Hydraulic Clutch Upgrade? - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Hydraulic Clutch Upgrade?

I'm a home health worker in NYC. I ride all over town all day with lots of constant stop and go. It's starting to take it's toll on my left hand.
Does anyone have a suggestion?
Is there a hydraulic upgrade that would make squeezing the lever easier?

Thank you
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jmagranniii View Post
I'm a home health worker in NYC. I ride all over town all day with lots of constant stop and go. It's starting to take it's toll on my left hand.
Does anyone have a suggestion?
Is there a hydraulic upgrade that would make squeezing the lever easier?

Thank you
What year do you have? If you have a Gen 1 {2003-2005} you can install a 2016 or later "assist and slipper" clutch for around 350 US dollars. {just google it, plenty of info}

If you have a Gen.2 2006 or 2007 you can install a Gen 1 03-05 clutch slave cylinder {30-40 dollars on Ebay} and it will be a lighter pull, OR you can do the "assist and slipper" clutch upgrade which people tell me has even a lighter pull.

If you have a Gen 2 2008-2012, OR a Gen. 3 2013-2015 you can only do the "assist and slipper clutch" upgrade, or design a system of your own with lighter clutch springs.

I used to sit in front of the TV with a pair of those "spring hand grip strengtheners" when I was young and dumb. That helped.

Anti-cramping pills?

I hear it helps to be hyrated and eat banana's.

Good luck, I put a Gen. 1 clutch slave cylinder on my 07 and it helped a lot.

Mama Yama changed the clutch ratio in 2006 so the "throw" of the clutch rod would be LONGER, to help the new AE "auto clutch" system work better, and didn't think it was worth it to keep the Gen. 1 slave cylinders on the bikes that DIDN"T HAVE the new "auto-clutch" system. Laziness???

I hear that by 2008 Mama Yama went back to putting the "easier pull" clutch's on the "A" models. I don't know if that is true, I never rode one. LOL
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Last edited by rbentnail; 06-24-2020 at 04:58 PM.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmagranniii View Post
I'm a home health worker in NYC. I ride all over town all day with lots of constant stop and go. It's starting to take it's toll on my left hand. Does anyone have a suggestion? Is there a hydraulic upgrade that would make squeezing the lever easier?Thank you
jmagranniii,

At the risk of being obvious, it helps to keep the clutch lever pivot lubricated, using the best available products. There is also a brass bushing inside the lever (which presses the master cylinder rod) that also needs good lubrication. You may find a longer clutch lever that will help, or simply move the stock lever assembly farther away from the hand-grip, so you are pulling at the end part of the clutch lever, not at the middle of the lever.

When I was young and dumb, I once had a competition clutch in my street bike. To help resist hand fatigue, I set the angle of the lever assembly so it made a straight line with my shoulder, straight arm/hand/fingers, and the lever. I could "hook" the lever with my fingertips and just lean back, to pull the clutch at a traffic light. My hand finally built up to do the job, but it took some time. The right hydraulics might do what you need, but that "fix" may be somewhat expensive.
.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 02:27 PM
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In addition, Gen3 clutch slave has same bore/stroke as the Gen1. Might help to put on aftermarket (long) levers, yes the Chinese ones are OK in my book. With the Gen1/3 slave, the lever travel will be longer as the slave cylinder bore is larger, so may have to move the lever adjustment out a bit more.
As Phil says, slipper clutch will get you another ~15-20% lighter pull, perhaps consider it if you do a lot of stop and go....

Definitely lube up the lever pivots and that brass bushing, I use silicone grease that won't wash out. Get a new brass bushing if worn oval/scored.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 03:38 PM
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Could get a master cylinder (the clutch lever assembly) with smaller piston. Or possibly some other year FJR uses a slave cylinder which is larger than the one you have. Either will reduce the effort at the cost of less motion at the clutch.

That I know from experience, the 2016+ clutch is noticeably less effort than 2014. Crude effort with fish scale suggested 20% easier.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 06:47 PM
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Jmag...no upgrade will make it completely painless, i have a '17ES 6 speed and it's a "workout" ....i suggest take advantage of this Covid situation, and you being a health worker... talk to your dealer (s) and see if you can get a "Covid/ frontline health worker Special" on DCT Africa Twin or a Wing bagger...no more clutching pain guaranteed 😄

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 10:39 PM
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You should play with the available adjustment at the master cylinder. The round chrome knob affects the position of the lever. Maybe easier for you if the lever is closer to the handlebars. Or easier if farther away. Is adjustable to let you find out for yourself.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-25-2020, 09:12 AM
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You could always get some kind of small car with an automatic transmission to do the stop-and-go traffic for work and save your FJR (and your left hand) for fun on the weekends.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-25-2020, 09:45 PM
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You could always get some kind of small car with an automatic transmission to do the stop-and-go traffic for work and save your FJR (and your left hand) for fun on the weekends.
Yes. A Prius will get an honest 50 MPG in town.

Two year old off-lease Nissan LEAF can be had for $12,000. Cost about 3Ę/mile for electricity.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 08:23 AM
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Any vehicle can do well if you ride it for MPG instead of performance. I remember a BMW that got better MPG than a Prius when all the M3 had to do was tag along closely behind the Prius trying to go as fast as it could.



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