Very little brake pedal (rear) - Page 3 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 2mountains View Post
As far as stopping by.....yeah well it is only 1,100 miles as I live in central Illinois. Appreciate it though.
We all ride FJRs. 1100 miles is . . . in the neighborhood.

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 09:14 PM
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I'd stick with DOT4 and flush annually.. you won't have to worry about boiling.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 08:45 AM
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I'd like to add my .02 Recently my rear brake pedal was acting weird, with a bad feel... It turned out to be a very dry pivot shaft, the shaft with the splines that the pedal mounts to. I was able to work some lube into the hole without taking it all apart by just moving the shaft back and forth... Wow what a difference that made! The pedal feel is very precise now. I repeatedly apologize to my motorcycle for overlooking that aspect of maintenance...
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Storm-64 View Post
I'd like to add my .02 Recently my rear brake pedal was acting weird, with a bad feel... It turned out to be a very dry pivot shaft, the shaft with the splines that the pedal mounts to. I was able to work some lube into the hole without taking it all apart by just moving the shaft back and forth... Wow what a difference that made! The pedal feel is very precise now. I repeatedly apologize to my motorcycle for overlooking that aspect of maintenance...
I disassembled, scotchbrite polished and reassembled with some YamaLube... That made a big difference, like you said.

I treated her to a warm bath, gentle towel dry, wax, and some additional lube...
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If its got teats or tires, your bound to have trouble with it...
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 05:21 AM
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Sounds very much like the same problem I had. I posted on 4/30/19 regarding this. My back brake works better than ever.

Bill P.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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We all ride FJRs. 1100 miles is . . . in the neighborhood.
Agree! Thanks
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Storm-64 View Post
I'd like to add my .02 Recently my rear brake pedal was acting weird, with a bad feel... It turned out to be a very dry pivot shaft, the shaft with the splines that the pedal mounts to. I was able to work some lube into the hole without taking it all apart by just moving the shaft back and forth... Wow what a difference that made! The pedal feel is very precise now. I repeatedly apologize to my motorcycle for overlooking that aspect of maintenance...
Yeah, had the same thing happen out in the middle of nowhere. Pull in to fuel up and someone pulled up to me and said my brake light was staying on. Turns out the pedal was sticking down a little, enough to activate the brake light. A little WD40 at the time and some further maintenance after back home. Unfortunately, it is going to be a little deeper than that and I have not got around to fixing yet because of lack of time.

Thanks.....!
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:59 AM
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Maybe what we need is a Practical Maintenance Schedule... kinda re-write of the Yamaha recommended service intervals. These brake, ground spider, etc. issues keep coming up over and over and are so preventable.

Ray
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:07 PM
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Maybe what we need is a Practical Maintenance Schedule... kinda re-write of the Yamaha recommended service intervals. These brake, ground spider, etc. issues keep coming up over and over and are so preventable.
IMHO people are too anal about the book-driven schedules and torque values for something like this to be valuable. If each person did his/her/its own based on the style, mileage, etc. that would be a good start.

I have also gotten a very good idea lately why there is NEPRT over yonder......

Russ
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 06:34 PM
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I'd also get a new piston and seal kit for the rear master cylinder. If the seal has perished fluid will bypass it and your pressures will equalise, ie fade. And check the cylinder walls are not corroded. It's a decade old, worth replacing anyway.
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