RaYzerman, I have never run one model tire twice but for two RS3's in a row. The RS3 is a very light steering tire and with more than 39 PSI it is frightening. Still light at 36 but acceptable. Conversely the Shinko 016 is a very heavy steering tire which seems to need at least 39 PSI and is never pleasant in turns. Current front Metzeler Z6 has 39 PSI, most of the time. That seems to work well. But if/when it drops to 36 I don't drop everything and make time to add air.
My experience riding at limits is on dirtbikes. The handling at low pressures that bothers many here doesn't bother me nearly as much as light steering and a bit of hunting when leaned over when irregularities appear on the road. That is when one expects to kiss the ground. Off-road if your tires are not sliding then you are riding like a wuss. Its something I avoid on-road.
From an engineering background I've learned everything is a compromise. Many assume a scalloping motorcycle tire indicates something is broken. Realizing the tire is rounded and rolling diameter decreases from center to side I accept something has to scrub, and that results in a scalloping wear pattern. Increasing tire pressure narrows the contact patch which reduces the difference in rolling diameter across the contact patch. That in turn reduces the scrub and wear. But also reduces the traction which keeps me from sliding off the road. So which would you rather have, a worn out tire that is pretty with less traction, or a worn out tire that is ugly but provided lots of traction? Perhaps if one doesn't crash then less traction is not a concern.
Tapered bearing has same issue as a rounded motorcycle tire, it has to scrub. The diameter of the race is larger at one end than the other due to the taper. Some part of the roller has to slide over the differing diameters. Ball bearing has much smaller contact so much less sliding and less friction. But less robust in the same size package. Its another one of those compromises, can the rider really tell the difference? How many more FJRs will Yamaha sell if a no-wobble reputation is formed? How many more will Yamaha sell impressing California magazine reviewers with the feel of a new motorcycle?
Tapered bearings are not a no-wobble guarantee. But if ball bearing wobble is going to appear it seems to start between 5,000 and 15,000 miles. Tapered wobble much later.
Have recognized many times that not everyone has problems with ball bearings. I ride with a 2014 that at 88,000 miles still has the OE bearings. No wobble last time I rode his FJR. He is an odd one who won't make time to inflate tires until they drop to 32 PSI. Gets 10% longer tire life than I do. But the last 25% rides like a fat cow. My tires ride just about as good as new to the end. The Z6 currently wants to fall into slow speed turns, it didn't when new, but most tires seem to develop this tendency. The Z6 is nearing its end. The rear Z6 didn't last nearly as long as the front, that is a first for me. Can't see scalloping on the Z6 but can feel something with hand on tread. And I can hear it in turns (T31 on rear is new). That noise is new because tires visibly scalloped on FJR have been surprisingly quiet. Scalloped Dunlop 555's were noisy on PC800.
My wobble started at 14,000 miles and I spent another 14,000 miles with new tires (twice), adjusting preload, adding grease top and bottom, aligning forks, nothing worked until I installed new bearings. Put them in too tight and had to adjust at 100 miles. RS3 had 6,000 of its ultimate 8,000 mile life. Scalloped tire stopped wobbling. Still smiling. Adjusted again at 25,000. Thats my story.
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