no mar tire changer. - Page 9 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #81 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-24-2020, 01:57 PM
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Absolutely zero doubt in my mind that I have better leverage, access and control when changing a tire on a tire changer than changing a tire on the floor.
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post #82 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-24-2020, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mobilemike View Post
Partially correct.

Pushing against something Adds poundage of pressure.

To push on something waist high your available poundage is from your upper body only. Legs, hips. and butt are out of the equation. The center of your mass is equal or below the object and off to the side,

To push on something on the floor your entire body weight is available. The center of your mass is above the object and can be centered.



Now if you want to throw in more variables like an assisting structure to hold the object, you must account for them equally. You can not compare processes when one has mechanical assistance that the other does not.

When I had my HF changer, I found it too high to get a good mechanical advantage... adequate, though I always wanted to cut it down 6". Cycle Hill for a floor mount as is, is definitely too low but entirely usable..... it was destined to be a hitch mount a fair bit higher... so I just built a sturdy base out of baltic birch and mounted it to a sheet of plywood I'd always have my feet on most of the time. Works great.
I spooned on a pair of dirt bike tires once and wondered how the heck anybody does trailside repairs... well, repairs OK but not replacing a tire on the trail, can't be easy.
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post #83 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-24-2020, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobilemike View Post
Partially correct.

Pushing against something Adds poundage of pressure.

To push on something waist high your available poundage is from your upper body only. Legs, hips. and butt are out of the equation. The center of your mass is equal or below the object and off to the side,

To push on something on the floor your entire body weight is available. The center of your mass is above the object and can be centered.
I can more easily apply my entire mass to something that is waist high than I can on the ground on my knees.

At waist high all I have to do is lock my arms and lift my feet.
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post #84 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-24-2020, 05:11 PM
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If you have to put your entire weight downward on a Nomar, you're not doing it right.

bike X miles=smiles
smiles ų bike=miles
smiles ų miles=bike.
It's simple math.

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post #85 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-24-2020, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dravnx View Post
If you have to put your entire weight downward on a Nomar, you're not doing it right.
Nobody said any different.

Wheel at waist high allows one to push or pull, lean into it. But a wheel on the ground requires one to hold it from scooting across the floor while pushing to make it scoot across the floor.

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post #86 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-24-2020, 10:29 PM
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If you have to put your entire weight downward on a Nomar, you're not doing it right.
Not all tire beads are created equal. Some on a NoMar it is pull down on the bead breaker and the bead is popped and others one is looking for an extension for the bead bar. Harley tire with a tube is a bitch and a Gold Wing one will do once and never want to do another one. I had one where I used a ratchet strap to hold the tire/wheel down on the NoMar while trying to break the bead. I also changed my truck tires with the NoMar that had 8 in wheels.

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post #87 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-25-2020, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ReRose View Post
Not all tire beads are created equal. Some on a NoMar it is pull down on the bead breaker and the bead is popped and others one is looking for an extension for the bead bar. Harley tire with a tube is a bitch and a Gold Wing one will do once and never want to do another one. I had one where I used a ratchet strap to hold the tire/wheel down on the NoMar while trying to break the bead. I also changed my truck tires with the NoMar that had 8 in wheels.
I once cut a tire off with a reciprocating saw. Do enough tires and every now and then one will kick your butt.
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post #88 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-25-2020, 07:34 AM
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I once cut a tire off with a reciprocating saw. Do enough tires and every now and then one will kick your butt.
Yepper, mine was my buddies r1200rs this past summer, what a bitch ! Bmw did not have a center under cut in the wheels so there was no place to offset the bead.

I can also add that I ainít changing tires on the floor anymore even if thereís more leverage ! Nomar Classic is some of the best money Iíve ever spent ! I have a lot of spoons & levers intended for truck tires and I use them at times with the no-mar and have used them on a floor mount/dismount but I can definitely say that my back & kneeís love my no-mar !
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post #89 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-25-2020, 10:43 AM
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I've done a GW and used an extension bar and ratchet strap to hold wheel. Had a buddy bring in a wheel off his CBX project. It had a HD tire that was old, cracked, stiff and some kind of run flat thing with a double bead. We ended up sawzalling it off. Couldn't get the bead to break for nothing.
I've never thought to myself "self, wish this NoMar was on the floor so I could get more leverage".
Doesn't matter anymore though. Sold the NoMar, which I bought used, for what I had into it and bought a used automatic tire changer off CL. Life is much better.
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bike X miles=smiles
smiles ų bike=miles
smiles ų miles=bike.
It's simple math.

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post #90 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-25-2020, 12:51 PM
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Iíve seen the videos but canít seem to hold everything else in the rim groove and walk the bar around wheel at same time. Takes more force than Iím willing to apply. Enough my rim starts slipping in clamps.

No-Mar says the bar/spoons are usually necessary on a GL1800 rear.
I had the same problem. What I have done is cut 1/2x3/4x2 pieces of PVC trim(Home Depot) or wood and have placed them between the rim and tire in several places around the tire, on the bottom and top. Helps to keep the tire in the center
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