New to me 05 fjr smells super rich - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-12-2019, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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New to me 05 fjr smells super rich

First sports bike and i love it. After putting 400 miles on it i have noticed a potential problem. It smells super rich at idle, even after its at operating temp. Ive run seafoam through a tank and no change. The bike sat at the dealer for 8 months so i figured bad gas. But now i think one of the cylinders is loading up on fuel. Above 3000 rpms and on acceleration it does great. But at small throttle openings and cruising it has a wierd bumble. I have put the bike away til i sort it out for fear of washing out a cylinder. I researched for a competent yami mech and got an estimate for plugs t/b sync valve set and 45k
Mile service for 1000 bucks! I am a diesel mechanic so im no stranger to wrenching on stuff but this bike may as well be a space craft. But to save 1000 i think im going to take a crack at it. Where should i start? The yamaha shop is 1.5 hours away so kinda leary on riding it that far. Where should i start?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-12-2019, 10:28 AM
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Howdy. Welcome to the forum.

If you are already an engine mechanic, an FJR should be no problem. There are plenty of on-line resources.

45,000 miles is a low mileage figure for an FJR. OTOH, it is a 20 year old bike. Now, I'm just a semi-competent shade tree mechanic and I do not have a lot of experience with FJRs as I am only on my first one, but here is what I would do:
Pick up a shop manual.
Flush the gas tank.
Change all the fluids, especially if you do not have a documented service history.
Look for vacuum leaks.
Other than access, changing plugs and doing a TBS present no difficulties.
Valve clearance is generally not a problem except for access.

Oh, and you might want to change the cam chain tensioner. If that fails, you will probably lunch the engine.

And stand by to hear from the real experts.

Time spent looking at motorcycles, even Harleys, is never wasted.

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Last edited by JohnC; 12-12-2019 at 10:30 AM.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-12-2019, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply! Any good source on parts? Ive read through alot of these posts. So far ive only found cheapcycleparts.com. I thought of replacing coils as well as 02 sensor but my
god 312 dollars for it. Coils 145 each. The bike also has a engine gaurd aftermarket that looks like it will make taking lower fairing off near impossible. Can all above repairs be made with just gas tank removal. I guess the manual is the first buy.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-12-2019, 02:52 PM
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Damned diesel mechanics, LOL. Welcome by the way. Start with the simple stuff without spending a ton of money...... sounds to me like it's idling and running OK, just you suspect it's rich?? Clarify if different...
That old girl should have new plugs. Take a look at the old ones, the blacker one is the richer one, if there's a richer one. While there, remove (unscrew and pull) the spark plug adapters off the wires, trim off 1/4", spread the strands and reinstall the adapters... nice fresh connections.

Remove vacuum hose from MAP sensor, the black thing on top of the left half of your throttle bodies... remove the two screws and the electrical connector... ensure the hose is clear of any build-up crud and the plastic port itself.... don't go poking too deep, don't want to damage the diaphram. All clear, reassemble.
Siphon out the old fuel, put in fresh with a couple ounces of Seafoam. Fire it up now and go for a ride..... let us know if you still have a problem when at operating temp and idling.........
If you're a mechanic you can do all the service yourself..... yep, get a service manual... there are information threads about valve checks, etc.


Save your money on coils and 02 sensor... I don't think you'll need to go there. Coils especially, if it's running, you're good. None of that other stuff the Yammy guy is going to do is going to solve a rich problem. Best put your location in your profile, maybe I can direct you to a tech day near you.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-13-2019, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much for the input! I will try not to overthink it. Downfall of being a mechanic is hearing something abnormal and going through all the horrible scenarios in my head. Going to do as suggested and start simple.What made me park the bike was after i pulled off at a gas station after a 30 minute ride i jumped on it and hit the starter. Man it sure sounded like one of the 4 pistons had more to squeeze. Im very familiar with hydrolock when my big diesels bleed fuel past an injector tip while not running. Overfueling then washes all the lube from the cylinder and toast. That happens quite fast on a big ass motor turning max 2200 rpm. I could only imagine what happens at 8000. Thanks again yall! Central texas btw.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-13-2019, 08:10 AM
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The injectors on an FJR are individually opened and duration decided by the ECU based on several parameters, I've never heard of an FJR having a leaky injector/fuel wash to the degree you're thinking. The FJR has an enriched mixture when first started cold, which should return to normal when at operating temp (or when the fast idle cycle is over). The exhausts have a catalytic converter, so initially may smell bad, but so do most gasoline powered cars.
Anyway, interested to hear what the condition of your existing plugs are and just checking things over.
I don't know of a tech day going on anywhere near Texas... VA the closest.

Ray
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-13-2019, 10:35 AM
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Or maybe some genius played around with the CO settings. Have you checked the fuel economy? Maybe needs a new O2 sensor. Besides plugs I would send out the injectors to be cleaned and flow tested, costs about $100 and then you know what you got. Would also do a throttle body sync and maybe consider removal and cleaning of throttle bodies. Oh, and while you're at it since you are replacing spark plugs do a compression test and when you do it don't forget to have the throttle all the way open like I did once or twice and then had to do it over again, grrrr... While you are under the gas tank check and inspect all hose clamps and take note of any thing that looks modified or jerry rigged.

You do all of the above and then you have a base line established and you know what you got. Used bikes can be a pain because you never know what the previous genius or geniuses have done.

Also, just install a new air filter. I guess what I'm describing is a complete tune up. The Yamaha shop manual is a very well written FSM that certain manufacturers (BMW comes to mind) could stand to imitate.

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Last edited by JamesW; 12-13-2019 at 10:42 AM.
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-13-2019, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Ordered service/repair manual this am. Ive read posts where people can change settings via the dash? Is this something equipped on my 05? The dash looks very simple. Have not figured fuel economy. Im always in the throttle lol. It just loves it so much. Kinda bummed as its new to me and I have it parked until i do all thats mentioned above. Dont see so many sport bikes around here. Mostly harley guys. Ironically i wanted the fjr over a harley so i wouldnt have to work on it all the time lol. I will let you guys know how it turns out!
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Just got my manual. The valve clearance check would make sense as a starting point. My question is, how common is it to have to reshim? Are most modern high rev bikes like this? Im used to lashing valves and turning an adjuster to set In diesel or automotive. After reading the procedure for the fjr i Thought it was interesting yet simple way to set valve lash when the cam lobe is in contact with the valve stem. Yet tedious as the cams have to be removed to reshim. Wierd.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-31-2019, 12:01 AM
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Very common for high performers like this to have bucket and shim technology. The valve clearances almost always get smaller rather than bigger, but this wear is very very slow.... chances are you will not have to reshim at 45k, but also best to get that first valve check out of the way so you know where you are.

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