Just a FYI Gen 3 valve check - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Just a FYI Gen 3 valve check

Finally got around to doing the 2nd valve clearance check on my 14 (way fast ) (rootbeer)


First check done at 55000km (about 31000miles) found all in spec . Ex on upper end of spec and intake on lower end of spec.


Second check at 103000km (about 64000miles) found all in spec. IN FACT all were exactly the same as the first check,

Note: Oil used for all of 2nd interval mileage was RT 15/40.


Iridium plugs installed, and valve cover gasket still original and showing no signs of deterioration.


Next check will be 200k km.

2014 FJR1300 B(AEO) #290 "Rootbeer metalic"
1999 C10 ( Sold May/16....Goodbye old friend)
2015 DR650

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019, 10:55 PM
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Thatís an excellent result, thank you for sharing. I hope to find similar when I get to mine...sitting at 48,000 km right now so slightly overdue by the book. Looks like a springtime job for me.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Joe View Post
Note: Oil used for all of 2nd interval mileage was RT 15/40.
What is ďRT 15/40Ē?

Oil doesnít matter for valve wear. The point of wear is between valve and cylinder head. When this wears the valve is higher when closed, the stem closer to camshaft, the gap gets smaller. Smaller until the valve can no longer close.

Quality of the air filter is one of the strongest contributors to valve wear or lack thereof.

Your post seems to have been bitten by the extra line feed problem. Two blank lines were only one was desired. Edit in preview often deletes new lines. Only trial and error seems to work.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 06:51 AM
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The root beer ones are way the fastest for sure.
Done many valve checks over the years and while I only have a data base in my head, I would generally say valve clearances change only .001 smaller over time. My latest philosophy based on all that experience is do that first valve check at the recommended mileage or even an extended mileage out to say 35k-ish. However, take the opportunity to re-shim everything to 70% of max, and you'll likely never need another valve check... but the anal in me says do one at 100k. Worst case, valve clearances should only "wear" back to nominal.

Also take the opportunity to do a good throttle body sync, as changing valve clearances will affect the sync (moreso prior to Gen3). Now all cylinders have identical valve clearances and TB sync. Using only the butt dyno, the bike does seem to run better too.
Of course, it helps that I have a fully stocked shim kit, but if you don't, do the check at some downtime (most of us call that winter) when you can take the time to order the shims you need. I get mine from RockyMountainATV, as they are available in quarter sizes so you can be fairly precise.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 12:09 PM
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I'll do mine again this winter, maybe just before the end of year. Mine were mostly middle of the road, and a few were at the edge of tight.

I hope to lap them all in perfectly.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 01:15 PM
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Iíve never heard of anyone reporting valves out of spec on an FJR at any miles. I was at my dealer this morning talking to the service manager and he told me me the same thing. Mine will not be out at the 26,000 mile service he said. But I am going to have it done because those are the only services Iím not doing myself. Itís the price Iíll pay to have the dealer thoroughly check my bike every 18 months or so.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjscsix View Post
I’ve never heard of anyone reporting valves out of spec on an FJR at any miles. I was at my dealer this morning talking to the service manager and he told me me the same thing. Mine will not be out at the 26,000 mile service he said. But I am going to have it done because those are the only services I’m not doing myself. It’s the price I’ll pay to have the dealer thoroughly check my bike every 18 months or so.
I can't say the same thing, however, the number with .001" below minimum is very small (I can count them on the fingers of one hand).... there was one '05 (around 50k) that had one exhaust valve at zero clearance, which I chalk up to somebody's error of shim choice somewhere along the line.
The zero clearance one had issues of poor running on the offending cylinder (valve not fully seating)... even if your clearance is .001" low, nothing bad is going to happen, but you do want to get it back in range at some point.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 04:41 PM
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There's two sides to every coin. I do mine completely opposite to what Ray does. I set my clearances to near minimum.

I understand the logic of probably never having to change a shim again but I view it differently:

- I check my valves regularly and will continue to do so;
- I don't mind re-shimmimg if needed.

Minimum clearance equates to maximum valve opening. I'd rather have that than not do the maintenance.

Russ
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 08:58 AM
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The total amount of cam lift or valve opening is ~8mm (~0.30") excluding tolerances, so total lift with chosen clearance isn't really a factor. To get into the finer art of tuning for squeezing out every ounce of performance... the valve clearance will only affect the actual point of when the cam starts the opening and closing of the valve, or the total duration the valve is open. The race tuner guys will design cams with their desired duration and lift, that's a whole science I know little about.
From the pics below you can guess when the valve will start to open/close as the cam rotates. The second pic is where you're supposed to position the cams to check your clearances.








Ray
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 10:16 AM
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Great pics BTW. I believe if a person does his maintenance regularly, re-shimming if needed is no big deal & I don't understand the trepidation except if he fails to use the timing marks depending instead on sockets and zip ties. If a person pays someone to do it then the payer has no say in the clearance setting and thus must continue to pay regularly to ensure it's constantly correct. So I do my own, set to minimum and check again in 35K or so miles. For me that's once per 3 yrs, I can live with that.

I do, and have always, recommended the .25 Pro-X valve shims in .025mm increments instead of the "standard" .05mm increment that most kits come in.

Russ
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