the tab with a hole in it on the foot rest (connects actual foot rest to arm) can be rotated 180 deg. so that one foot rest can be "right" and one can be "left". I did heed warnings about over tightening since these are not the real deal and the lesser metals won't take the same forces.


On top of everything else, the clamps for these are not 7/8 like the TRex crash bars need. They are 1.25"! First problem to solve was how to make a shim that would allow me to tighten them down to hold them in place.
(see photo)
These shims are cut from a piece of aluminum flat bar. I used four per side. They seem to work well, but long term testing will tell. I used "blue tape" to tape the shims to the hinge to put it on, and then tightened it into place. Pulled the tape off when it was safe to. You can see the remnant of that.

Here's a photo of the shims I sawed off from the flat bar. I made them in varying lengths so that I could mix and match. One combination of four longer shims wouldn't let the clamp close enough to engagethe bolt...solution? substiture shorter shims until the fit is right.

This was a scrap piece. If you do this , vary the lengths so that you can fine tune the shim fit.


I did the right side first then tried to duplicate on the left. As right and left crash bars are not mirrors of eachother, the left side had to go higher on the actual crash bar than on the right, but I measured from the bottom of each foot rest to the floor. Both are 17 inches. (when FJR is on the centerstand)


I know from fitting pegs before the each peg should be canted back about 15 deg because your feet are when you stick them out to the sides. It's hard to explain, but you should get the pegs canted at the same angle as your boot heel is. 'nuff said.


There are very small adjustment screws that regulate how far the foot rests go DOWN toward the ground when you open them for use. I'm sure these are copied from Kuryakyn, but they wok well... Mine are turned a little "upward" beyond level so my feet don't slide off as easily.


Here's a visual of what the right side looks like. I could move them so my feet are lower, maybe, but right now I'm pleased they "work" at all.
Time for a test ride!




....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg peg_level.jpg (204.1 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg peg_shims.jpg (175.4 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg peg_to_floor.jpg (219.1 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg peg_view.jpg (217.2 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg peg_shim_cut.jpg (219.3 KB, 54 views)

- StratTuner - FJR1300 (2012)
"Time ... , why you punish me? Like the waves breaking on the shore
you wash away my dreams..." - Darius Rucker

Last edited by StratTuner; 04-08-2020 at 08:31 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 06:23 PM
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Strat, I love reading your posts, but you must have some German in you. That's way over engineered, when a couple layers of radiator hose would have done the same. The hoses would have allowed extra grip. Those aluminum pieces could allow rotation over time, as the hoses could too, but the hoses would have been non-maring. I am aware, my opinion is worth squat. It's your bike and do what you want. I do like the complimentary 'enhancements' you've done from your past posts. Good luck with that and ride on!

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 06:32 PM
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I've always found those clamps end up spinning. After the last time I told myself to drill a hole and put a steel pin right through it. I read the posts and I'm still thinking along those lines....next month's project!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FjrjrF View Post
Strat, I love reading your posts, but you must have some German in you. That's way over engineered, when a couple layers of radiator hose would have done the same. The hoses would have allowed extra grip. Those aluminum pieces could allow rotation over time, as the hoses could too, but the hoses would have been non-maring. I am aware, my opinion is worth squat. It's your bike and do what you want. I do like the complimentary 'enhancements' you've done from your past posts. Good luck with that and ride on!

I think you're right about radiator hose. Non-marring would have been much better! It's worth testing. I tried the rubber from a bicycle tube, but that "gave" too much. My deficiency is that I don't have a piece of radiator hose... I do have flat bar.... so I used that.

The highway pegs work fine. I just tested them on a 72 mile loop on I-15. They cause more wind to blow over my mid section, but they give me an alternate place to put my feet! That's what they're for! I can also lay my calf on the pegs and ride stretched all the way out.

I'm glad someone likes reading the posts. It's all meant to fun and entertaining... I'm not the smartest guy, but I do enjoy figuring things out.

The best up grade I did (I think) was the heated seat. Use that every time I go out.

Wonder what a section of radiator hose costs at the Autozone? (local auto parts store)... hmm... looks like I may find out..(smile)




...
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ice_station_zebra View Post
I've always found those clamps end up spinning. After the last time I told myself to drill a hole and put a steel pin right through it. I read the posts and I'm still thinking along those lines....next month's project!

I went to a special effort to attach the clamps on a vertical tube so that my downward weight can't make them turn on the tube they're clamped to. I put the clamp at a "corner" where the two tubes come together. the clamp could (maybe) turn right and left, but it can NOT turn up and down.

- StratTuner - FJR1300 (2012)
"Time ... , why you punish me? Like the waves breaking on the shore
you wash away my dreams..." - Darius Rucker
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 09:22 AM
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An alternative would be to buy a short piece of aluminum tube from McMaster-Carr and cut it up in short pieces to make sleeves.

"If ya can't be handsome, ya might as well be handy!"

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 09:38 AM
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Maybe a piece of plastic pvc ?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 12:13 PM
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Then Drill and tap the clamp on two opposing sides for set screws.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 07:38 AM
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I did/have something similar. Great position, certainly makes it a lot more comfortable for me. However, they are all scraped to heck, as any good turn will kiss the pavement. I try to put them up whenever I know I've got a turn ahead, but there are times where you hear the noise.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sector7g View Post
I did/have something similar. Great position, certainly makes it a lot more comfortable for me. However, they are all scraped to heck, as any good turn will kiss the pavement. I try to put them up whenever I know I've got a turn ahead, but there are times where you hear the noise.

Well ... I have NEVER scraped a peg in 200,000 + miles of riding...
but I did consider that when mounting the current set.

- StratTuner - FJR1300 (2012)
"Time ... , why you punish me? Like the waves breaking on the shore
you wash away my dreams..." - Darius Rucker
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