Stator replacement - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Stator replacement

Anything hard about stator replacement
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark in SJ View Post
Anything hard about stator replacement
Should be fairly straight forward. Its comes off with the cover. Maybe need to replace gasket if you tear it. Torque bolts to spec when re-assembling.

Kinda rare thing to go bad on modern bikes. How did you determine it needs replacement? Is it not putting out anything, or ohmmeter testing shows it open or shorted?

I would pull it and inspect for a pinched/bad wire that could possibly be fixed before ordering a new one.

'14 FJR1300ES
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 12:19 AM
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I don't believe I've heard of an FJR needing a stator..... and the mofset regulator is a good thing. Like Neal says, maybe check it out further. Are you sure it's not charging or do you perhaps have a funky battery.....

Ray
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 01:05 AM
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Howdy. Welcome to the forum.

What year bike? Why are you changing it?

Have you checked the stator?

Disconnect the stator coupler. You should see three white wires. You will need a DMM (digital multimeter) to check the resistance between each pair of wires. For a Series II or III FJR, you should measure around .13 to .19 ohms. All three should be about the same. A Series I bike will read a little higher.

Then check between any pin and chassis ground. Meter should read OPEN.

Then reconnect everything and check the voltage regulator. If the voltage regulator is good, when the engine is running at 5000 rpm, you should read around 14 volts across the battery.

Suggest you got to [TOOLS] -> [User CP] and addyour bike to your profile. When you have problems, it can make a difference.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 07:44 AM
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It should kick out 14 volts even at fast idle.........

Ray
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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It is a 2005 with abs. I just put a new battery in it and battery went dead in 4 months. Got it jumped and ran it for 20 minutes and battery wouldnt restart it right after shut off. Took battery to batteries plus and they cbaeged and tested it under load. It was fine. So I'm assuming the stator is bad. I will use multimeter to do the recommended checks. Thanks, this was the feedback I was looking for.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2020, 04:49 AM
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I'm having a similar issue, was the stator at fault in the end, or was it something else?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2020, 07:21 AM
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Letting a battery sit for a month or more isn't good without a battery tender hooked up.. the bike has a parasitic draw to keep clocks, etc. powered up. Once a battery gets down to 12.5 volts, it is at 50% charge, lots don't realize that. FJR's like a fresh battery, so take care of it.
Running for 20 minutes is not going to properly recharge a low battery. Slow longer charge is better.

Stator checks as recommended by John will prove stator is OK, they don't fail on these bikes... common issues are poor connections to the regulator, check those connectors. Gen 1 did not have as good a regulator as later FJR's, but rarely do they fail. For an upgrade, find a used genuine Shindengen FH020 off a later Yamaha... FJR, FJ-09, etc. I believe the connectors are the same on Gen1, but check (there are connectors available... Roadster Cycle).

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2020, 08:58 AM
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Battery state-of-charge vs voltage is a guessing game because there are many other variables such as temperature, battery chemistry, and load. Published tables are of open-circuit voltage, the battery unconnected for hours prior. Necessary for repeatable measurements.

Figure 2 here is a good example showing 50% SOC (State Of Charge) to be from 12.2V to 12.5V.

A vampire load of only 10 mA for hours on end will result in a lower open circuit voltage for the same SOC. This is the situation for a battery installed in FJR. The voltage will be lower by some undefined amount, but the SOC will be same.

Using the figure above 12.5V worst case is 50% SOC, but could very well be 70%. Or higher if one considers the battery is not open-circuit. Or something else if battery temperature is not 68F. As with most things in engineering, it is messy.

Batteries have a lot of capacitance, meaning they act like a capacitor. Has extra voltage if recently charged. Is usually best to check the voltage with headlights on. The load from headlights sucks the weak capacitive charge off the battery.

SOC vs voltage tables are good for getting an initial feel for battery charge but the best thing is to have a voltmeter to watch and learn its patterns just as you watch the engine temperature. Only get concerned when it behaves differently.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2020, 11:19 AM
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Stators and voltage regulators and rectifiers usually die from poor connections. Check all your connections while you are at it.
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