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post #1 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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tire pressure

is there a preferred pressure to balance handling and tire life? I learned on my goldwing to run the front a little higher to avoid tire cupping, any thoughts or recommendations, thanks Sam.

also: I can't seem to find a search function, am I missing something???
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post #2 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 06:52 AM
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Iíve run 2-3 psi over and gotten good mileage on the tires. It depends on the tire - the front Iíve got on now likes the recommended.
The search function is that red magnifying glass under the top graphic. Also, google with FJR in it usually will bring up posts from this forum

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post #3 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 07:26 AM
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General consensus here is around 40 FR/42 RR.

Brand/model doesn't seem to matter much.
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post #4 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 11:20 AM
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General consensus here is around 40 FR/42 RR.

Brand/model doesn't seem to matter much.
This^^. For every bike & every tire, rule of thumb for me has always been to look on the sidewall for the "max pressure at max load" rating, subtract 2 or 3 and pump it up! Ride a while, tweak a bit, find what works, write it down. For some unknown reason bike shops always want to make them way too soft, as little as 28 on a 700 lb bike. Nuts!!

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post #5 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 11:30 AM
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tire pressure

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Originally Posted by 15cherries View Post
is there a preferred pressure to balance handling and tire life? I learned on my goldwing to run the front a little higher to avoid tire cupping, any thoughts or recommendations, thanks Sam. also: I can't seem to find a search function, am I missing something???
Sam,

The owners' manual is a good place to start, for tire pressures. The rear should feel planted, but not harsh. For the front tire, if the FJR wants to dive into turns, add two pounds of air at a time to the front tire to get the handling right. If the FJR wants to stand up in turns, needing effort to hold it down in a turn, release two pounds of air at a time to get the handling right. Get the front tire pressure between the front tire pressure being too high or too low, and the FJR will handle (in and out of turns) almost effortlessly. In no case should you need tire pressures ten pounds above or below the manual specs.

Not everybody has the Search symbol appear on their browser. If you do not see it, click on the HOME button on the black bar near the top of the page, then click on your user name, just below HOME. Then the SEARCH link should appear at the far end of the black bar.

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P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

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post #6 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 03:38 PM
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I have always kept to the recommended pressures of 36psi front and 42 rear and that works fine for me and the tyres always seem to wear well

Past bikes; Honda 50 Suzuki 50 Yam XS250 Yam XJ650 Yam XJ 900 Honda CX650 Turbo Yam FJ1100 Yam FJ1200 (2) Honda ST1100 (2) Yam FJR1300 (5) 670,000 miles !



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post #7 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 05:41 PM
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is there a preferred pressure to balance handling and tire life? I learned on my goldwing to run the front a little higher to avoid tire cupping, any thoughts or recommendations, thanks Sam.
Your Goldwing tire never cupped, no motorcycle tire has ever cupped. But "cupping" sounds so much more fun to say than "scalloped" or "feathered".

Cupping is caused by really really bad loose suspension components. You can not ride a motorcycle in that bad of shape.

No motorcycle tire wears without scalloping. No matter the tire pressure. The radius from axle to tread is greater in the center of the tire. Is less to either side, lessening all the way to the sidewall. Because the wheel is turning at one RPM and the road under the tire is moving at one speed, the differing radii means the contact patch is moving at different speeds from one side to the other. Something has to scrub. This results in scalloping: a wear pattern that repeats on each tire block.

As for optimal tire pressure: Yamaha's 36 PSI cold front, 42 PSI rear, works awfully darn good. But some people are smarter than Yamaha and know the correct pressure must be higher, because something, maybe ride quality or conspiracy to prematurely wear out tires, or Yamaha is simply going to tell you wrong for the heck of it.
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post #8 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 05:46 PM
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Sam,

The owners' manual is a good place to start, for tire pressures. The rear should feel planted, but not harsh. For the front tire, if the FJR wants to dive into turns, add two pounds of air at a time to the front tire to get the handling right. If the FJR wants to stand up in turns, needing effort to hold it down in a turn, release two pounds of air at a time to get the handling right. Get the front tire pressure between the front tire pressure being too high or too low, and the FJR will handle (in and out of turns) almost effortlessly. In no case should you need tire pressures ten pounds above or below the manual specs.
A new front tire at 36 PSI will have neutral steering. As it ages it will fall into turns when cold. About a mile from home neutral handing will return. I have not found cold 38 or 40 PSI to change this behavior. Higher pressures only make the steering lighter and twitchier.

A friend lets his front run down to 32 PSI before he will put air in. He gets about 10% longer tread life than I. But his FJR steers like a fat pig the last 25% or so of the front tire's life. Mine rides great right up to the end starting with 36 PSI every morning.
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post #9 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 08:04 AM
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What red said is correct, I ended up with between 39-40psi in the front and 40-42psi in the rear, all cold. The tps shows the tires increase in pressure by 5-8psi generally depending on ambient temp, speed and load, may go as high as 10psi.

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post #10 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 08:22 AM
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. . . or Yamaha is simply going to tell you wrong for the heck of it.
No, but MamaYama has always told us that the correct torque setting for the engine drain bolt is 31 lb.-ft. when we know that is too high. And they have never fixed it.

For that matter the FSM consistently defines torque wrong. They call it "foot-pounds" instead of "pounds-feet".
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