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Lubing Steering Bearings Question

2K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  postoak 
#1 ·
I know many have done this procedure but since I'm German, I'd like to overthink this: the biggest pain to lubing the bearings seems to be getting them reseated after the lower bearing is out of its seat by raising the frame from the triple tree. Has anyone found a way to keep things aligned during this process? I was thinking that maybe by immobilizing the wheel (wheel chocks?) might help slightly? I need to get the lube part done soon and I'm looking for time saving tips. I did retorque the bearings at 8000 miles, so that part of the process is familiar to me.
 
#2 ·
Just take the nuts and bearing off the top. Tie the front wheel to the back or centerstand because it will try to roll forward and fall out when the nuts are removed.

There is no magic to putting it back together. It self-centers.

If the OE seal stays with the frame then the bearing will stay up. Guessing it would be hard to reach up there if steering stem is even partially still in the frame. But brake lines will prevent fully removing it. If you take the whole front end apart you might as well drive the races out and replace with tapered bearings. And different seals for the tapered.

Top and bottom bearings and seals are identical. Helps to be able to see what you are dealing with on top because it is much harder to see the same underneath.
 
#3 ·
Many thanks, N4HHE!

I am only planning to relube the OE bearings and torque them down. I have no issues with their performance at this point nor do I want to actually remove the forks/triple tree completely at this point. But I will definitely look at your suggestions.
 
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#4 ·
Just remembered brake lines are run through a bracket bolted to the bottom of the bottom bridge ("triple tree"). Held with one 8mm or 10mm head bolt in the center. The two to either side don't hold it in. And for some reason its a bugger to get at and was much tighter than it should have been. I don't know how far you can drop the front end without unbolting this bracket.
 
#5 ·
I can't remember the brake line bracket either, undo or not undo... but all I have ever done is have a jack under the headers, raise the front end until the lower triple tree drops and exposes the bearings enough to get your hands in there and grease the lower bearing from above. Slowly drop the front end until it is close to re-engaging, put the upper together to keep things centered and lower the front end some more until the bearing seats.
When doing your final torque, go a bit higher than the 13 ft. lbs. spec... more like 15-18. Rotate the handlebars to ensure the grease is distributed and not affecting the torque.
 
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#6 ·
Is greasing the bearings on the maintenance schedule? I can't believe the bearings need regreasing at low mileage like 8000.
 
#9 ·
Mine didn't make it to 16,000 before the wobble started. Then no amount of new tires, grease or preload adjustment made any significant difference. Tapered bearings cured.
 
#12 ·
Some never have the wobble.

All-Balls is the only source in the USA for retrofit tapered bearing kit. Generic bearings are widely available (is a standard size) but no one has found source for the necessary seals.
 
#11 ·
I'm in the camp of properly adjusted early in FJR life, they're fine. My preference is a little more torque than the 13 ft. lbs. Yamaha recommends. Tapered rollers are quite robust, but there may be other causes to the wobble, like tire choice and wear patterns mostly. Certain tread patterns will track a little differently over tar snakes and other road conditions, e.g., I wouldn't use a PR3/PR4 front, nor am I at all opposed to a different brand front than rear.
Lube every 16000 is overkill, but that may be several years for some. Lube well early and you'll not likely have to do it again for a very long time, but the initial lube is insufficient, but lithium greases tend to dry out over time.... perhaps use a synthetic.
 
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