Easy Miles...less wear? - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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Easy Miles...less wear?

Time to put a new tire on the rear of my 2014. At 5,666 mi, in 2017, I put on a Michelin 4, and took out the U joint and lubed it up with moly grease. That was 3 years ago. The bike now has 16,500 or so and the rear tire went 10,800 miles in three years. I had the shop mount a Michelin 5 today. The splines and the u-joint look just like I put them together 3 years ago. 60 percent plus of that 10k was done in Septembers...I go to the Reno Air races every year so that's three trips from Spokane and back. And one trip to Spearfish SD when my Honda NT broke. I seldom ride in heat or rain that time of year....and hardly ever in the rain anyway out west. I am not a hard rider. I am happy with this level of tire wear out of the Michelin 4. I am not touching the splines but may relube the hub...although I dont think it needs it. (I have a Suzuki Vstrom and a Honda VFR too so no one bike gets ridden a heck of a lot of miles in any given year....) Brake pads look great.
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File Type: jpg a tire 3.jpg (99.5 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg a tire 7.jpg (213.1 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg a tire 8.jpg (112.9 KB, 22 views)

Last edited by Coyote Chris; 02-13-2020 at 02:15 AM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 03:27 AM
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I did that same spline and u-joint maintenance on mine just 150 miles in ,due to a rear tire puncture since I already had the wheel off. Encouraging to know the splines and u-joints show no urgent need for attention.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 06:36 AM
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I am impressed your PR4 went 10,500 miles as I thought I rode my 2008 AE "EASY". My PR4 GT rear was touching the wear blocks at 7,500 miles. I had a puncture so I purchased new Pirelli Angel GT A Spec this time. My front PR4GT had a lot more miles remaining but it was "scalloped". I noticed this when I backed out of my garage on the smooth concrete, I could feel the scallops. So I replaced them both and looked the rear end like you did and my grease was on the splines was still nice looking from when we service the bike when we mounted the PR4GT, brake pads still look good. I have 1,500 miles on the Angel GT and so far no scallops "yet". I have always used the softer Michelin Pilot on my sport bikes (ZX14 Ninja) that last about 5,000 and thought the PR4GT should have lasted longer.. Looks like my right wrist needs to be a little "slower" at stop lights LOL. I do ride two up a LOT more now with the FJR, I have a GIVI rear trunk with a SR357 mount and a back pad on the E52 so my wife enjoys the bike a LOT better.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 07:53 AM
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My 14a has a PR4 on the front with a little over 13k on it and will probably go 15k before needing replaced, it replaced the Shinko 005 that only had 1k on it because it was blamed for the front end wobble that ended up being steering head bearings, but that is on the front. The PR4 has a very slight amount of scalloping, but I am quite happy with it, I would buy another but I’ll put the Shinko 005 back on and wear it out first.

On the rear, I had a Shinko 005 Advance that had a little over 11k on it before I replaced it with a Shinko Verge2, we’ll see on it, as far as the right wrist goes it does make a difference, on my new Verge2 shortly after it was installed I had a clutch slipping problem and once I had it fixed I was really hard on the throttle to verify that the clutch wasn’t still slipping and you could see the tread on the rear tire just evaporate over about 300mi. I don’t think the mileage will be very good on the Verge since I’ve really abused it, we’ll see.
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Last edited by passx; 02-13-2020 at 08:02 AM.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 09:00 AM
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You guys starting another tire thread, LOL? What brand of Moly Paste you using?

Yamaha only states use lithium grease... if you had a Honda (softer splines) you need Moly Paste. What you're also doing in the FJR's case is preventing corrosion, nobody likes a dry spline, and we love to promote the use of moly.


As for wear, the splines are not constantly sliding in and out of each other on an FJR. The driveshaft at the rear end is spring loaded to keep everything at the U-joint/middle gear end fully engaged at all times. The rear end is lubricated with final drive oil.


OK back to your tires... carry on.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 12:06 PM
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I found the same thing about splines but I'd be cleaning about 2/3 of that goop out of the hub before it ended up slung out onto my rear wheel and tire. Think Brylcreem- a little dab'll do ya!
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 2GENAE View Post
I am impressed your PR4 went 10,500 miles as I thought I rode my 2008 AE "EASY". My PR4 GT rear was touching the wear blocks at 7,500 miles. I had a puncture so I purchased new Pirelli Angel GT A Spec this time. My front PR4GT had a lot more miles remaining but it was "scalloped". I noticed this when I backed out of my garage on the smooth concrete, I could feel the scallops. So I replaced them both and looked the rear end like you did and my grease was on the splines was still nice looking from when we service the bike when we mounted the PR4GT, brake pads still look good. I have 1,500 miles on the Angel GT and so far no scallops "yet". I have always used the softer Michelin Pilot on my sport bikes (ZX14 Ninja) that last about 5,000 and thought the PR4GT should have lasted longer.. Looks like my right wrist needs to be a little "slower" at stop lights LOL. I do ride two up a LOT more now with the FJR, I have a GIVI rear trunk with a SR357 mount and a back pad on the E52 so my wife enjoys the bike a LOT better.
Louis
I got almost 16,000 from my rear PR4GT, with wear indicators still not quite showing. Best tire I have ever used and needless to say I bought another one. Got 11,000 from the front PR4GT before it was scalloped enough for me to want a new one...mileage is more than your wrist. Road surface makes a huge difference IMO
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
You guys starting another tire thread, LOL? What brand of Moly Paste you using?

Yamaha only states use lithium grease... if you had a Honda (softer splines) you need Moly Paste. What you're also doing in the FJR's case is preventing corrosion, nobody likes a dry spline, and we love to promote the use of moly.


As for wear, the splines are not constantly sliding in and out of each other on an FJR. The driveshaft at the rear end is spring loaded to keep everything at the U-joint/middle gear end fully engaged at all times. The rear end is lubricated with final drive oil.


OK back to your tires... carry on.
IMveryHO on this bike, just about any moly/lithium grease is fine as long as it doesnt go away. The in and out movement concerns me not...every "gear/spline" in the driveline is subjected to the typical leading and trailing and constant throttle forces just like every gear in the tranny. As long as there is some lube on the metal, problems are few. We have a high milage rider over on the NT forum whose Pumpkin to wheel splines were never serviced by his shop during tire changes, dried out completely, and turned to ground up metal. That being said, I started with moly paste on my NT and use that on the FJR.
One interesting theme I see here is front tire cupping...I have heard many explainations why it now occurs. All I know is that if I release the handlebars at 30 mph and the bike front end shakes, I put on a new tire. Cupping can appear, and has appeared, on this bike early in the life of the front tire. Last July, I put on a new Michelin 5 front and after 2500, you can feel the cupping by putting the hand over the tire. The front handlebars dont shake....yet.....
Another caveat....when I was a kid in the 1960s, I would run tires far longer...I was young and dumb and poor. Now, if you take a look at that tire in the pic, it could have gone longer, but I am no longer young, dumb, nor poor.
The rear tire on this bike comes off in 10 min 31 seconds, btw. I took off the panniers and laid out the tools, watched two wheel obsession vid, and started the watch. I like bikes that have easy to remove wheels.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 03:03 PM
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Dan uses some Moly from the Honda shop they use on Gold Wings spines and rear differential gears. I am sure there is many others as good for those here that have asked what to use.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote Chris View Post
IMveryHO on this bike, just about any moly/lithium grease is fine as long as it doesnt go away. The in and out movement concerns me not...every "gear/spline" in the driveline is subjected to the typical leading and trailing and constant throttle forces just like every gear in the tranny. As long as there is some lube on the metal, problems are few. We have a high milage rider over on the NT forum whose Pumpkin to wheel splines were never serviced by his shop during tire changes, dried out completely, and turned to ground up metal. That being said, I started with moly paste on my NT and use that on the FJR.
One interesting theme I see here is front tire cupping...I have heard many explainations why it now occurs. All I know is that if I release the handlebars at 30 mph and the bike front end shakes, I put on a new tire. Cupping can appear, and has appeared, on this bike early in the life of the front tire. Last July, I put on a new Michelin 5 front and after 2500, you can feel the cupping by putting the hand over the tire. The front handlebars dont shake....yet.....
Another caveat....when I was a kid in the 1960s, I would run tires far longer...I was young and dumb and poor. Now, if you take a look at that tire in the pic, it could have gone longer, but I am no longer young, dumb, nor poor.
The rear tire on this bike comes off in 10 min 31 seconds, btw. I took off the panniers and laid out the tools, watched two wheel obsession vid, and started the watch. I like bikes that have easy to remove wheels.
I had the same as you describe- a front end wobble with a worn tire. It shouldn't do that. I tried all kinds of things- loosening/retorquing, different tires & pressures, bearing service, everything. Once I replaced the steering bearings with All Balls tapered bearings the problem went away and has never returned regardless of any other combinations of conditions. IMHO you should consider replacing your bearings. There are many, many threads about it. You'll be glad you did.
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