FJR1300 AS 2017 intermittent juddering - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 02:27 PM
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This.
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Originally Posted by Mr_Ed View Post
Add Throttle Position Sensor to Neal's list. That's precisely how my 2013 started acting and got progressively worse and worse until I replaced the TPS myself. The dealer insisted that couldn't be the problem because their diagnostics didn't find it. But replacing it fixed the problem.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 04:25 PM
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This.
May I suggest, before you (or anyone) go and start changing electrical or electronic parts.... Simply try to unplug, inspect the electrical connectors, and then reassemble it again (plug it back together or in).

Amongst many other things, I am an avionics technician and aircraft mechanic.
Have you ever been sitting at the airport, onboard/delayed for departure because of a navigation or radio issue?
94.5% of those type faults are 'cured' by the technician re-racking the radios. The modules are similar to our old CB radio slide mounts (but better and more expensive) where as removing and then reinstalling the radio will 'refresh' the dozens of electrical contacts and magically make them work again.

We do that with computers all the time. Remove the cards and memory modules, then put it all back together, carefully.

If its got teats or tires, your bound to have trouble with it...
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 07:39 PM
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I agree with checking the easy stuff first, but symptoms are just like what a bad TPS does. Mine is currently waiting for me to go get it, TPS installed today under warranty. My 15 does have 75000kms though, and it was fine probably up to 65k.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Ed View Post
Add Throttle Position Sensor to Neal's list. That's precisely how my 2013 started acting and got progressively worse and worse until I replaced the TPS myself. The dealer insisted that couldn't be the problem because their diagnostics didn't find it. But replacing it fixed the problem.
Yep, forgot that one. (I haven't experienced that personally yet, you usually only remember the ones that bit you) And I have read on an adventure bike forum that Super Tenere owners have experienced bad TPS units as well. It is the same unit used on multiple models across many years. I'm sure you could find failures talked about on other bike specific forums as well. Just look at how many models are listed in the fitment list here:

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...MC-85884-00-00

Testing electrical components is fairly straight forward. You need a decent multimeter, probes (paperclips work wonders sometimes) and a manual to tell you the readings you should see while testing. The challenging part is testing in the same conditions they would see while riding. Some electrical components will work/test fine in an air conditioned service stall, but start failing in high temperature/humid real world conditions.

That's why you get the "we can't find anything wrong with it" with electrical troubleshooting sometimes.

There's a saying in construction, "measure twice, cut once". Same thing applies to testing electrical components. Test it a few times to make sure you get repeating results. This could also entail riding your bike "naked" around the block a few times.

No, not you being naked. No one wants to see that! Get the bike naked without the fairing/covers to access things quickly to test before it cools down.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 12:44 PM
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First, back to square one, verify no water in the fuel (Seafoam)...... then.... TPS. Yes it can test OK in DiAG, hot or cold, etc. Try this......

Copied from a friend...... Note, applies more specifically to Gen1/2. Gen3 has ECU controlled idle.

There is no need to guess about the TPS. Back-probe the TPS connector. Black DMM lead on the Black/Blue wire and the red DMM lead on the Yellow signal wire. At idle read .63 to .73 volts. Don't sweat a few milli-volts if it out of range. The way the TPS is attached to the main throttle body shaft the TPS idle voltage reading will change if you adjust the idle speed using the manual adjuster on the right side frame area. The ECU is mostly looking at throttle rate of change and span of throttle change instead of absolute voltage. If the TPS is bad in a narrow portion of the resistive track the ECU will see the sudden drop as a fast throttle change and will chop the FI off via the decel fuel cutoff and then when past the resistive track defect the ECU will see the sudden voltage rise like the rider is pinning the throttle wide open for a brief second and it's this rapid off/on that the ECU sees that makes the engine run so rough or outright stall.

Leave the meter back-probed to the TPS, Velcro/rubber band the meter to your handlebars and for a ride until it heats up. When the off idle misfire happens watch the meter. If it's the TPS, the voltage on the meter will notch down dramatically then come back up as you get the throttle beyond the (potentially) damaged spot inside the TPS. Steady, linear voltage = good TPS = look elsewhere.

The ECU provides +5 volt reference to most sensors and uses an isolated ground from the ECU so it is best to ground the meter to the Black/Blue wire and not chassis or battery ground.

Ray
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 05:20 PM
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FJR1300 AS 2017 intermittent juddering

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
First, back to square one, verify no water in the fuel (Seafoam)...... then.... TPS. Yes it can test OK in DiAG, hot or cold, etc. When the off idle misfire happens watch the meter. If it's the TPS, the voltage on the meter will notch down dramatically then come back up as you get the throttle beyond the (potentially) damaged spot inside the TPS. Steady, linear voltage = good TPS = look elsewhere.
General Note:

Digital Volt Meters (DVMs) now can be had that have a bar-graph reading across the display, which is very useful when testing any variable component. You can miss (or dismiss) any jumps in the conventional digital displays, but the bar graph across the bottom of the display makes a jumpy readout very obvious. I have not tried this one (my DVM costs much more), but it looks like it packs a lot of capability for the price.




Do not confuse this good bar graph display option with any complex and expensive graph-paper display, which is not what we need on our meters. Your old DVM will still be a handy backup meter.

Cheers,
Red
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