FJR Owners Forum banner

Warming the engine before riding.

13K views 107 replies 39 participants last post by  the Ferret 
#1 ·
Hi all

Only ridden it once. Awful weather here in the UK at the moment so I’m just using the ST1300 until things dry up a bit.

What do you chaps do with starting and riding. The ST manual states idle until one bar shows and then it’s ready to ride. What do you do With the FJR?
 
#7 ·
I always wait until the display changes from Lo to a digital temp. I don't think catastrophic things would immediately happen if I didn't, but I am never in such a hurry as to need to ride off on a cold engine.
I do this also...it's probably not necessary but it doesn't take long at all to wait for a little bit of heat to build. I avoid application of heavy throttle until the engine temperature is stabilized at it's normal point...maybe 5-10 mins or so of riding depending on the ambient temperature...again, probably not necessary.
 
#3 ·
When it comes off cold idle and the rpm drops to normal, it's ready to go. I wouldn't go all hooligan until it properly warms up to operating temp.........
If you have the Ivan flash, this will take longer to come down off fast idle......
 
#10 ·
When it comes off cold idle and the rpm drops to normal, it's ready to go. I wouldn't go all hooligan until it properly warms up to operating temp.........
This. I start it, leisurely put on helmet, etc. and ride off.
 
#4 ·
I start my bike before I put my helmet and gloves on. Then back it out of my garage, hit the garage door opener, and ride off. Approximately 2 minutes of idle time, regardless of outside temp. Leaving work, I unlock the trunk, start the bike, helmet and gloves, latch trunk, ride off. As as it runs long enough to idle down it is sufficiently warmed.
 
#6 ·
Warm weather I fire it up and make sure the idle is stable and go. Getting out of the driveway it's always a maze (danged kids and their parking) and beyond that it downhill to the main road. When it turns colder, I let it warm up a bit more but then its the same. Downhill and out of the valley.


None of the neighbors claim to hate me because of the bikes.
 
#9 ·
There will be a lot of answers to this with no empirical data to show whether they make a difference or not. I believe it makes no difference whether you let it warm up or not before riding. But I agree with others who say you should not run it hard until it is warmed up.

BUT, what really matters in my opinion is oil temperature. I learned in my Corvettes that had oil temperature readouts, actual degrees not just a needle, that the oil temperature takes at least twice as long as coolant temperature to come up to what would be considered a normal operating temperature.
 
#18 ·
Oil at operating temp is the true gage of proper engine temp and when you can be sure that everything is properly warmed/expanded with out operating worries,,,,, but being that few vehicles actually monitor engine oil temp you gotta use what you have, like others have stated I wait for the motor to come off of high idle before riding off but keep the throttle use “light” until i’m sure it’s fully warmed.

We’d probably be having all kinds of threads and discussions if we did have the ability to monitor the oil temp and real “oil threads” and vehement discussions about proper oil temps. I own a couple of the Honda cbx air cooled 6 cylinder’s and have seen several of these discussions when someone puts an oil temp gauge on their cbx and freaks out when they see how high it is, usually in the 300-325f range which is really high & near the oils “flash” point. As a reference our fjr’s being water cooled, the oil temp probably runs in the 200-240f range.

Anyhow now it’s officially an oil thread 😱,,,,, so wait for the cold start revs to come off of high idle and keep the rev-load minimal for the first couple of miles and you should be good, nothing special at all.
 
#20 ·
Oil at operating temp is the true gage of proper engine temp and when you can be sure that everything is properly warmed/expanded with out operating worries.
This.

Depending on ambient temps, you can idle your bike long enough for coolant temps to hit 200+ (enough for the radiator fan to come on) and ride off, thinking you're good.

The rest of the bike is still cold and you'll risk premature wear or even crashing (cold tires).

Start it and ride easy until coolant temps are normal. Then a few more miles should get the engine oil warmed up. I miss oil pressure gauges as those are the best indicator on whether or not the motor is ready to get beat on.
 
#19 ·
AE and COLD weather starts

One a COLD day best let a AE warm up for until several bars show on gauge and have it on center stand so you can put it in 1st gear for a minute or two to warm the clutch after several bars on gauge. . If not when COLD and OFF fast idle most AE riders experience a slight "shudder" from a stop. After it's warmed up butter smooth. I have one of Ray's ABS switches connected to the YCCS, mounted in glove box so I can adjust the clutch. I have tried ALL the settings in hopes of not having to wait 5 minutes or more for the clutch basket or plates to warm up for winter riding.. Summer time in Texas usually this not a issue. Hope this helps any new AE owners. One AE owner took it to a dealer and they replaced several expensive parts and still did it, so I posted. I read the newer AE in Europe has larger holes for oil circulation. Opps another oil post lol
 
#22 ·
I start the bike (garaged, so never really cold) and drive off immediately. The first couple of miles are downhill small streets, so 2nd or 3rd gear with very little throttle. Once I reach the freeway it's ready to go - and I accelerate to 80 mph in a few seconds :) - a very nice way to wake up
 
#23 ·
Over the years I've read of misadventures from many people on many marquees. They usually go something along the lines of letting their bike warm up before taking off*. That's why I start mine and let it idle long enough for helmet and gloves. Then it warms the rest of the way and I ride easily. Letting idle doesn't warm up all the bits that need it until you start moving. So why not get moving?


* Then getting distracted and letting it run too long and either there's a fire or some other kind of melt down. I'd rather avoid the opportunity, so that's why I don't.
 
#24 ·
Over the years I've read of misadventures from many people on many marquees. They usually go something along the lines of letting their bike warm up before taking off*. That's why I start mine and let it idle long enough for helmet and gloves. Then it warms the rest of the way and I ride easily. Letting idle doesn't warm up all the bits that need it until you start moving. So why not get moving?

* Then getting distracted and letting it run too long and either there's a fire or some other kind of melt down. I'd rather avoid the opportunity, so that's why I don't.
Yep. I've seen more than one bike (including my own) roll off the stand while idling on the sidestand. I just don't make a habit of it. It'll warm just as well while moving. Most of us probably live somewhere where we can ride slowly for a while anyway.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bounce
#25 ·
There isn't any problem starting up and go, but you will be on fast idle, clutch may drag a touch at first when cold.... as long as you can handle a little faster in first gear when you take off, there's no real wrong way, just take it easy until it is warmed up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2GENAE
#26 ·
I don't warm up at all. Fully geared and on the bike when I hit the ignition, and then mosey down the road in 1st/2nd. Never gave it a thought. Coolant is usually at op temp by the time I hit the on-ramp, unless like this morning where I hit all the green lights. I am fortunate to have a mile long merge lane again.
 
#30 ·
If you run Amsoil, you dont ever need to warm it up .. You can just start that bugger and red line it immediately even on the coldest winter day ...

Not like those other inferior oils ... With most other oils, you really should never start the bike without warming the crankcase with a blow dryer and to be really safe, never start it at all ... Its just too darn risky.

Keep her parked and measurable wear will be reduced significantly ...

Sorry, can't resist. It was about time for an Amsoil guy and no one stepped forward ...
 
#34 ·
If you run Amsoil, you dont ever need to warm it up .. You can just start that bugger and red line it immediately even on the coldest winter day ...

Not like those other inferior oils ... With most other oils, you really should never start the bike without warming the crankcase with a blow dryer and to be really safe, never start it at all ... Its just too darn risky.

Keep her parked and measurable wear will be reduced significantly ...

Sorry, can't resist. It was about time for an Amsoil guy and no one stepped forward ...
>:)>:)>:)
 
#36 ·
Or you could be like my neighbor. He lets his Honda Vee something idle for 25+ minutes! I'm not sure if he does it to drive me crazy or if does it to announce to the whole neighborhood "look at me everyone I'm going for a motorcycle ride" ! Luckily for me it's only a couple of times a year during the summer ....
 
#37 ·
Did you mean a VTX. If that has straight pipes, they are LOUD!!! Mine has stock and I wouldn't have it any other way. I liked you assessment as "look at me everyone...." of you neighbor, I can never wrap my head around why people do that stuff?

Just think of how many times YOUR life has been saved by your neighbor's loud pipes!!:wink2::laugh:
 
#40 ·
push bike out side.
start bike
listen for anything out of the ordinary
walk into garage grab the tire gauge
check air pressure
put everything back
grab the helmet and windex
clean visor head lamp and other lenses
put on gear
make sure all essentials are packed in tank bag.
turn on music in helmet
listen to music and set gps for Roam or destination
close garage
carve down 2 mile first road to try and warm up tires.
pull over for fuel
go to the mountains
 
#44 ·
The need for "warming" an engine to "operating temperature" prior to use went away with the advent of multi-weight oils and electronic fuel injection. Old habits and old wives tales just die hard.

Even in the days of carburetors, there was only the need to "warm-up" enough to turn off the choke/enrichment circuit without stumbling.

Once the FI goes from "high" idle to "standard" idle (meaning it is now using the O2 sensor for feedback instead of the base fuel map), it is ready to go. On my FJR, this is usually no longer than 30 seconds. Granted, you shouldn't be banging gears at redline until the engine coolant temperature has stabilized. But there is no need for minutes worth of idling before you pull out of your driveway.
 
#45 ·
Maybe so but they call it closed circuit in the obd2 field. They even called it that when I went to school down in florida. Either way I always let my fluids warm up. Truck car bike work van dirt bikes. Its a good practice to take your time and examine everything before twisting the grip. I like to take my time for the start up to make sure nothing starts to over flow and that I am now comfy in my helmet gloves and that my cinched just right. OCD is fun you should embrace it!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top