New Throttle Cables - removing throttle bodies - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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New Throttle Cables - removing throttle bodies

Hello!

Installing an MCCruise on my 2005. The throttle cable that the grip pulls for acceleration gets rerouted to a "Cable Control Interface Unit" (CCIU) where the cruise actuator can also "pull" to maintain speed. Both/either of those pull on an additional cable that runs from the CCIU to the throttle bodies where the original grip cable was attached.

The install went fine until the end, when I needed to adjust the throttle cables. For some reason, the plastic sleeves on my throttle cables were pulled out of the crimped metal ends where they meet the throttle bodies. That left me with insufficient play to adjust.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/RU7CoTUtbWZRXFxw7

One thought was to shave the plastic and see if I can insert the trimmed end into the crimped metal tubes. However then I'm nervous about getting a piece of shaved plastic in there and binding the cable. So I embarked on replacing the throttle cables, guided by my Haynes. I am at the point where I'm supposed to pull off the throttle bodies. I'm wondering if this is a brute-strength-and-awkwardness thing, or have I missed something.

First, I can't get the intake housing out of the frame. It's too wide at the bottom. It looks like I'd have to remove the subframe that runs under the seat, or the throttle bodies, to get it out.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/CgMigLepS6Sb6gsE6

So there isn't a lot of space.

I've loosened the clamps, but pulling on the throttle bodies doesn't seem to budge anything. I'm not prying with anything, yet. There aren't good hand holds.

Pull harder? Pry?

Fallback - leave the MCCruise harness, switch, etc. installed, put the original throttle cable back in place on the throttle bodies, leave the MCCruise replacement cable and CCIU off. That should allow me to ride, but no working cruise.
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2016 Yamaha FRJ1300ES getting set up!
2005 Yamaha FJR1300AT soon for sale
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 07:55 PM
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Somebody's put foam on your airbox, that's not OEM... not that it matters much....
The airbox is first pried off the throttle bodies (after loosening the clamps of course), undo the crankcase vent hose top middle, and be aware there is also a drain hose at the bottom slightly left, which has a filter in it. It may hold you "down", as it is captured down below. No harm pulling it up, may take some doing, and when you put it back in, no harm leaving the bottom end uncaptured.

Not a lot of room, it is a tight squeeze, but pull the front of the airbox up and you should be home free.

To get the throttle bodies off, those boots have grooves. Loosen the clamps and you will have to pry, I usually pry against the upper engine mount each side, but start on one side, say left, so the left two boots disengage say 1/4" out of the grooves, then move to the other side.

Before reinstall, I either wipe a thin film of silicone grease on the boots or give them a wee shot of silicone spray, otherwise you'll have a beatch of a time... you will have to pry the TB's back on to get them seated in the grooves before you snug up the clamps. As long as everything is lined up, it's not that bad.

Airbox goes in back side down and in first, then manipulate the boots on, hook up your hoses....... a little brute force and you'll be good.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 04:40 PM
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I replaced my throttle cables without removing throttle bodies. Why in the world would you do that?!? I went to the Harbor Freight store down the street and got 1 each of long straight and long curve nosed hemostats. Easy-peasy!!

ETA: they call them "locking clamp pliers"
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 05:20 PM
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While you have those TB's out, give them a good cleaning. A lot of crud accumulates around the butterflies.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Before reinstall, I either wipe a thin film of silicone grease on the boots or give them a wee shot of silicone spray, otherwise you'll have a beatch of a time... you will have to pry the TB's back on to get them seated in the grooves before you snug up the clamps. As long as everything is lined up, it's not that bad.

Airbox goes in back side down and in first, then manipulate the boots on, hook up your hoses....... a little brute force and you'll be good.
Haynes says motor oil for getting the TB back in the boots. I expect oil is no better/worse than silicone.

I'm going to try the clamping pliers first, though. No curved ones on the Harbor Freight site, so Amazon...
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Somebody's put foam on your airbox, that's not OEM...

....not to derail this, but my '05 has the same foam on the airbox.
I guess it's there to dampen that mighty intake roar or ?
Mr. BR
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 09:56 PM
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You may be quite right..... just going by my '06 project bike that had no foam... maybe they deleted it for Gen2?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludwig61 View Post
Haynes says motor oil for getting the TB back in the boots. I expect oil is no better/worse than silicone.

I'm going to try the clamping pliers first, though. No curved ones on the Harbor Freight site, so Amazon...
Hi-jacking some more, but some insight on why Haynes, which produces more car manuals than motorcycle manuals, would possibly recommend oil over silicone.

GM found in research back in the 80's that silicone can cause issues with oxygen sensors, of which most modern motorcycles now have.

From SAE report: "Poisoning of Zirconia Exhaust Oxygen Sensors by Silica Paper 860478"

"The performance of Zirconia Exhaust Oxygen Sensors can be altered by several poisons. Silica produced by the oxidation of volatile silicones is one of the most severe poisons and can affect both the exhaust side of the sensor and the air reference side."

I personally have no issues with using silicone as gasketing, as it works very well in high temperature applications like sealing engine cases. And it works very well as a spray lubricant and keeping things like door seals pliable. But I wouldn't use it on anything on the air intake parts.

Some people have made mods to the fuel delivery that eliminates the use of the O2 sensor by disconnecting the closed loop and running off a fixed fuel map. In those cases, silicone in your intake becomes less of a concern.

Times change, and maybe newer O2 sensors are no longer prone to this, but for anyone with a stock closed loop fuel system, be aware of what goes through your engine.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 07:50 AM
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Agree Neal, nothing wrong with using oil at all, it may be preferable. And it's not as if I smeared silicone anywhere "inside", just on the lip where it would get wiped back as you installed the TB's.
Certain RTV gasket makers are now labelled safe for sensors.....
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