Continental Road Attack 3 tires - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Continental Road Attack 3 tires

I just installed a set of these Continentals today. I will post with updates on their performance.

The OEM BT23's made it 9100 miles with plenty of tread left in the rear but the front was cupped quite a bit (I maintain pressures weekly for my commute) and it felt like riding on nobbies at the end. I am hoping for more miles on these new tires than the older models from Bridgestone.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 08:36 PM
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A buddy has run a couple sets on his C14.
Very sticky , good for cold weather. In summer heat it would throw a constant rooster tail of sand/dirt off the road. Had to ride a long way back to avoid it.
He grew to dislike this and has gone back to Angel GT 11ís for a trial.
He did like the wear profile over time on front tire. I believe he got 5000miles but rides pretty hard.


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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Joe View Post
Very sticky , good for cold weather. In summer heat it would throw a constant rooster tail of sand/dirt off the road. Had to ride a long way back to avoid it.
I had the same experience with the RA2s: my buddies would always have to hang back behind me. They are a super sticky tire. I liked them a lot.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 12:11 AM
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Iím liking them. Very easy tyre to ride - no surprises, just endless amounts of grip.

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Anthony
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by wczimmerman View Post
.The OEM BT23's made it 9100 miles with plenty of tread left in the rear but the front was cupped quite a bit (I maintain pressures weekly for my commute) and it felt like riding on nobbies at the end.
Bridgestone is OEM. Any Bridgestone tire is OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) to the FJR, even the T30 which never shipped on a new FJR. The BT023 is OE (Original Equipment). Please say OE if that is what you mean. OEM is a term coined by independent parts distributors who could not sell genuine branded vehicle manufacturer (“Yamaha”) parts, but could source parts from the manufacturer who made the OE (“Bridgestone”).

An interesting fact: The FJR front brakes and rear brakes are not made by the same manufacturer. There are two OEMs, but only one OE.

Secondly, “cup” is a fun word to say but it is always wrong when applied to motorcycle tires. Cupping is a divot spanning multiple tread blocks appearing one or a few places around the tire. Due to imbalance, bad bearings, loose suspension, a number of things far worse than one can ride a motorcycle.

Modern motorcycle tires feather and scallop. Scalloping is a form of feathering, both are ugly wear patterns repeating on every tread block.

All street motorcycle tires will scallop and/or feather, nothing you can do about it. Higher tire pressures can reduce (not eliminate) the scalloping by creating a narrower contact patch. Narrower reduces the difference in speed across the road contact patch.

Scalloping occurs because the tread is rounded, not flat like a car tire. The center of your tire has a larger rolling diameter than the tread to either side yet the road moves at the same speed under the contact patch. Continuously changing diameter across the contact patch means something has to slide. The tire flexes more in the tread grooves so the edges of the tread blocks wear fastest as the tread squirms.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Ok...fair enough and I stand corrected. I strive to be precise in my communication but clearly fell short here:

My OE Bridgestone BT23's made it about 9100 miles before they were scalloped so badly that they felt like riding on nobbies.

Initial shake down ride this evening and the RA3's seem very stable and grip seems good. I recognize, however, that new tires always seem so much better since the old tires wear slowly making the transition to the new much more dramatic. At 600 miles/week it won't take long to add up the miles...

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Just a heads up for anyone considering taking advantage of the Continental tire rebate: it ONLY applies the the NON GT version of these...as I just found out the hard way. It is rather frustrating.

Road report: the first day of commuting (~125 miles) and I can report that these seem to have excellent grip and superb cornering. I have experience with the Pirelli GT's (not the 2's) on my prior ST1300 and the Bridgestone BT31's which both tipped into a corner aggressively but the RA3's easily go into the lean and hold it like glue. More results to come.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wczimmerman View Post
Road report: the first day of commuting (~125 miles) and I can report that these seem to have excellent grip and superb cornering. I have experience with the Pirelli GT's (not the 2's) on my prior ST1300 and the Bridgestone BT31's which both tipped into a corner aggressively but the RA3's easily go into the lean and hold it like glue. More results to come.
RA3 is a Road Attack 3? Not to be confused with RS3, Road Smart 3?

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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RA3 is a Road Attack 3? Not to be confused with RS3, Road Smart 3?
Correct: Road Attack 3

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
Bridgestone is OEM. Any Bridgestone tire is OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) to the FJR, even the T30 which never shipped on a new FJR. The BT023 is OE (Original Equipment). Please say OE if that is what you mean. OEM is a term coined by independent parts distributors who could not sell genuine branded vehicle manufacturer (“Yamaha”) parts, but could source parts from the manufacturer who made the OE (“Bridgestone”).

An interesting fact: The FJR front brakes and rear brakes are not made by the same manufacturer. There are two OEMs, but only one OE.

Secondly, “cup” is a fun word to say but it is always wrong when applied to motorcycle tires. Cupping is a divot spanning multiple tread blocks appearing one or a few places around the tire. Due to imbalance, bad bearings, loose suspension, a number of things far worse than one can ride a motorcycle.

Modern motorcycle tires feather and scallop. Scalloping is a form of feathering, both are ugly wear patterns repeating on every tread block.

All street motorcycle tires will scallop and/or feather, nothing you can do about it. Higher tire pressures can reduce (not eliminate) the scalloping by creating a narrower contact patch. Narrower reduces the difference in speed across the road contact patch.

Scalloping occurs because the tread is rounded, not flat like a car tire. The center of your tire has a larger rolling diameter than the tread to either side yet the road moves at the same speed under the contact patch. Continuously changing diameter across the contact patch means something has to slide. The tire flexes more in the tread grooves so the edges of the tread blocks wear fastest as the tread squirms.
Wow! Thanks N4HHE. I've been schooled. Very informative. It takes a lot at my age to be aware of, but no background knowledge, now I have some. Hopefully I'll remember and use this type of detail in the future. Very interesting and makes logical sense. Although I read about, and experienced on every set of tires I've owned, the feathering/scallop of the front and rear tire, but at a higher degree on the front. Thanks, your explanation is short, succinct, and logical . Can't ask for better than that on an issue every rider experiences. I normally run 40 front, 42 rear, was thinking of going this year to 38/42, but now I think I'll stay at 40/42.
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Last edited by FjrjrF; 05-14-2019 at 05:44 AM. Reason: edit
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