Quick and easy coolant change on a 2017 FJR - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quick and easy coolant change on a 2017 FJR

How to tackle this job:
1- Remove the left side "slidable vent cover". First twist the dzus fastener hidden on the lower portion of the fairing, then pull and remove fastener (don't lose it) push cover forward and remove, this gives you access to the coolant reservoir for checking and topping off.
2- Pull the reservoir cap and the tube attached to it completely out (tube is some 2 inches long, going into the reservoir).
3- With a 50 cc syringe and tubing (amazon) remove all the old coolant. Be thorough, its easy.
4- Now fill the reservoir to slightly above (1/2 in.) "full" mark with new coolant, use the syringe and tubing or a funnel with long, thin, flexible tube available at any auto store, then replace cap with its tube back in securely.
5- Remove the front bezel panel.
First remove the headlight adjuster knobs, then the 4 big allen screws and the few quick connects, make sure to remove all quick fasteners, there are some hidden on the low portion of the bezel.
6- "pop" the bezel from the fairing by gently pulling/separating the two parts. I used my hands only, some people use a tape-covered screwdriver to separate bezel from fairing, not really necessary if you are careful and patient, it does take some effort but they "pop" out, just by prying apart, start about halfway from mid line on each side. To remove it you will need to open and then close the glove box compartment to make it easier on the left side.
7- Once top bezel is removed, open glove box and remove the large phillips head screw easily seen with door open.
8- There is a screw holding the corner of the glove box perimeter to the fairing out in the front portion of the perimeter, remove it.
9- Remove the large Allen bolt holding the fairing on the side.
10- This gives enough free play of the plastic parts to remove the perimeter of the glove box (black piece) and once this piece is out, there is enough wiggle room/space to get under it to the radiator cap.
11- Remove radiator cap.
12- Go steal some nail polish from your wife, put a tiny mark on the drain bolt and the block, that way you will know exactly how far to tighten the bolt after draining the coolant. RETURN SAID POLISH TO ITS PREVIOUS LOCATION!
12- There is a copper washer on the drain bolt, manual says to replace but it is perfectly reusable, remove drain bolt and out goes the coolant!
13- Once it completely stops draining and dripping, give a generous swig of coolant to the radiator, you will see another stream of coolant pour out, with this maneuver you do not need to remove the lower radiator hose, all the old fluid sitting in that tube has been rinsed away with new coolant.
14- Replace drain bolt with the copper washer, tighten to the mark you placed previously, do not over tighten!
15- Fill radiator SLOWLY, a few ounces at a time, stop and seat on motorcycle, swinging bike side to side, you will hear fluid gurgling inside, squeeze hoses gently if you want, again to burp as much air as possible, continue this way until you see coolant at filler neck.
16- Replace radiator cap, ensuring its fully screwed back in.
17- Start engine, let it warm up, give it a few revs once warm, get it to 220 F or until radiator fans kick in (now it's a good time to check if both fans are working properly and ensure hoses are not leaking) leave engine running at idle until fans stop, then maybe another minute, shut engine off.
18- Start buttoning her back up while it cools and draws coolant from the reservoir. If you overfilled the reservoir it will probably end up in the middle of the range and no further topping up will be necessary, this however may take several hours, so be patient.
19- After several hours, if reservoir is under the low mark, top up with coolant, otherwise you are done!
20- Put the side vent with dzus fastener back, clean up any spills and wipe fairing clean.
Dispose of used coolant at parts store.
As Russ says; "This is how I do it, you may have other options and that's perfectly fine" with 2 years of use and 10,000 miles fluid was crystal clear, no need to mess with flushing or adding distilled water, removing hoses etc. Again this is my opinion.
Judging by the amount used, I feel with this method 85-90% of the coolant was replaced.
Cheers!
Daniel
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 11:29 PM
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Yes you can do it however you wish... you are seeing a little more air than I'm used to if your reservoir level ends up in the middle. My only caution is do one more heat cycle and let it cool down (overnight is better). The second may purge more air, and the level in the reservoir may be a tad low. Get it warmed up a third time and top up the reservoir so you have the max available (my preference). This time it should end up at max or slightly below.
I usually underfill the rad a bit, start the engine and run until the thermostat opens, you can see it circulating over the rad fins... which should purge more of the free air. Then the coolant starts to expand and time to quickly top up and get the rad cap on. Most times I overfill the reservoir by 1/2-3/4" and it ends up being at max or slightly below.
I usually do the coolant change at a valve check, and use a premixed 5 year long life coolant, then you can do it at future valve checks.... the antifreeze doesn't wear out, but the corrosion inhibitors get used up..... you can check with a voltmeter if you do a Youtube search. I have seen coolant in FJR's after 5 years that is still good.
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 11:58 PM
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Nice write up ! I made notes for future coolant change !

I have a 2014 FJR low miles shall I be changing coolant. What is the interval for coolant change on Gen III

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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kukablack View Post
Nice write up ! I made notes for future coolant change !

I have a 2014 FJR low miles shall I be changing coolant. What is the interval for coolant change on Gen III
Manual states to replace coolant every two years.
Even with low miles, if you follow this schedule, you do not need to mess flushing with distilled water, unplugging hoses, etc.
You definitely do not need to remove the side fairings for this job either.
"The solution to pollution is dilution"
YMMV
Cheers,
Daniel

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 01:41 AM
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If you don't wash out (I use an old bottle brush) your overflow reservoir it will become cloudy over time and will be difficult to see through to check coolant level. I remove mine each time but I think every other coolant change would be sufficient.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 08:36 AM
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Is that coolant truly one of the older style 2 year coolants.... I'm a doubter, but you can check it with a voltmeter to see what "reserve" you have on the corrosion inhibitors. I know some have gone 4 years before a valve check, coolant looked OK if that means anything, but I'd rather replace it with a known 5 year/long life coolant at some point.
Coolant itself does not degrade, it is very environmentally unfriendly to dispose of. I always take mine to the local hazardous waste center and clearly mark it.

Ray
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 10:02 AM
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Coolant wears out via heat cycles.
If you had coolant in a bike for two years and it never ran, coolant would be virtually as new.

I do as Rayzerman. Change coolant at valve check intervals.


No need to shake bike. Filling very slowly gives best chance to expel air.



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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 10:21 AM
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Coolant! These bikes have coolant?!? Hmmmm, now which coolant should I use??!!!?? LOLOL

To borrow a line from another thread: And just like that, it turned into a coolant thread..... LOLOL

Nice write up Daniel, well done.

- Jim,
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbentnail View Post
If you don't wash out (I use an old bottle brush) your overflow reservoir it will become cloudy over time and will be difficult to see through to check coolant level. I remove mine each time but I think every other coolant change would be sufficient.
Agree with above.
My bike is virtually new and the reservoir was crystal clear when I wiped the outside, but your point is well taken.
Also did coolant change on my Suzuki SV1000, did remove the reservoir for a thorough cleaning, the bottle brush trick works a treat, especially if you use white vinegar with water 50:50, then rinse several times.
Daniel

Daniel
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Joe View Post
Coolant wears out via heat cycles.
If you had coolant in a bike for two years and it never ran, coolant would be virtually as new.

I do as Rayzerman. Change coolant at valve check intervals.


No need to shake bike. Filling very slowly gives best chance to expel air.



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Not “shake“ but gently just “swing” the bike side to side, you will hear the gurgling...
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Daniel
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