New to me '05 FJR - Page 3 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #21 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 12:26 PM
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When you add the ziptie to the cam chain, be sure to mount it down close to the sprocket. When I did mine, I ziptied it about halfway down, and then when I lifted the cam to install the new parts the chain dropped down below the sprocket. Made for a bad day, as it's really hard to make sure you haven't skipped a tooth with the engine in the bike. Better to ziptie the chain very carefully. LOL
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post #22 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 12:35 PM
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Agree, zip tie down lower so it doesn't fall down off the crank sprocket. Can also rotate engine very slightly clockwise to take up any slack on the front side.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #23 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Howdy. Welcome to the forum. Some pretty country in Kentucky. Alas, you have what we call . . . Winter.



Thanks John!!!! Texas would be nice if it wasn't for the swampy humidity LOL My ex-wife is from Graham TX
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post #24 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Dave,

Lost in the flurry, but . . .

Are you sure you need new fork seals? Are they damaged? Usually there is just some dirt or grit in the seal rings, allowing the leak. The right fix then is a SealMate tool, US$5.00~$10.00 at the bike shops or on-line, or make your own from milk-jug plastic sheet (or similar). Slide in the tool carefully, snag the grit, and ease it out. Good as new, often-times. Since you are considering new seals now, the SealMate tool is a nothing-much-to-lose deal.

If you do get new seals, get the forks flushed out clean, and be aware that you may need new bushings or other things, while the forks are apart. Chances are, the SealMate tool will "repair" the leak, allowing the seals to seal properly again.
I have a small trail of fluid running down the left fork. I want to rebuild and upgrade the front fork as it seems to be pretty plush and not much tube left if I push down on the handlebars hard. I can almost fully collapse seal to fork.
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post #25 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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I'm sure glad we have people like you who repeats, always says the same stuff, and offers reminders for forgetful people (especially like me!). For us frequent visitors who have to "put up with" the same posts over and over and . . . I always remind myself that I too was a first-timer at one point and those repetitive-posts-for-some were lifelines and just wow! comments for me back then. Thank you for your time to educate our new members!
It gets old reading the same comments from the same people over and over and over, BUT glad to have those folks doing just that. We all started out knowing nothing in the beginning no matter what the hobby, job, or project is. I would rather have someone that takes the time to do it as it keeps the new people informed as it does take time to sit here and go back through old threads to learn, as is my case with these front forks. I want to rebuild them and make them better and driving me nuts to figure it out
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post #26 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 02:09 PM
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A fork seal leak of that magnitude might get cured temporarily with a good cleaning with a SealMate, however, if the seal is nicked at all, it won't.
The Gen1 forks are simple to rebuild... I'd just go ahead and do that... however, those bikes had very weak fork springs, undersprung for all but the lightest weights... might I also suggest a spring upgrade to get you in the ballpark.
Traxxion has a good plug and play fork spring kit, spacers & everything precut to what you need. After you install them, you'll find you have a new bike.

Now that rear shock.... same deal... either aftermarket or Gen3 shock will help immensely as spring rate is much higher.... how much do you weigh is the question.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
1999 VFR800Fi - Pearl Shining Yellow
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post #27 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Approximately how many miles of gas is in the tank once it starts blinking?

2005 FJR1300 non abs
Corbin Smuggler
Murph's peg lowering kit
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post #28 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
A fork seal leak of that magnitude might get cured temporarily with a good cleaning with a SealMate, however, if the seal is nicked at all, it won't.
The Gen1 forks are simple to rebuild... I'd just go ahead and do that... however, those bikes had very weak fork springs, undersprung for all but the lightest weights... might I also suggest a spring upgrade to get you in the ballpark.
Traxxion has a good plug and play fork spring kit, spacers & everything precut to what you need. After you install them, you'll find you have a new bike.

Now that rear shock.... same deal... either aftermarket or Gen3 shock will help immensely as spring rate is much higher.... how much do you weigh is the question.
I weigh 290lbs. That’s why my intention is to go ahead and upgrade because I can almost fully compress the front pushing it down a couple of times hard. Trying to decide if I want to go full out with emulator’s etc. You are second or third to recommend Traxxion

Thanks

2005 FJR1300 non abs
Corbin Smuggler
Murph's peg lowering kit
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post #29 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 07:31 PM
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Hey yeal!

I have a 2004
I am 6'3", 40" waist almost 300lbs and ride the bike hard.
Just had the forks gone through at the Yamaha Shop. I didn't want to deal with the fluid ($35.00 a bottle) I used the stock application fluid and replaced the guts. Talking to the TecH (20 years on Yamaha) He said the seals on our bikes are known to give out way to soon. He did suggest Race Tech or any aftermarket that you want as it becomes preference and pocket book than anything else.
I have the double Sargent seat I am ordering the back support for my wife here real soon. Its designed to work with the seat.
I have replaced the headlights for LED found some good ones on Ebay for $12 they are the Triangular design. Work great so far.
I am trying to find some Tail light LEDs to keep the power down.
I have a couple of pod lights I bought from Harbor Freight they are cheep and work great. I have them mounted to the fender bolts for now but am planning on moving them to just below the rear view mirrors. Need to make some brackets. Seen the Ideal on the Iron Butt Web site. Playing in the mountains after sundown gets dark fast. They give great light.
I don't use a tail pack as I pack light so far and able to keep necessities in the saddles and medium sized expandable tank pack.
I have the Bar Extenders and they work great. My rides are usually 2-3 hours and my shoulders and hands feel great. (I broke my shoulder in a violent low side at 130mph broke my left shoulder blade on the ridge. My left hand likes to go numb when it wants)
I use a Buddy Belt for when My wife or any passenger (Mom, Sister or Son) Look into them as they give great kidney support and gives the guest great options for hand holds. I fill a 3x shirt not many people can put their arms all the way around my torso. (working on it)

look into a new regulator rectifier and stater for better and more juice to the lights. The part number is the same for the some newer years. Do not skimp on the battery. Change out your Halogens for LED. If you ride during colder days there are some bark busters (hand Guards) that don't look to shabby and give great wind protection.
I have a big feet (14-15) and long legs (34" inseam) I ended up getting full race boots as they have better support and safety. I was grinding my little toes in the turns.

Since you are working on the forks you might want to rebuild the rear shock. I know when I hit a pot hole without standing my spirit gets pissed off with me. Keep your swing arm greased. Become more habitual on your down shifting before stopping. Check your turn signals as they do not turn themselves off. Don't forget to breath when you decide to see what 140 hp does (crack the whip).

But what ever you do under no circumstances ever ever ever ask these guys what oil to use!

Have fun in the twisties!
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post #30 of 64 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 07:32 PM
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I would not spend money on valving, the OEM is adequate IMHO. The biggest bang for the buck is new fork springs... do that anyway and ride for a while, get the damping dialed in and see what you think. It will cost you a whole $130. When you've got the springs in, set all the damping adjustments to 8 clicks out (clockwise) from fully seated and tweak from there.
When you re-do your forks, use a true 5W oil or 7.5W (mix of 5 + 10 if you have to), there is a Yamalube 7.5W available, but if not.... another brand will do.

The rear shock isn't going to cut it at all... A Gen3 shock likely would have to be on the HARD setting, and it will be a compromise... you should really go shopping for an aftermarket shock properly sprung and with damping adjustments.. keep an eye out for a used one and it can be re-sprung if necessary.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
1999 VFR800Fi - Pearl Shining Yellow
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