Continental Road Attack 3 tires - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:51 AM
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Bridgestone is OEM. Any Bridgestone tire is OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) to the FJR, even the T30 which never shipped on a new FJR. The BT023 is OE (Original Equipment). Please say OE if that is what you mean. OEM is a term coined by independent parts distributors who could not sell genuine branded vehicle manufacturer (“Yamaha”) parts, but could source parts from the manufacturer who made the OE (“Bridgestone”).

An interesting fact: The FJR front brakes and rear brakes are not made by the same manufacturer. There are two OEMs, but only one OE.

Secondly, “cup” is a fun word to say but it is always wrong when applied to motorcycle tires. Cupping is a divot spanning multiple tread blocks appearing one or a few places around the tire. Due to imbalance, bad bearings, loose suspension, a number of things far worse than one can ride a motorcycle.

Modern motorcycle tires feather and scallop. Scalloping is a form of feathering, both are ugly wear patterns repeating on every tread block.

All street motorcycle tires will scallop and/or feather, nothing you can do about it. Higher tire pressures can reduce (not eliminate) the scalloping by creating a narrower contact patch. Narrower reduces the difference in speed across the road contact patch.

Scalloping occurs because the tread is rounded, not flat like a car tire. The center of your tire has a larger rolling diameter than the tread to either side yet the road moves at the same speed under the contact patch. Continuously changing diameter across the contact patch means something has to slide. The tire flexes more in the tread grooves so the edges of the tread blocks wear fastest as the tread squirms.

Feeling better now?

My big hang up (one of many) is that almost everyone refers to engines as “motors”. As in “what kind of motor you got there?” Me “are you talking about the starter motor”.
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:03 AM
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I normally run 40 front, 42 rear, was thinking of going this year to 38/42, but now I think I'll stay at 40/42.
I change tires on a friend's FJR who gets at least 10% longer life out of his tires than I do, yet most of my riding is following or leading him. He swears he won't put air in his tires until they fall to 32 PSI. While he somehow gets longer life out of his tires having ridden his 2014 FJR I say for front tire's last 2000 miles or so his bike rides like a fat pig.

Keeping at least 36 PSI cold in my front tire they ride just fine to the very end. All but the Shinko 016 I just took off with steel starting to show on left side at 3600 miles. That tire always steered odd. My first comment about new Shinko 016 was, "steers heavy." Higher tire pressures helped a bit.

I haven't liked higher pressures in some front tires because it made the steering too light and didn't feel solid in turns. Remember RS3 in particular. Fortunately we can play with tire pressures to suit ourselves, I doubt there are any safety concerns, within reason. I think everyone should try 36, 38, 40, and 42 in the front. If you find pressures you don't like then you know better what pressures you do like.
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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 11:15 AM
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I also think you could test everyone’s tire gauge against a master and most all would differ by a pound or two.


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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 11:18 AM
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My OE BT023’s were done and front tire almost bald at 5000miles. Only set of all the tires I have run that the front tire w
Wore out first


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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jjscsix View Post
Feeling better now?

My big hang up (one of many) is that almost everyone refers to engines as “motors”. As in “what kind of motor you got there?” Me “are you talking about the starter motor”.
"Does anyone have the ASIN at Amazon for an OEM Yamaha motor? Mine got cupped and the tranny is demanding a sex change."

2018 F-150 XLT SuperCab 4x4 2.7L
2016 FJR1300A
2016 Beta 430 RS
2016 Subaru Outback
2013 Tesla Model S 85
2009 Husaberg FE450
1983 Porsche 928S
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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:07 PM
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People seem to think that increased pressure equals increased tyre life. It is not exclusively or absolutely true - there are myriad variables involved. For one - increased pressure results in higher loading over a smaller surface area.

Cheers,

Anthony
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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:58 AM
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People seem to think that increased pressure equals increased tyre life. It is not exclusively or absolutely true - there are myriad variables involved. For one - increased pressure results in higher loading over a smaller surface area.
Yup. A smaller contact patch will carry more load and slip more. But a larger contact patch will scrub more due to the different rolling diameters from left to right. its not cut and dry. Is beyond the ability of armchair engineers. 10,000 miles of tire measurements is worth more than a million lines of software simulation.

In other words, all you can do is inflate your tires and see what happens. The only sure thing is that what you expect will not happen.

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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:36 AM
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Different tire pressures, different road surface adhesion's, whether you live in straight flat, or curvy hilly country, whether you spend a lot of time riding single or two up loaded, whether you spend a lot of time on the freeway at 80 mph or on 2 lane country back roads at 45-60 mph, aggressiveness of rider in both acceleration and braking, and even stature.... where you sit on the bike (EX: Being a munchkin, I sit on the front on the seat up against the tank, where someone taller sits back on the rear of the back seat maybe do to height or seat design, putting different weight bias on the front tire) ...all contribute to handling, tire wear, and tire life. All you can do is have a basic starting point and experiment from there for yourself. Most tire and motorcycle mfgs have recommendations, but they are just that, recommendations, not rock hard specific rules that you must follow when setting tire pressures.

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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:56 AM
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The variables are small IMHO, but definitely increase with larger differences in pressure.... e.g., running a front at 42 vs. 36. Well, lets throw in sidewall stiffness in there. I can't get my head around 36 at all, it's plain low.
I'm about to buy a 500 lb. Honda CBF.... recommended pressures are 42/42 with a 160-17 rear. Honda ST13 recommended pressures are 42/42 but it's a slightly heavier bike than an FJR.
Lower pressures are better in colder weather where you need your tires to warm up properly.
To the OP, the Conti's are known for excellent grip and handling, but they aren't a high mileage tire. Excellent prices though.

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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 12:04 PM
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I have wondered about the Continentals life also. When I bought my 08 FJR the front wore out before the rear at about 5000 miles. Put on a set of bias tires and that fixed that. The bias front also doesn't scallop or cup like a radial. I'll get 11/12,000 out of a front and very little wear like you normally see. There will be a tiny bit of scalloping but very little. Bias on the rear gets me around 10K.

By the way I have run bias tires on everything I have owned. Couple of K100RS, current K1100RS, ST1300, both FJR's. Just don't like changing oil and tires at the same time.

Guess I'm a toss up between radials and dark siders.
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