Final Drive seal - Page 3 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Final Drive seal (6 months later)

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Originally Posted by Little Joe View Post
Sorry for the confusion, even confused myself. I got it turned around in my description.
I am referring to seal pt # 93101-30084-00 and #5 on the rear drive parts fiche.
It's not the big seal, or the big oring, but the "small" seal that is actually (doh) on the most inner part of drive on the left side (as it sits on the bike.
If you have oil on the axle spacer inside where it resides, then the culprit seal is this one. Hope that is more clear than mud
Joe, it appears I should have listened to you. Today I removed the real wheel for tire replacement and there it was, a small amount of oil spilling out from around the axle spacer. Gotta be that #5 seal you pointed out. Sounds like I better order a bearing and seal. Just glad I found it now rather than mid summer.
THANKS JOE!
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 09:09 PM
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Final Drive seal

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Originally Posted by Rusty2 View Post
ok, i'll check it out : )
Sorry if I'm late to the game, but something else that might do the job is a rear end swap from eBay. These 2005 final drives usually go for US$100.00 ~ $300.00 complete there, and you can be down the road in a day. Then you can take your time with rebuilding the one you have now. The eBay site makes it easy to get a full refund if anything is wrong with your item, so it's easy to score there, without much risk. Just deal with the "experienced" sellers rather than first-timers.
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Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$25.00).
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:18 PM
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Congrats on a job well done! :-)

I also find it hard to imagine a failure in that area, but I suppose there's bound to one here or there.
My '99 Virago 1100 went up to 46,000 miles and saw no signs of trouble in the rear end.
I beat it like a redheaded step child, but I changed the oil every 10K and lubed the splines every tire change.
That's basically the exact same rear end design for all Yamaha's for decades.

And finally......
For the benefit of others still reading,
What didn't used to be written in the manuals was,
when you are bolting everything back together,
you install the 4 bolts holding the rear drive to the swingarm barely finger tight,
then you tighten the axle down first to avoid alignment issues.
The last thing you do is torque up the 4 bolts to the swing arm.
Class dismissed! LOL

Dave P.
2004 FJR1300 ABS

Last edited by GuitarDave; 04-22-2017 at 12:36 AM.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 12:32 AM
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Rusty2 you are welcome. Sometimes oil leaks can be sneaky and the real source is not always apparent.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuitarDave View Post

And finally......
For the benefit of others still reading,
What didn't used to be written in the manuals was,
when you are bolting everything back together,
you install the 4 bolts holding the rear drive to the swingarm barely finger tight,
then you tighten the axle down first to avoid alignment issues.
The last thing you do is torque up the 4 bolts to the swing arm.
Class dismissed! LOL
I've seen this before, and remain unconvinced of the necessity.

The UJ takes care of drive-shaft alignment, and I've never had issues with the rear axle sliding right in.

It is possible that the rear axle alignment might be improved by tightening the axle first. Set against that is the difficulty of getting a torque wrench on the acorn nuts, with the rear tire in the way.

So I'm neither for nor against ... but I do wonder if this is simply "forum gossip".
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 01:03 AM
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If it is, it's 30 yr old gossip. LOL
It made sense to me, so when I lubed the splines on the old bike, that's what I did.
In general, when I have a lot of assembly to complete on any machinery, furniture, tooling or whatever,
I have a habit of snugging everything up a little bit at a time and going around a few times.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by GuitarDave View Post
If it is, it's 30 yr old gossip. LOL
It made sense to me, so when I lubed the splines on the old bike, that's what I did.
In general, when I have a lot of assembly to complete on any machinery, furniture, tooling or whatever,
I have a habit of snugging everything up a little bit at a time and going around a few times.
My guess is that when you put 80 ft lbs on the axle bolt, it takes care of any minor mis-alignment of the pumpkin. Those acorn bolts are really not very tight. They don't have to be, with the rear axle holding the unit tight.

Also, I'm thinking that if alignment was super critical in that area, Yamaha would have keyed the pumpkin to the driveshaft tube ...

Steve

2005 Yamaha FJR1300A
2006 Yamaha FJR1300AE

Last edited by Steve Bracken; 04-22-2017 at 01:27 AM.
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuitarDave View Post
If it is, it's 30 yr old gossip. LOL
It made sense to me, so when I lubed the splines on the old bike, that's what I did.
In general, when I have a lot of assembly to complete on any machinery, furniture, tooling or whatever,
I have a habit of snugging everything up a little bit at a time and going around a few times.
I was taught/lectured by my dad to ALWAYS "go around a few times" and to use "star patterns" when putting "anything" together so imagine my surprise, while at Daytona, watching "professional" mechanics change out brake rotors, just tightening each bolt down once.
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Last edited by philharmonic; 04-22-2017 at 03:12 AM.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philharmonic View Post
I was taught/lectured by my dad to ALWAYS "go around a few times" and to use "star patterns" when putting "anything" together so imagine my surprise, while at Daytona, watching "professional" mechanics change out brake rotors, just tightening each bolt down once.
That's the difference between someone working on his own stuff and someone else working on other peoples' stuff on commission. Do it right or do it fast to pay the bills.

Some new guys may not have seen this, it's an old post originally from May 2009. It's why my bike doesn't go to "professionals on commission" >>https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/265377-post8.html<<

Russ
2007A

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