Should I Replace Thermostat - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 03:54 PM
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Sure. give'm a soak with your fav lube......... but also get in there with a dental pick or equiv and loosen all the dirt, grit and other debris before you pull the tubes.
I like to have the shop vacuum going at the same time to wisk it all away!!
I don't recall having any issue breaking mine loose despite the dirt and rust that had collected over the years (mine had a lot of road grit/pebbles in there).

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Last edited by Mr. BR; 05-24-2019 at 02:15 AM. Reason: clarity
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds easy enough. Now that you mentioned it, making sure those wells are cleaned makes sense. Debris falling into the top of the valves would not be good!
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 07:24 AM
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Absolutely clean out debris before you take it apart... every FJR has crud and little stones in there... dental pick and 100 psi air blast works too (watch your eyes). After I remove the water pipe, with a greasy finger I wipe out as much grit as possible (the grit sticks to the grease), followed by a greasy Q-tip or some such....

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Absolutely clean out debris before you take it apart... every FJR has crud and little stones in there... dental pick and 100 psi air blast works too (watch your eyes). After I remove the water pipe, with a greasy finger I wipe out as much grit as possible (the grit sticks to the grease), followed by a greasy Q-tip or some such....
Yes found that out with the 1st air blast..won't do that again! The new orings you mentioned previously, I have some Super lube 56204..it says it's for high temp. Would this be fine for o-ring lubricant or something else?
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sangair View Post
Yes found that out with the 1st air blast..won't do that again! The new orings you mentioned previously, I have some Super lube 56204..it says it's for high temp. Would this be fine for o-ring lubricant or something else?
For a water based system, i’d use a smear of dishwashing liquid as a lubricant for the o-rings. Glycol (coolant) will also do the job to a lesser degree. Silicone grease will work, but you’d wanna be careful not to use too much that it contaminated the coolant. I’d avoid petroleum based lubricants

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Anthony
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 10:26 PM
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I use silicone grease, a little dab, rub the o-ring between my fingers just to coat it... I give the coolant pipe a rub too, but on all of these... can hardly know the silicone grease is there.... agree with non-petroleum.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 02:02 AM Thread Starter
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Good to know. I will do that. I do plan on checking valves since I'm in there. 2 procedures come to mind...I just recently replaced my original cct and know I will need to remove the cam chain cover again for the valve check. Should I replace the new gasket I just installed. Not a big expense just wondering...2nd, to check valve clearance, I read that the cct will need to be disengaged by turning the spring until it clicks and hold for this procedure. If I recall mine (with a green dot) did not click and hold, it had a small metal piece from the factory that kept it in the disengaged position. Once I installed I removed with small pliers. This released spring. Is it possible that the new green dot cct's do not stay disengaged?
I hope to god I do not have to remove cct again to check valves!
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 02:32 AM
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Sangair,

CCT can stay in place to check the valve clearances... you only fool with it IF you have remove cams to change shims.
I just checked my valves over the long wkend and was quite pleased to find all clearances in spec and mostly unchanged from my previous check 25K miles ago.
I also replaced all the coolant pipes, coolant, valve cover gasket, checked plugs, new/used water pump from a GEN3 '15 model. (btw, I just used new coolant to lube the O-rings for assembly).
Note: water pump replacements are rare for FJRs... I found intermittent coolant coming from my weep hole so I got a low mile, used 2015/GEN3 unit from ebay for $45...
Here's a few pictures you might find interesting...
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Mr. BR
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FJR old parts.jpg (128.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg FJR coolant pipe dirty.jpg (60.3 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg FJR valve cover off.jpg (88.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg FJR cover and pipes.jpg (101.7 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg FJR pipe at head.jpg (61.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg FJR pipe hole at head.jpg (62.6 KB, 5 views)

Last edited by Mr. BR; 05-29-2019 at 02:36 AM. Reason: clarity
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:03 PM
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I've done a ton of valve checks and haven't replaced a valve cover yet.... well once on an old Gen1 but at the owner's insistence. All you need for the job are coolant pipe o-rings.

Ray
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
I've done a ton of valve checks and haven't replaced a valve cover yet.... well once on an old Gen1 but at the owner's insistence. All you need for the job are coolant pipe o-rings.

I would agree.... my old valve cvr gasket was ok but what the heck.. I was buying stuff on partzilla.com and a new gasket somehow made it in to the cart... along with all the coolant pipes plus O-rings. Most of those were also in good shape but I had one pipe that was weeping despite an extra half turn on the clamp and I was getting a coolant smell at my morning start up (source unclear). Two small hoses are back-ordered so those will be later this summer. Rode bike to work today and no leaks or smells so far!
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