Throttle Body Sync - Now I Seem to be Running Hot! - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ok... I hope Rayzerman doesn't mind me quoting another post of his...


"For Gen1/2, you can set any cylinder to be the reference, e.g., when removing the screws to clean (higher mileage), screw them all back in and then back them out a little more than 3/4 turn (no more than 1 turn). Then pick one as reference and adjust all others to that baseline."


So ..I could easily go back to the original setting on #3 by turning screw back a 1/4 turn putting me at 27cm (original setting) no harm no foul..right!?!... or maybe I screwed it up from the get-go! I'm hoping not.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 05:02 PM
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Since you're still in there, check the throttle body butterflies for gunk around the plates and the body where they meet. If lots of schmoo, clean it thoroughly and then re-sync. This did wonders for my 2004. Sync adjustment was more stable and off idle transition improved greatly. Just a thought.

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 11:26 PM
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Ignore your actual reading, it means nothing. Reset all the screws as I mentioned and pick #3 as reference, balance the rest to it. As long as they all are evenly matched, you're good, button it up.
As far as "bottoming" the screws, lightly seat is the correct terminology. No harm in it unless you really crank them and damage the brass screw. Gen1/2 need some vacuum to operate, so no screw should end up being bottomed after the adjustment if you start out with the reference at least 3/4 turn out.
Gen3 is a different animal, throttle by wire.

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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 06:38 AM
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So Ray let me ask, do the Screws on the gen 1-2 meter fuel or just air bleeds like on the gen 3-3.5, just curious.

Steve P
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 07:18 AM
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They are air bleeds...... note Gen3 runs on minimal/no vacuum bleed.

Ray
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. BR View Post
Your temps are fine and perfectly normal.... my '05 does the same. And yes, the recent spike in ambient temps also has my "normal" temp, when moving, bumped up from 2 Bars to 3 Bars.... fan always kicks in at 4 bars (no change there). As for your synch, second picture looks good, you'll never get all 4 exactly the same (nor does it matter), but the nearly closed #1, 2 and 4 adjustment screws probably means some add'l fiddling is needed. I personally like my idle a bit lower (~1K revs indicated or just under) to lessen the clunk into gear (and it just feels better to me... 1.1K too fast IMO but that's just me). Others will surely have an opinion on this and some add'l guidance as well.

Mr. BR

The FJR warm idle should be around 1100 rpm. Lower than that has lead to many reports of problems (stalling, etc.). It's not a cruiser and not designed to idle at 900 rpm.

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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Ignore your actual reading, it means nothing. Reset all the screws as I mentioned and pick #3 as reference, balance the rest to it. As long as they all are evenly matched, you're good, button it up.
As far as "bottoming" the screws, lightly seat is the correct terminology. No harm in it unless you really crank them and damage the brass screw. Gen1/2 need some vacuum to operate, so no screw should end up being bottomed after the adjustment if you start out with the reference at least 3/4 turn out.
Gen3 is a different animal, throttle by wire.

Thanks for the guidence!.. I will reset and try again. I'm curious though why TB#3 as the reference.. does it really matter? I've wonder why my TB#4 doesn't seem to match sync of the others with the same turn out of the air screw. Maybe something there clogged or dirty?
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 12:15 AM
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It really doesn't matter which you pick as a reference, as long as they all end up the same, I only mention it since it has always been #3... You can remove the screws, careful not to lose any precious little parts, and clean them as well as the passages with some carb cleaner if you like. Having the screws out the initial 3/4+ turn, pretty well ensures all can be synced without any one being at zero.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 01:09 AM
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OK, the air bleed screws are adjusted for sync at idle. As the throttle is advanced the throttle plates begin to open and as more throttle is applied most of the air entering the throttle body is through the opened throttle valves with only a small percentage of total air flowing past the air bypass screws so it is true that the air bleed screws only effect TB balance at idle and only a few RPM off idle.

On the gen2 bikes there is a procedure whereby one can increase revs above idle and sync the throttle bodies by making adjustments to the TB linkage assembly itself. I've done this on my '10 gen2 with good results. Don't know for sure but I think the gen1 bikes have the same TB linkage as the gen2 so you could most likely follow the same procedure on the gen1. I know that in the gen3 Yamaha eliminated the rather more complex adjustable linkage assembly so the only TB sync is at idle using the air bleed / bypass screws. I would guess this was done as a production cost saving measure which means a bit more profit for the mothership.

If you don't believe what I'm saying check out the throttle body balance procedure on any BMW oilhead. First you adjust the TB air bypass screws for sync at idle then you apply throttle and sync above idle using the adjustments on the throttle cables to each throttle body. Same thing is accomplished on the FJR by adjusting the TB linkage.

If you think sync at idle with the air bypass screws results in smoother running throughout the RPM range you are fooling yourself.
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 09:30 AM
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James, you are welcome to your opinion but any inbalance of any kind between the cylinders will affect them through the entire rpm range. The bleeds do not shut off above idle so they do affect things all the way up tp redline.

Now I will agree that the gen 2 unauthorized sync of the t-body throttle blades will affect things much more noticeably and I also agree that Yamaha probably eliminated that ability on the gen 3ís as a cost savings measure. Itís funny that this debate continues because on the Classic Wing Club site years ago we had this very argument about it only affecting things at idle and that balance is done on the throttle blades which as said before affects it all.

When I added in that you must set the valve clearances and ignition properly before doing a sync I really got blasted that it has no effect but it does and by a fair amount. Now setting the valves on the fjr is just a bit more involved and not nearly as easy (glís Are like the old beemers that way) and the ignition is pretty much set but again any inbalance affects things all the way up, not as much with the air bleeds as it does with the throttle blades but it does.

Steve P
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