2002 FJR1300 Clunk at idle - Page 6 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #51 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 03:38 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, everything is fixed.

The report from the mechanic:

- Coil pack change did not change issue (glad I bought the $45 used set)
- Removed throttle bodies, seized choke plungers
- Balanced spring adjustments - incorrect adjustments
- Ultrasonic bath throttle bodies
- Unseized choke cables
- Repair throttle body adjuster springs
- Balance throttle bodies - OK
- Test ride - Good

- I loved this bit myself - Do not adjust butterflies to balance throttle bodies use air screws on primary/secondary

I think this gent would hate to read about the posts on unofficial TBS adjustments.

Video of the bike starting from cold and warming to nice 100 rpm idle with NO CLUNKING - I LOVE IT.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RFca1TvyAb31K7u9

Thanks again for all your assistance FJROWNERS.

Cheers,
Dave
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post #52 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 06:39 AM
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Excellent news...... it would appear the previous owner attempted an unauthorized TBS and didn't get it right. Good idea to clean the fast idle mechanism and get everything sync'ed properly. IMHO, the only way to do the unauthorized TBS is to have the throttle bodies off and on the bench where you can see what you're doing. Congrats, enjoy that ride!

Ray
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post #53 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ichsnoo View Post
Okay, everything is fixed.

The report from the mechanic:

- Coil pack change did not change issue (glad I bought the $45 used set)
- Removed throttle bodies, seized choke plungers
- Balanced spring adjustments - incorrect adjustments
- Ultrasonic bath throttle bodies
- Unseized choke cables
- Repair throttle body adjuster springs
- Balance throttle bodies - OK
- Test ride - Good

- I loved this bit myself - Do not adjust butterflies to balance throttle bodies use air screws on primary/secondary

I think this gent would hate to read about the posts on unofficial TBS adjustments.

Video of the bike starting from cold and warming to nice 100 rpm idle with NO CLUNKING - I LOVE IT.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RFca1TvyAb31K7u9

Thanks again for all your assistance FJROWNERS.

Cheers,
Dave
And WE appreciate you continuing to keep the forum informed and especially coming back with the final results. Posts like this that we never find the end results, make my OCD thermometer go over 105 degree's. Thanks.

07 FJR 48,000 miles 03 Yamaha FJR1300
1986 Yamaha FZX700 1977 Kawasaki KX250 1978? Yamaha TY250 1979 Yamaha YZ250 1970 850 Moto Guzzi 1974? Honda XL 100 1978? Yamaha XT500 1975 Yamaha RD350B 1964 Bridgestone 90S
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post #54 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 06:53 AM
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What is a choke plunger? I thought the FJR used a wax thermostat and an enricher circuit.

07 FJR 48,000 miles 03 Yamaha FJR1300
1986 Yamaha FZX700 1977 Kawasaki KX250 1978? Yamaha TY250 1979 Yamaha YZ250 1970 850 Moto Guzzi 1974? Honda XL 100 1978? Yamaha XT500 1975 Yamaha RD350B 1964 Bridgestone 90S
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post #55 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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And WE appreciate you continuing to keep the forum informed and especially coming back with the final results. Posts like this that we never find the end results, make my OCD thermometer go over 105 degree's. Thanks.
Mate I feel the same way. I have read a number where I just wanted the final outcome. You guys deserve that for the help and advice given. It becomes a reference too for someone else who may encounter a similar issue.

Thanks,
Dave

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post #56 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 08:12 AM
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Dave, great news, and thanks for the report beck. Only one thing that needs to be done now and that is just ride the heck out of it, maybe a box of donuts for the mechanic, refreshing to see one that seems to know his business.
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post #57 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 04:30 PM
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What is a choke plunger? I thought the FJR used a wax thermostat and an enricher circuit.
I think its just an air valve operated by a wax capsule heated by the coolant that lets air in between the throttle butterfly and the inlet port, it increases the idle speed, so not a choke plunger, really should be called a fast idle valve, the ECU takes care of enrichment according to the temperature of the coolant.

I would still really like to know what was causing the mechanical clunk.
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post #58 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Dave, great news, and thanks for the report beck. Only one thing that needs to be done now and that is just ride the heck out of it, maybe a box of donuts for the mechanic, refreshing to see one that seems to know his business.
Thanks Passx,

I will be out on this machine ASAP. Too many weeks without riding. The mechanic was definitely knowledgeable albeit a little direct in his approach (Sermon Like). I don't think he likes home mechanics much, but I think I kept on his good side barely. LOL.

Cheers,
Dave

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post #59 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018, 07:34 AM
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Thanks Passx,

I will be out on this machine ASAP. Too many weeks without riding. The mechanic was definitely knowledgeable albeit a little direct in his approach (Sermon Like). I don't think he likes home mechanics much, but I think I kept on his good side barely. LOL.

Cheers,
Dave
That attitude seems to predominate among competent motorcycle mechanics. It's annoying to deal with, but is so much better than dealing with a likable incompetent mechanic. LOL

07 FJR 48,000 miles 03 Yamaha FJR1300
1986 Yamaha FZX700 1977 Kawasaki KX250 1978? Yamaha TY250 1979 Yamaha YZ250 1970 850 Moto Guzzi 1974? Honda XL 100 1978? Yamaha XT500 1975 Yamaha RD350B 1964 Bridgestone 90S
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post #60 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018, 08:37 AM
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I think most really competent mechanics have that attitude, some because they tend to be older (experience) and we all tend to get more short and direct the older we get and probably the real reason is that they view home mechanics as hacks and amateurs that take money out of their pocket plus they get stuck trying to figure out what has been done.

I worked at my friends bike shop for a while (probably the most competent gl1000 guy I know, but very grumpy at times) and some of the things that were done to bikes before the owner brought it in to get fixed surprised me. Plus some of the attitudes of the owners when they brought a $500 bike in with the instructions of just fix it even though you try to explain it may cost $1500, they figure just because its old that you can fix it for $50.

I have a 78 gl1000 that is exactly that case, the guy just wanted it fixed so he could ride it, when he was presented with the $800 bill he just flipped out even though it ran great he just handed over the title. Rebuilding the carbs alone was $600.

Either way, keep in contact with your mechanic and if the bike runs as well as it sounds let him know, everyone appreciates a pat on the back.
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