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1st gear grind

6K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  RaYzerman 
#1 ·
I have an 05 with a tranny grind issue that someone here might be able to help me resolve. The bike has 11,000 miles on it. I can start the bike cold or fully warmed up and it will click smoothly into 1st gear, but if I start the bike and let it run for just a minute and then put it in gear it grinds so badly that I generally shut it off, put it in gear and then restart to avoid the grind.

RPM at cold start up I think is about 2000.
Clutch feels good, but I have not preformed any adjustment procedure.
I've owned the bike for less than a year.
An oil change made no difference.
Should I tell the wife that Santa should just bring me a new one?
 
#2 ·
I have an 05 with a tranny grind issue that someone here might be able to help me resolve. The bike has 11,000 miles on it. I can start the bike cold or fully warmed up and it will click smoothly into 1st gear, but if I start the bike and let it run for just a minute and then put it in gear it grinds so badly that I generally shut it off, put it in gear and then restart to avoid the grind. RPM at cold start up I think is about 2000. Clutch feels good, but I have not preformed any adjustment procedure. I've owned the bike for less than a year. An oil change made no difference. Should I tell the wife that Santa should just bring me a new one?
Rusty,

I'd say definitely, have Santa bring you a new one. :cool:

What happens if you pull the clutch all the way in, and blip the throttle a few times, before engaging first (or second) gear? It sounds like you may have warped or dirty clutch plates. A complete aftermarket clutch pack will not be very expensive, as compared to OEM parts. Dirty or dry clutch plates will be easy and cheap to fix - there are procedures posted here, and you don't even need to drain the engine oil first. We call the job a "Clutch Soak" for obvious reasons. You might also Search here for better brands of oil, but I'm sure not going to get into that, so have fun, there.

Cheers,
Red
 
#11 ·
Red, thanks! I remember reading about the Clutch Soak. This afternoon I tried squeezing the clutch lever a few times and also holding the lever in for a bit prior to attempting 1st gear, but it did not seem to help. I'll try the throttle blip idea tomorrow when it's cold again.
 
#3 ·
You said that you try to put it in gear after about one minute..I assume that after about one minute if the bike is cold the rpms are around 1500+...It is pretty normal the grind at those rpms.But also you said that it happens and when the bike is warm.
Try to change the clutch fluid firstly to see what happens.If the problem still there remove the clutch cover and have a look at the plates..Perhaps you will find them dry.A pretty common fjr problem.Do an oil bath at the plates and reinstall them..
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the suggestions, but my opening statement may not have been clear. I can do a cold start and immediately drop it in 1st smoothly. No Chunk and No Grind. It's only when I place it in gear after about one minute following a cold start (1700rpm) that it grinds. Once it's fully warmed up it again does fine. If it's an issue with RPM's it seems it would grind at the 2000-2200 rpm cold start up, but it does not.
I can and have lived with this, but I've decided to resolve the issue if I can. I'm about to leave for a ride and will try working the clutch a few times and or simply holding it in for a bit prior to that shift and see what happens.
Thanks again : )
 
#4 ·
my 05 clunked pretty good sticking it into first sometimes, same as you, I would sometimes leave it in 1st, after a while I just got used to the clunk, and as you say it was noticeable more on the first time. Pretty sure it's just the nature of the beast. Just give it a good quick stab with the foot and get it over with fast.
 
#12 ·
Yes, I get the clunk at times, but this is a grind. Gears are not meshing..... At least I know now that the clunk is kinda normal. My friends FZ1 does that too. Thanks!
 
#5 ·
Make sure that you are using an oil that is the correct specification.
The engine oil has to lubricate the engine, clutch and gearbox as well as keeping the clutch plates clean.
I have only ever used Yamalube 10/40 semi synthetic and over 5 FJRs and nearly 300,000 miles have never had a problem and have never had to do a clutch soak
 
#13 ·
Good to know... I don't know what the previous owner used, but I am running a full synthetic with correct designation and after three thousand miles since that oil change I still have the grind. I'm getting lots of good input and I really appreciate it :smile2:
 
#6 ·
According to how my '07 reacts, your '05 is perfectly normal. What I do when it's warmed up a minute or so is to cycle the clutch lever 3 or 4 times then aggressively put it in 1st. It will CLUNK loudly, always has, but it will ggrrrind if I don't, always has. Don't be timid when shifting, do it briskly and firmly.
 
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#14 ·
Hey Russ,
So yours does it too. Hmmmmm.. Does it click in smooth if you forgo the warm up like mine will? That's what I generally do. Start it, drop it in gear and go.
Thanks for your post!
Rusty
 
#7 ·
yeah, don't lollygag it into gear. I've found that I can pull the clutch and wait about 5 secs for the stuff to stop spinning, and then it will click in quietly.

Don't let it grind off your dog points any more.

In the mornings, I pull the clutch and move the bike to break the clutch plates free, then I start it in gear and take off right away.
 
#15 ·
I tried the 5 second clutch pull today, but still got the grind.. I'll try moving the bike next time. I generally don't let it grind. I've learned some work arounds, but until today I thought something was wrong. Now I'm hearing it may just be nature of the beast. I'll live with it if I must. It's a minor annoyance and I really love this bike!
Thanks for your comment!
 
#9 ·
They all do that, Sir!

You can mitigate the problem. Mine was pretty bad, so bad the clutch could be felt dragging at stop lights. Changing the fluid, which was only a year old, went a long way to fixing that.

Also, if you have the clutch lever adjusted to bring it nearer to the bars, back it off to allow the lever to push more fluid for greater plate separation. Soak the clutch as detailed above and if it is high-mileage, change the plates.

It's a simple system, there is not much more you can do.

If you have to get into the clutch, make sure the plates haven't worn grooves in the basket. If they have the plates will drag on the basket and not separate correctly. You can dress the basket with a file.
 
#17 ·
Yes, it occurs only after the bike has has been idling in neutral for about one minute.
The sound is a grind. BZZzzk? Where did that come from. LOL..
Thanks R!der!
 
#19 ·
There is one other factor worth noting about the clutch mechanism.

If you have gone through the system, replacing fluid, adjusting lever for more throw, soaking plates or changing them, dressing the basket, etc ....

After all of that, the only other parts that can cause a dragging clutch are the cylinders, master and slave.

If fluid is leaking back through a failed seal in either, you could experience problems getting the clutch to fully disengage.

It's just something worth bearing in mind.
 
#22 ·
All very good information. Thanks for taking the time and sharing your experience.

Rusty
 
#21 ·
new always works .............

when a clutch stack is actuated while clicking thru the gears
oil dripz & is thrown out [ rinse cycle ]

while sitting in your garage days / weeks at a time
while cruising down the hiway at speed
[ by example possibly a tankful at a time ....]

oil is trapped between the friction plates & drive plates
at rest after cool down they get very sticky ....................

while riding at speed the residual trapped oil
is baked at near in a zip code approx 180 - 210 degrees
a hot sticky ****

no less pulling in or at the end of a ride
the residual oil is trapped
baked
sticky
all adding up to wonky actuation

question IS .........??
if U go out to crank up after bike has been sitting in gear overnite

a- do U feel a tug initially until the engine fires up ??

bike feels like it wants to move a little

slight lurch ??
 
#23 ·
Although I have experienced what you describe, that slight tug is not the norm.
If it matters, through out the year the bike rarely sits for more than a few days and never more than two weeks.

I appreciate your input!
 
#24 ·
Well everyone, huge THANKS for all the input. I now have a much better feel for how to approach my little issue and best of all, any fix mentioned will not be hugely complicated or expensive. It just seem odd that I can achieve a nice consistent smooth shift at cold start high rpm, but not a minute later at say 1700. Still wonder what would explain that, but now I have the information needed to get it dialed in.
BTW, got out for another really nice ride between storms yesterday afternoon. My planned one hour ride went to three. I've always loved riding in that "calm before the storm" and the rain arrived about 5min. after the bike was tucked away in the garage. PERFECT!!!
Thanks for all the advice,
Rusty
 
#26 ·
I've never really had the kerchunk issue as bad as most, and never have a grind issue unless I didn't hold the lever to the bar (or had the lever misadjusted, or had a worn lever bushing, or had old clutch fluid). Start by getting all the basics in top shape, and if you still have a problem, dig into the clutch plates, etc. as Steve suggests. Never a bad idea to do a clutch plate clean and soak.... not to start an oil debate, but sometimes that can have an effect. Perhaps try a different one next oil change as an experiment, say Rotella 15W40. A bit higher viscosity is likely to be somewhat better for shift quality overall.
 
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