Collective knowledge needed: Rear axle nut - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Collective knowledge needed: Rear axle nut

Nobody's fault but my own I guess. I need to change the rear tire and the last time I did that 2 years ago, I tightened the left axle nut to torque specs 90 ft-lbs. For the life of me, I cannot remove that nut on the left side on the rear axle. I get the entire axle to turn, even with it pinch clamped tight with the 12mm nut, without breaking the nut free! I have a breaker bar on the right hex side using the ground as a brace, but it causes that breaker bar to lift the bike and rotate. That left side nut looks like it is a locking nut, but should still be able to break free. Used a hammer air drill to no avail.

This is the first time on this bike, I'm at a loss.

- Jim,
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 03:36 PM
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No matter what Yamaha says I think 90 lbf-ft is too much. Makes no sense for the left to be tighter than the clamp on right can hold.

I think lacking an impact wrench you will have to stand on the breaker bar holding the 14mm hex on right while lifting on breaker bar on left nut. Yanking seems to be better than steady force.

Decades ago a hammer driven impact wrench was essential tool for removing side covers from Japanese motorcycle engines. That or an air impact wrench is what you need today.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 03:50 PM
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If you rotate your wrench on the left side to point forward and push down, the bike will not lift.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 04:26 PM
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Collective knowledge needed: Rear axle nut

FjrjrF,

A hammer with a heavy head made of solid lead is called a dead-blow hammer. Use it with slowly increasing force, no more than needed, driving downward on the largest (thickest) possible breaker bar.

If all else fails, try some heat from a propane torch on the nut; you should not need excessive heat, but make the nut maybe just too warm to touch (if you even need that much heat).
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all, I did not think of using the wrench on the left side to the front pointing down, with heat. Thanks to all for input. Two years ago it was hard to take off, but nothing like this! I will not be putting it at 90 ft-lb in the future. I'll give these a try.

- Jim,
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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THANKS!!!! You guys saved the day! I will not be putting it back on at 90 ft-lbs more like 66 ft-lbs. Thanks again, the day is not a total loss.
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- Jim,
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 12:35 AM
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Ive never had a problem at 90 lbs or is it 90 NM??

Anyway its one of the very few things i use a torque wrench for on any bike, as i agree they are not needed and Yammy specs are a bit high, but 90 is not that high on a wheel spindle.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polar View Post
Ive never had a problem at 90 lbs or is it 90 NM??

Anyway its one of the very few things i use a torque wrench for on any bike, as i agree they are not needed and Yammy specs are a bit high, but 90 is not that high on a wheel spindle.
I just looked it up in the Haynes manual and the spec torque for the rear axle nut is 125 nm which converts to 92 ft/lbs.


http://www.unitconversion.org/energy...onversion.html
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 06:49 AM
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Two years between rear tire changes? The bike is mad at you for not riding enough

Good luck.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:58 AM
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Agree 90 is too much. I don't go more than 80, there is plenty of clamp load at that torque and it is a locking nut.

Ray
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