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post #21 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 07:07 PM
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Don't assume anything, know for sure that the pump is working properly, and give the cooling system a flush out and replace with new coolant, then do a pressure test on the system, cold, up to 15psi.

Personal experience, my 06 fjr, was overheating, no apparent reason, found the drive chain to the oil, water pumps was broken.

So check and be sure of your diagnosis, good luck, Alan.
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post #22 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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A little update.
It's pushing coolant into the overflow tank but doesn't seem to be sucking it back on cool down.
Also just before it goes to the fourth bar it makes a clunk sound. It'll do that once or twice then the fan kicks on and perhaps one more time after the fan is running. I'm not sure if it's air passing through the pump or the water pump sticking, chain noise etc.
Also both hoses,in and out of the pump, seem soft and not too hot to hold even though it's at five bars.
Hmmmm....

2004 FJR1300A
2017 Royal Enfield Continental GT 535
I ride bikes cause four wheels are much harder to lean🤪

Last edited by Rustedpalm; 08-17-2019 at 11:09 AM.
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post #23 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 12:42 PM
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RP,
From your earlier post: "Upon inspection one side of the rad neck is "buggered up" as if someone tried to pry the cap off maybe."


That must be fixed. If your radiator cap is not sealing properly, the system will not pressurize as engine gets up operating temp.

Once the system pressure exceeds the rating of the cap, it pushes coolant to the overflow tank... upon cool down, coolant is drawn back into the system.
If your cap is not sealing properly, this won't happen and it will just pull in outside air and not coolant from the tank.
I keep my coolant tank level right between the High and Low mark. At full temp, the tank level rises to the High mark....

AND, if the hoses from your pump aren't getting hot despite the 4-5 bars on your temp gauge, you may have a Thermostat problem (and they should be firm once under pressure).
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post #24 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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I did repair the rad neck. It's not leaking coolant anymore. Would a faulty cap keep the hoses from pressurising?
During one session I saw the coolant drop in the radiator instantly at about 4 bars so I assumed the thermostat opened up. Perhaps I'm wrong.

2004 FJR1300A
2017 Royal Enfield Continental GT 535
I ride bikes cause four wheels are much harder to lean🤪
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post #25 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 04:47 PM
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Yes, a faulty cap could indeed prevent the system from pressurizing (assuming no leaks elsewhere).
I found this photo and it shows the two seals that must work....this should help.
Small Inner Cap Seal is the one that keeps pressure in system and is spring-loaded (and rated for a certain PSI).
Coolant that bleeds past this smaller seal is then kept in place by the Outer Rad Cap seal, forcing it to the hose to the Coolant Tank.
The tiny round "button" in the middle of the small seal is a one-way valve that holds system pressure but allows coolant back IN from the coolant tank as system cools off and contracts.
All three of these items must be in good shape as well as their respective mating surfaces in the radiator neck....
I hope this helps!
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post #26 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Mr.B, yes that helps.
I put a new cap on today.
So I'm gonna approach this like a total newbie.

I filled the rad to just below the neck, I tilted the bike left and right a few times and got some air bubbles out and topped it off once again. I filled the expansion tank to the full mark. Start the bike with the rad cap off. Within 4-5 minutes the fluid expands up the neck it's now at 2 bars. As I give it a little throttle the coolant moved up and down some. At 3-4 bars the fan kicks in and the coolant drops down significantly. I add coolant back up to just below the neck. I twist the throttle again and the coolant ebbs and flows a small amount. Now it's at 5 bars and about 10-12 minutes. All the radiator hoses read about 155-165f with the infrared meter. I get an occasional gurgling into the tank. The hoses into and out of the pump are hot (165f) but still feel soft to me. At 15 minutes the sixth bar is flashing. I turn the bike off and after 5 minutes it's cooled down to 3 bars and the tank is now 1" over the full mark. At one point I squeezed the top hose on the pump and got an air bubble into the tank but only the one time.

At this point I'm letting her cool overnight, see if she pulls any coolant back, then take her for a test run tomorrow evening.

Unless anyone has a better idea? I'm open to all your wise suggestions. Thanks

2004 FJR1300A
2017 Royal Enfield Continental GT 535
I ride bikes cause four wheels are much harder to lean🤪
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post #27 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustedpalm View Post
Mr.B, yes that helps.
I put a new cap on today.
I filled the rad to just below the neck, I tilted the bike left and right a few times and got some air bubbles out and topped it off once again.
I filled the expansion tank to the full mark. Start the bike with the rad cap off.

Ok.. all of that sounds good.. but was all of that running to temp done with the new Rad Cap off? (sorry if I misunderstood).
If yes, top off and repeat with the new rad cap ON securely and see what happens.
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post #28 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. BR View Post
Ok.. all of that sounds good.. but was all of that running to temp done with the new Rad Cap off? (sorry if I misunderstood).
If yes, top off and repeat with the new rad cap ON securely and see what happens.
Mr. BR
Oh I forgot to mention that after the fan turned on and the level dropped and I filled it back up, I checked the ebb and flow with the throttle then I did put the new cap on. That was just before the fifth bar lit up.

2004 FJR1300A
2017 Royal Enfield Continental GT 535
I ride bikes cause four wheels are much harder to lean🤪
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post #29 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:33 PM
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Sounds ok.... after another cooling cycle (leave cap on this time), reservoir level should normalize.

Ray
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post #30 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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So...
Today I finally got the chance to take the ol' girl out for a test ride. I went about 12 miles in about 10 minutes. Not a big run but it was helpful.

I left the radiator cap on. The reservoir was about 1" above the full line. I rode at a steady 60mph or higher (only slightly) and it stayed at 3 bars until about the 7th mile when I stopped at a stop sign. It then went to 4 bars and the fan turned on. I took off and about a quarter of a mile later it dropped down to 3 bars and stayed there until the next stop sign about 3 miles later and it went to 4. It soon went back to 3 until I turned onto my road and held at 25mph. It went to 4 for the last half mile then up to 5 bars as I pulled up my 80' driveway. I turned it off with the kill switch so that the fan would stay running. It dropped to 4 bars within 3 minutes.

So it's a major improvement. Maybe the old radiator simply doesn't have as good of a coolant flow as it should because as long as your moving is fine.

2004 FJR1300A
2017 Royal Enfield Continental GT 535
I ride bikes cause four wheels are much harder to lean🤪
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