The Ground Spider Comes Home to Roost - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-06-2016, 03:18 PM
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We ran into the same problem with my 08 this year, it had been recalled back in 2011. Luckily the spider was not damaged so we were able to clean, lube and solder in a ground. Luckily our failure occurred when the bike was stationary warming up, I would not have liked this to happen while riding, so we will be servicing the critical spiders annually from now on.

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post #12 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Alrighty, I gots us some pics. The whole thing centers around getting the wiring harness pulled up into the engine compartment to access the S4 Spider for repair.


3 of 4 dash panels removed- remember no solenoid power for glovebox and left lower cowling removed.. Where the S4 spider is is actually a 'T' in the wiring harness. When you look down from the top it goes down and forward. A few better pics follow. Screwdriver points to part of the harness containing 3 plugs to be undone. On the right where the boot cover is by the exposed wires are 2 big plugs. The circle shows the S6 spider.


Small plugs undone


Big plugs undone

Russ
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post #13 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Circle shows the little chute where this section of 'T" gets pushed up into to gain slack in the engine compartment.


Screwdriver points to the object of my desires- the main wiring harness- to be pulled up. You can see the burned S4 spider on the right.



And the offending wiring in the S4. I later learned that this one small wire carries all the current collected in the spider back to the main ground wire. Also note- the straight sections of harness are covered with a folded wrap like a sticky note folded together with the sticky glue holding it closed. The 'T' section is plain ol' electrical tape.



The arrow shows the coolant hose clamp removed to gain a little room. In this pic, by pushing up from the bottom and tugging up from the top you can see the harness starting to cooperate.



And now time to carefully unwrap





Once the tape is removed you can see what I meant about the sticky note-type cover

Russ
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post #14 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Once untaped/unwrapped you can see there's a lot of wire to work with. See the electrical tape on the big black wire on the right? That's the main ground wire.



Unwrapping it exposed a crimp connector with small wires from various places.




Circle on right is crimp connector. Circle on left- curved wire- is the single wire that carries all the current from the spider back to the main ground wire. I twisted together that one wire with the 3 coming up from the bottom and soldered those 4 wires together



Left circle shows wires 4 wires soldered. The remaining 2 wires form the spider: I stripped back some insulation from the main ground wire, twisted the 2 wires onto it and soldered. I also tinned the crimp connector and other wires connected there.




And voila!! Bikes runs. No hiccups yet!!


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So that's that. Except it's a complete PITA to attempt to re-wrap/tape the harness this way. There's simply just not enough room. So the plan is to drain the coolant and remove the coolant pipe. And since I'm going through all this, while I'm here I'm going to do the S5 (coolant sensor area) and the S6 (glovebox area) spiders the same way. I'll take pics but I don't see any need to post them unless someone wants to see them.
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post #15 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 02:49 PM
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So sorry this happened to you, so glad you documented the repair. Thank you.
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07 FJR 48,000 miles 03 Yamaha FJR1300
1986 Yamaha FZX700 1977 Kawasaki KX250 1978? Yamaha TY250 1979 Yamaha YZ250 1970 850 Moto Guzzi 1974? Honda XL 100 1978? Yamaha XT500 1975 Yamaha RD350B 1964 Bridgestone 90S
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post #16 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philharmonic View Post
So sorry this happened to you, so glad you documented the repair. Thank you.
Thanks for the sympathy . I can honestly say I'm not all that concerned or troubled by it, I think since it's been so well discussed and researched on all the forums. I [we?] know that despite our best maintenance efforts and Mammy Yammy's "recalls" it's gonna happen sooner or later. The real measure is how prepared each of us is, how we react to it and how we go about our day repairing it. I tried my best to consoladate the symptoms and the details of this particular repair for folks b/c I believe that as our effected bikes enter their 10 y/o anniversary this will become more prevalent. And with the weather as it currently is seems I have all the time in the world. Plus where I'm working (my carport) is on the leeward end of the house, the kitchen end, nearest the coffeepot. How cool is that? So despite the malfunction all the good in the world has come my way this weekend!

In fact, the wifie and I are supposed to be hitting the party circuit this evening- former coworker's 60th birthday. Cookout, horseshoes and badminton, corn hole- the works!! I dug out my golf umbrella. Check! Poncho? Check! Aluminium frame yard chairs and anchors? Check! Beer cooler with ice? Check! Beer? Nah, we opted for Mike's Hard Lemonade Party Pack. Check! Never been to an outdoor hurricane party . Ever play badminton in [currently] 20-30 mph wind? Me either. Oughta be interesting. If we tough it out past 8 or 9 pm Big Ol' Matt should start moving away from where we are.
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post #17 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 10:28 PM
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Russ, just want to say thank you for this great write up, so a silly question that I am pretty sure I already know the answer to is are the gen 3's also affected by this ? I have always made a habit of every time I pull an electrical connector on any of my bikes I clean all accessible connectors and dielectric grease them. Honda is really bad about connectors being non-water proof whereas the fjr seems to be better but after looking at your write up,I suspect the spiders are just a poor design. Any inputs or advice on the gen 3's? And I just want to say thanks for the excellent write up again.
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post #18 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 09:56 AM
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It does appear the GenIII's also have spiders, some on the power side as well as ground. They are taped to the harnesses so may not be visible until you untape them to see what's under the tape. The good news (we think), is the wiring is better in that there doesn't seem to be the heavy loads that the lightweight GenII spider wiring couldn't handle. Someday over the winter, I'm going to dig in and do some preventative maintenance anyway, can't hurt. Ground spiders would benefit more from contact paste rather than dielectric, but either way you're preventing future issues. On my GenII I was fortunate enough to get a Brodie harness, which was overdesigned and definitely put away any worries.
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post #19 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Alrighty then, back to MY thread since it's MY spider bite and I'm the only one that matters . Ha!!

So, what I've learned here is that if you're going to cut out and solder at the S4 spider, save yourself the hassle. Go ahead and drain your coolant and remove the dang coolant pipe. You'll be glad you did it in the beginning instead of the middle like I did.

Enough pics were marked previously you should see here that I've removed the coolant pipe to gain access room all around the wire harness. You actually gain a lot of room by taking the pipe out so just do it! Note the big hose straight above my ring finger, opening staring right at us. That hose goes down and bends left as we see it here. Pushing it down and pulling out from the bottom really helps gain room to work, too.





And then everything topside reassembled. Note- the coolant pipe cap screws are m6-1.0. I dropped one and had to to fetch another. It's down in the bowels of the engine somewhere below the throttle bodies. Who knows, maybe it'll fall out someday.


I then moved around to the S6 spider. Unwrap, blah, blah, same as before. Cut, solder and wrap up.




Refill with coolant, put the plastics on etc., etc. In all not a bad job if you take your time and take lots of pics to refer back to. Only dropped and lost that 1 screw. Had no leftover parts or fasteners. Plus I used this snap lid type box with movable dividers for screws, rivets, etc. Once you get in the habit of re-snapping the lid every single time you open it, it doesn't matter how many times you drop it things stay put and nothing gets mixed up. Please don't ask how many times I dropped, kicked or swore at this poor box.


So that's it. Hope someone somewhere someday is helped by all this. Over and out.

Russ
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Last edited by rbentnail; 10-09-2016 at 05:48 PM.
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post #20 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 07:54 PM
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I had a thought today, while riding my 07 FJR and thinking about maybe having to go through this procedure a thousand of miles from home and all my tools and soldering iron.

If we know the two or three spiders that cause most of the spider problems, and since we know {I think} that it's not ALL the wires but the ground wire that overheats and causes the damage to the other wires.

Why don't we just cut that ground wire off on both sides of the three spiders, bypass it with a piece of good wire and solder and double heat shrink both sides.

Not only would this avoid the main problem, which is the corrosion that builds up [and then HEAT} at that poor contact area inside the spider. But it would also keep the ground wire from burning up all the other wires if it ever DID overheat.

Seems cutting and splicing three wires {or even more} NOW would be worth it for the peace of mind.

I probably don't know what I am talking about here, so please be gentle. I am NOT an electrician OR a mechanic. {I did stay in a Holiday Inn once}.

07 FJR 48,000 miles 03 Yamaha FJR1300
1986 Yamaha FZX700 1977 Kawasaki KX250 1978? Yamaha TY250 1979 Yamaha YZ250 1970 850 Moto Guzzi 1974? Honda XL 100 1978? Yamaha XT500 1975 Yamaha RD350B 1964 Bridgestone 90S
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