06 AE sh_26 - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 02:26 AM
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Awesome thanks so much. I got a new one lined up for pick up tomorrow. They even said they would let me do the wetting with acid vs pre done from factory. If I recall itís pour in acid,once 100% of it is in, wait an hour, then trickle charge until full, watch to see if it gets hot.
To 'pickle' the battery, carefully fill the supplied electrolyte until just over the plates and let it sit. Gently rock the battery to jar any bubbles off of the plates so as to ensure that the liquid is over the plates, but do not fill all the way to the full mark just yet.

After an hour or so and refilling to just above the plates as required, then charge the battery until complete. At that time, top up the electrolyte level with the approved acid mixture ( always the same stuff supplied ) AND (apologies if I used differing terminology for the supplied electrolyte).... and then never add any thing except distilled water to the battery. \

Again, fill to just over the plates. Then charge the battery. Then top off to 'full' marks. Install the caps. From that point on, do not add any liquid other than water (preferably distilled or de-ionized).

Watch the electrolyte level regularly and always do your best to keep the level above the plates.

If you ever find your level low, fill with water to above the plates and then charge fully BEFORE adding water to the 'full' level marks.

Cheers!

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 08:28 AM
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FabricGATOR, I believe you are describing a traditional lead-acid, and you are correct. Spicywolf has a new AGM, so the procedure is to take the acid pack, insert it into the battery and let the acid be totally absorbed into the glass mat, waiting the appropriate time.... then put the sealing caps on and charge it.

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
I like the Yuasa DIY fill as you know it is fresh. It is an AGM, after the electrolyte is absorbed, it looks like any other AGM. These ones are the aftermarket Yuasas made in PA. I have not tried the OEM GT14B4 GS (Partzilla $115) but might one day.
I also like the customer filling of the cells. Between battery degradation on the shelf and or first charge not being done properly Iíd rather not risk it. Today I pick it up, Iíll follow the Yuasa procedures as stated by their site, charge on my tender plus. I really hope it fixes the sh_26. Besides the sh_26 my bike has been flawless.

2006 fjr1300 50k silver. Iron butt fuel tank, Led pods, Corbin heated seat, all the touring fixings.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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So decided to look at the actuator and clutch fluid. All looks good except this wire seems to have a tiny pin hole exposed. The store says my made in 2013 Yuasa passed a load test with 12.7v. However on the bike meter it says 12.3
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2006 fjr1300 50k silver. Iron butt fuel tank, Led pods, Corbin heated seat, all the touring fixings.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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please fjr1300 experts, help a guy out. im not an expert in this and could use help. so far im up the creek and no one seems to have even gotten this code.

2006 fjr1300 50k silver. Iron butt fuel tank, Led pods, Corbin heated seat, all the touring fixings.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Spicywolf View Post
Some one on the fjr Facebook page said it may be the master cylinder and that the clutch basket/ plates may be weavy? Does this sound about right? Mine does nick off take off when cold but when warm silky smooth
I have a 2008 AE,Look at section 8-190 FSM AE Model .... SH 26 Code .........if DOT 4 is fresh and full and no leaks, Bleed the system refer to " Bleeding Clutch section 3-19 FSM for FJR13AE. Also Check Clutch stroke. Read your AE FSM.

When cold my clutch has a slight "shudder" when starting off the first time, sometimes ( sometimes not) and when engine is warm never a issue.

During HOT weather here in Texas start it in the morning and drive no shudder issue when engine is first started.

I have adjusted my clutch engagement RPM ... tried different UP/Down settings (21 total setting positions 25 RPM increments), see section 8-179. The manual has some errors, to write to EE-PROM the book states push hand shift select button 0.3 seconds WTF..NOT 3 SECONDS and it will store a new setting. READ all of section 8-174 to 179. P.I.A. the first time Dan and I tied this, now that I have done this a few times no big deal now to access Code 62 in YCC-S and adjust clutch.

You have to jump two pins start writing to EE-PROM , Razerman has a ABS test harness with a on/off switch that works for the YCC-S. I have it connected and mounted in my glove box so I can adjust the clutch and check/clear codes for YCC-S.

I read the later model clutch baskets have more oil passage holes not sure if this is a issue jus sayin. This winter I am installing a new clutch pack and change and bleed fluid again.

Louis

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 10:40 AM
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please fjr1300 experts, help a guy out. im not an expert in this and could use help. so far im up the creek and no one seems to have even gotten this code.
Why does your service manual say an code sh_26 is ?

Also adding your location and year/model of bike to your profile will help where you may be close to someone who would be willing to help or know something about the particulars of your bike.

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Last edited by passx; 07-25-2019 at 10:44 AM.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 11:05 AM
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Why does your service manual say an code sh_26 is ?

Also adding your location and year/model of bike to your profile will help where you may be close to someone who would be willing to help or know something about the particulars of your bike.
He has 2006 AE in the title and Rayzerman posted on page one what code SH 26 is for a Gen II AE.

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2GENAE View Post
I have a 2008 AE,Look at section 8-190 FSM AE Model .... SH 26 Code .........if DOT 4 is fresh and full and no leaks, Bleed the system refer to " Bleeding Clutch section 3-19 FSM for FJR13AE. Also Check Clutch stroke. Read your AE FSM.

When cold my clutch has a slight "shudder" when starting off the first time, sometimes ( sometimes not) and when engine is warm never a issue.

During HOT weather here in Texas start it in the morning and drive no shudder issue when engine is first started.

I have adjusted my clutch engagement RPM ... tried different UP/Down settings (21 total setting positions 25 RPM increments), see section 8-179. The manual has some errors, to write to EE-PROM the book states push hand shift select button 0.3 seconds WTF..NOT 3 SECONDS and it will store a new setting. READ all of section 8-174 to 179. P.I.A. the first time Dan and I tied this, now that I have done this a few times no big deal now to access Code 62 in YCC-S and adjust clutch.

You have to jump two pins start writing to EE-PROM , Razerman has a ABS test harness with a on/off switch that works for the YCC-S. I have it connected and mounted in my glove box so I can adjust the clutch and check/clear codes for YCC-S.

I read the later model clutch baskets have more oil passage holes not sure if this is a issue jus sayin. This winter I am installing a new clutch pack and change and bleed fluid again.

Louis

Does that test harness also include the jumper for the abs test? id like to flush it as well.
here in florida heat when i start it and let it warm up it bucks, now if ive been driving enough to make the fans come off it smooths up and cannot tell. i think im going to do a full flush as per the manual as you said, a new clutch line as a help to eliminate possibilities.

2006 fjr1300 50k silver. Iron butt fuel tank, Led pods, Corbin heated seat, all the touring fixings.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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so an update 8/1/2019. I got the new battery in place and all accessories off. when done on the tender plus im at 12.9-13.V after a ride 12.8V. Last few days ill turn the key and get code 26, i then turn the key off and turn it on again and it goes away and lets me start as normal. ill do the clutch flush as per manual (the long way of swing arm removal) to make sure its not a fluid bubble problem. from there with the Service shop manual i can have a electrical guy track down any gremlins. over night it does go down to 12.8-12.7V so im guessing a power draw somewhere. for now i simply keep it on my battery tender plus.,

2006 fjr1300 50k silver. Iron butt fuel tank, Led pods, Corbin heated seat, all the touring fixings.
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