battery replacement dimensions YT14B-BS not all the same - Page 3 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 10:44 AM
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YUASA YT14B-BS being sold for US$86.88 at Wamart.com Free shipping. Just a heads up, mine is arriving tomorrow.
Here is the link. https://www.walmart.com/ip/YUASA-YT1...TERY/394053495

Made in TAIWAN, and YOU put the acid in. Two strikes in my opinion. {which as my wife will tell you, STINKS, LOL}
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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 09:46 AM
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Here is the link. https://www.walmart.com/ip/YUASA-YT1...TERY/394053495

Made in TAIWAN, and YOU put the acid in. Two strikes in my opinion. {which as my wife will tell you, STINKS, LOL}
Yes, It says made in TAIWAN on it and yes, there is an acid that has to be added. Was purchased thru Walmart .com, which, is a portal to many vendors if Wally doesn't supply it. On the Wally website it said that the battery was being purchased from Chaparral Motorsports and arrived through Tucker Rocky's distribution warehousing in one day shipping.

Now my question, because I don't know, how would one order the OEM battery that would be made in the USA, if they even do for this model?

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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 10:05 AM
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Yes, It says made in TAIWAN on it and yes, there is an acid that has to be added. Was purchased thru Walmart .com, which, is a portal to many vendors if Wally doesn't supply it. On the Wally website it said that the battery was being purchased from Chaparral Motorsports and arrived through Tucker Rocky's distribution warehousing in one day shipping.

Now my question, because I don't know, how would one order the OEM battery that would be made in the USA, if they even do for this model?
The original OEM battery is made overseas, and dealer only kind of thing, but Partzilla sells it (GT14B4). I'd call to make sure it is the GT.
The aftermarket Yuasa is sold lots of places, search YT14B-BS, it is made in Pennsylvania.
ANd if you have to add the acid, all the better I say, you'll know it is fresh. Be sure to trickle charge it before you install.

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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 05:55 PM
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Here is the link. https://www.walmart.com/ip/YUASA-YT1...TERY/394053495

Made in TAIWAN, and YOU put the acid in. Two strikes in my opinion. {which as my wife will tell you, STINKS, LOL}

I think no one ships batteries with the acid in them.

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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 09:34 PM
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https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/..._glass_mat_agm

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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 07:20 AM
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There is an important information in this article:

As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive.

My gen3 have a charging voltage of near 14.4V
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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 09:59 AM
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I’ve only used AGM batteries for bout the last 20yrs now in my bikes and yard equipment, they simply outlast anything else i’ve used. I do believe the overcharging thing to some degree but not completely because with my old honda’s Their oe regulator/rectifiers allow typical charging to run 14-16.5 volts, really hard on batteries. But agm’s Seem to work well in them and not get boiled off. I also keep them on a tender whenever the bike is not being ridden and most are now somewhere between 6 and 10yrs old, good products.

I’ll add that over the past several years i’ve been trying to change the oe reg/rectifiers out for new combined mosfet reg/rec combo’s from Rick’s Electric’s in New Hampshire, they actually make them there and are really good people to deal with. That change typically makes the charge stay between 12.9 & 13.4, much better control. AGM batteries,,, highly recommended.
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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 10:27 AM
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GM was the first I know to pound the battery with ~14.5V for the first 15-20 minutes after starting then fall back to 13.8v for the remainder of one's drive. Factory voltmeter on dash of 2001 Sonoma was good enough to see this happening. Believe they built the feature into the voltage regulator on the alternator.

Others in modern times have a control signal from ECU to alternator. Some make claims this control is for MPG but I'm at loss to understand because any electrical power not generated now has to be generated later. So how is that saving?

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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 04:26 PM
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GM was the first I know to pound the battery with ~14.5V for the first 15-20 minutes after starting then fall back to 13.8v for the remainder of one's drive. Factory voltmeter on dash of 2001 Sonoma was good enough to see this happening. Believe they built the feature into the voltage regulator on the alternator.

Others in modern times have a control signal from ECU to alternator. Some make claims this control is for MPG but I'm at loss to understand because any electrical power not generated now has to be generated later. So how is that saving?
Could be during deceleration or downhill....
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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 08:31 AM
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I donít get that because the alternator puts out a constant voltage (affected only by rpm to a degree) and the regulator is the only thing that changes the voltage outputs but shunts any excess to ground. But the alternator (load) is constant so there is no mpg savings unless you use a larger diameter pulley to slow the rpm. This was a common modification back-in-the-day which provided a measurable h-power increase at the wheels.
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