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David Shelton 06-14-2020 02:45 AM

New to me '05 FJR
 
8 Attachment(s)
This could be too long for some, so skip to the second main paragraph for my bike ?'s please. I am located in Danville KY if any other riders local.

Hello fellow 2 wheel addicts, first time Yamaha owner, first official post, haven't been able to even lurk as it has taken me numerous attempts to get back in to this account. I ran across this group some time back when I started researching about the mighty FJR. A little bit about me, I have been riding off and on for 45 years total. Started on a Honda Elsinore MR50 that I got at the age of 4 and my sanity has never been the same without having a bike. Fast forward and went into the Air Force at 18, injured at 21, and out of the service at 24. Messed up my back and shoulders pretty bad. Picked riding back up in 2003 when I bought a 2003 Honda Magna, spent a fortune on engine/suspension mods having a blast with it. Pulled it out of the garage spring of '07 made it 1 mile and barely made it back the same way. Now I was never one to slow down through out my life or live any other way than wide open, and I have spent the early part of the 2000's pissed off and angry with myself because I never did slow down and had to learn or become permanently paralyzed or wheel chair bound to get around. Fast forward to the last 5 years or so, and I got so good at sitting around and doing nothing I've watched life go by as I have been raising my 20 year old daughter on my own with no help from anyone. She's managed to turn out alright for having a grumpy old goat doing it. LOL For the last 2-3 years, I have been obsessing about a new toy...a boat? a jet ski? a trike? So then I got to wanting a Can Am Spyder, probably the most sensible decision I SHOULD have made, but tired of not enjoying the freedom or two wheel therapy!!!!

I purchased this 2005 FJR three days ago from a 72 yo man with 43,084 miles on it, no issues that I could find, or he knew of, always dealer serviced to book religion, and immaculately kept. NOW FOR MY ISSUE. After riding it 70 miles the first night I noticed fork oil leaking as it has been sitting for a little bit, and now 15 years old, no biggie needs new seals. NOW I am 6' 290lbs my daughter 6'1" and 165lbs and will be riding with me some ( she started riding with me when she was 4 ) I noticed in a thread folks talking about rear sub frame breaking from, what I am assuming prolonged use and/or a passenger that is relying on too much support from the factory trunk. I have already sent a pm to Garuald about wanting the highway peg, radar, stiffy kit... BUT can someone please elaborate on this subframe issue as I am now having images of my daughter, or other female friends possibly departing the bike at some ill timed point.

When I have the forks rebuilt, with me being 290 lbs, what is the recommendation of you folks for upgrading to Progressive springs? or should I consider another company if there is one? I say Progressive because that is who I used for my Magna build up.

The PO had installed HELI bar risers, but I would like to straighten the bar handles out a little bit, what company do I look to for that possibility?

What other mods/upgrades for the Gen1 is recommended? Thinking I want to add more lights to the front forks as well.

Thanks for tuning in

hipi111 06-14-2020 06:58 AM

i hate to be the guy who always says this but since i have one where it happened to i dont want any of you guys to have your engine blown up. yes you guys on the forum guessed right im talking about the CCT.
the CCT is a part thats known to fail on the earlier gens so this should be changed if it hasn't been already. the cct is located on the right side of the bike on the top side of the engine (check attachment) so the way to check if it has been changed out is to see if theres a colored dot on there green or blue. the spring in the original one gets weak and bc of that your engine skips timing and bends your valves and can actually break your pistons too.


http://twigg.smugmug.com/Motorcyling...DSCN0097-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-pFBw324-O.jpg

passx 06-14-2020 07:55 AM

David, first off, welcome ! I love magna’s , very underrated in my opinion.

On your FJR, Sven’s advice above is spot-on and something that really needs to be done ASAP if it has the oe CCT. Good job Sven! On the subframe, in my opinion your passengers aren’t in danger, the part that breaks is under the top box, if you pull the seats off and look back under the tail piece where the tail lights go you’ll see a couple of vertical struts and at the bottom of those is where it breaks. Take a look.

Now with that said the stiffy by itself will not prevent a broken subframe but it will prevent the piece’s like your top box, tail light and rear fender from littering the highway behind you. The only things that will prevent the subframe from breaking need to support the tab/tongue that extends out under the rear rack. Flexing of that tab/tongue is transferred through those struts you see by the tailights into the lower frame and causes the cracks.

At this point the only things that take the load off the tab and prevent it’s flexing are the Yamaha heavy aluminum rear rack which had it been oe standard we wouldn’t be talking about this, or you can also use the givi sr357 or the similar Shad tube rack, those are your choices. I have added the Yamaha aluminum rack to my2014 after my subframe broke with a stuffy installed. It is the most expensive option.

Looking at your photo’s it looks like you have a Yamaha accessory top box from when your bike was new along with the accepted for that time mount, personally I would not run the top box until you get a different mount installed, just asking to break the subframe! Even empty, just the shaking of the box (25lbs) going down the road puts enough stress and movement into the rear tab that is transferred through the struts and into the lower subframe that cracks/breaks. I would not run the topbox in the current setup.

On the suspension, some of the more knowledgeable experts hopefully will be along and add their advice, but I’ll add that recommendations usually include using straight rate springs from suppliers like traxxion or racetech are better than the Progressive piece’s and a late model gen 3/3.5 model rear shock seems to be the “hot” setup for the earlier bikes. I used Racetech front springs and emulators on my 81 cbx and will say that it was a good transformation. I also used their seals & bushings that were supposed to be lower stiction piece’s, I’m happy with the very noticeable results.

As far as the seal leak you may try a Seal Mate tool which is basically a thin piece of plastic used to get under the seal lip to clear anything trapped there, you could make one from a piece of milk jug as well. Several here have had good results.

David Shelton 06-14-2020 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hipi111 (Post 1261483)
i hate to be the guy who always says this but since i have one where it happened to i dont want any of you guys to have your engine blown up. yes you guys on the forum guessed right im talking about the CCT.
the CCT is a part thats known to fail on the earlier gens so this should be changed if it hasn't been already. the cct is located on the right side of the bike on the top side of the engine (check attachment) so the way to check if it has been changed out is to see if theres a colored dot on there green or blue. the spring in the original one gets weak and bc of that your engine skips timing and bends your valves and can actually break your pistons too.


http://twigg.smugmug.com/Motorcyling...DSCN0097-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-pFBw324-O.jpg

EXACTLY the info I am looking for!!!! Much appreciated. Is this a simple break out the tools and torque wrench and swap out, or is it a specific process?

Thanks

David Shelton 06-14-2020 04:38 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by passx (Post 1261485)
David, first off, welcome ! I love magnaís , very underrated in my opinion.

On your FJR, Svenís advice above is spot-on and something that really needs to be done ASAP if it has the OE CCT. Good job Sven! On the subframe, in my opinion your passengers arenít in danger, the part that breaks is under the top box, if you pull the seats off and look back under the tail piece where the tail lights go youíll see a couple of vertical struts and at the bottom of those is where it breaks. Take a look.

Now with that said the stiffy by itself will not prevent a broken subframe but it will prevent the pieceís like your top box, tail light and rear fender from littering the highway behind you. The only things that will prevent the subframe from breaking need to support the tab/tongue that extends out under the rear rack. Flexing of that tab/tongue is transferred through those struts you see by the taillights into the lower frame and causes the cracks.

At this point the only things that take the load off the tab and prevent itís flexing are the Yamaha heavy aluminum rear rack which had it been oe standard we wouldnít be talking about this, or you can also use the givi sr357 or the similar Shad tube rack, those are your choices. I have added the Yamaha aluminum rack to my 2014 after my subframe broke with a stuffy installed. It is the most expensive option.

Looking at your photoís it looks like you have a Yamaha accessory top box from when your bike was new along with the accepted for that time mount, personally I would not run the top box until you get a different mount installed, just asking to break the subframe! Even empty, just the shaking of the box (25lbs) going down the road puts enough stress and movement into the rear tab that is transferred through the struts and into the lower subframe that cracks/breaks. I would not run the topbox in the current setup.

On the suspension, some of the more knowledgeable experts hopefully will be along and add their advice, but Iíll add that recommendations usually include using straight rate springs from suppliers like traxxion or racetech are better than the Progressive pieceís and a late model gen 3/3.5 model rear shock seems to be the ďhotĒ setup for the earlier bikes. I used Racetech front springs and emulators on my 81 cbx and will say that it was a good transformation. I also used their seals & bushings that were supposed to be lower stiction pieceís, Iím happy with the very noticeable results.

As far as the seal leak you may try a Seal Mate tool which is basically a thin piece of plastic used to get under the seal lip to clear anything trapped there, you could make one from a piece of milk jug as well. Several here have had good results.

Magna's are very under rated for sure. I was on my way to a stage 3 build up which would have put just a smidge over 100rwhp, sadly I only touched the surface at stage 1 when my riding got sidelined. Was one of the funnest bikes I have ever had. If Dyna still made the ignition modules for it, I would pick another one up and start back over, it is KEY to making those motors run the way they should.

I couldn't think of the Racetech name, forgot about Traxxion as well. Appreciated, and I am definitely waiting for the "pro's" advice on what works. I hate doing things twice, and wasting money in the process. Being 15 years old and almost 300lbs, I'd just rather go ahead and upgrade at this point. Will make the handling crisper and braking superior to my weight load.

As for the seating/frame area. I will take some pics and post them back to you for you to see what is what. My daughter will lean all she can with that trunk on and I know it, she's all I have and we are pretty connected at the hip even all we've been through together

PLEASE KEEP THE INFO COMING!!!! And how can I change my screen name, I don't know how my actual name got used, not that it's a big deal, but still

David Shelton 06-14-2020 05:25 PM

Can we not edit or add something to posts??

What brake pads are you folks using

David Shelton 06-14-2020 05:28 PM

What brake pads are preferred

Is there a seat that will give me some back support, or one that will give the most comfort might be better to word

hipi111 06-14-2020 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Shelton (Post 1261547)
EXACTLY the info I am looking for!!!! Much appreciated. Is this a simple break out the tools and torque wrench and swap out, or is it a specific process?

Thanks

it can be a bit fiddly since access to the cct is rather limited its recommended to have a ratchet wrench since getting to the 8mm bolts is very difficult

step 1 remove the crank case and ziptie the chain together so it wont jump any teeth while removing the cct
https://i.gyazo.com/678454a292105180...8146e95409.png


step 2 remove any plastics that are in the way of getting to the cct.

step 3 get a ratchet wrench 8mm to get those 2 bolts out you wont be able to get them out with a regular ratchet since the space you have to work with is limited pull them out and the cct make sure to check the cct gasket if you can reuse it or not

step 4 make a small groove in the 8mm bolts so you can fit a flat head screwdriver in this will make it easier to install and take off again if you ever need to

step 5 install the new cct and gasket make sure to pull the small T pin out once its bolted in so the chain is under tension and reverse the removal procedure

it's pretty standard you just dont have much room to work with thats the only main issue really and be sure you dont skip any timing

hipi111 06-14-2020 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Shelton (Post 1261559)
What brake pads are preferred

Is there a seat that will give me some back support, or one that will give the most comfort might be better to word

honestly im still building mine from the ground up and the break pads on mine still seem to have plenty of meat on it so ill be using whatever the cops used

David Shelton 06-14-2020 06:40 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by hipi111 (Post 1261563)
Quote:

Originally Posted by David Shelton (Post 1261547)
EXACTLY the info I am looking for!!!! Much appreciated. Is this a simple break out the tools and torque wrench and swap out, or is it a specific process?

Thanks

it can be a bit fiddly since access to the cct is rather limited its recommended to have a ratchet wrench since getting to the 8mm bolts is very difficult

step 1 remove the crank case and ziptie the chain together so it wont jump any teeth while removing the cct
https://i.gyazo.com/678454a292105180...8146e95409.png


step 2 remove any plastics that are in the way of getting to the cct.

step 3 get a ratchet wrench 8mm to get those 2 bolts out you wont be able to get them out with a regular ratchet since the space you have to work with is limited pull them out and the cct make sure to check the cct gasket if you can reuse it or not

step 4 make a small groove in the 8mm bolts so you can fit a flat head screwdriver in this will make it easier to install and take off again if you ever need to

step 5 install the new cct and gasket make sure to pull the small T pin out once its bolted in so the chain is under tension and reverse the removal procedure

it's pretty standard you just dont have much room to work with thats the only main issue really and be sure you dont skip any timing

I have the stock trunk and side bags.


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