Started after checking and tightening the steering not bearing. I wondered if I overtightened even though I followed the book's instructions. Would that induce the wobble if I overtightened? If so, how do I repair that??
No doubt, try all the other "stuff" first. I did too and nothing was a permanent solution. Tapered bearings finally solved my wobble for good.Even though I really hate to agree with n4 ��, he is absolutely correct, and as bill Lumberg has said on most all of these conversations you need to start with the easy stuff first and make sure that everything else is at spec before diving into the head bearings.
You need to make sure there is no looseness or binding in the fork, take everything loose and bounce the front end a few times To let it find its free center position and then go through and torque everything to spec including the current head bearings. How badly cupped is the current front tire ? Do the easy stuff first !
I know we tend to "push" putting the tapered roller bearings in and I am a big fan as they really tighten things up giving the bike a more solid feeling but again do all the easy stuff first and if that doesn't fix the wobble then do the tapered bearings, I consider them the last step in the wobble correction. My .02
On my 14a it was always a loose handler feeling sloppy when pushed into a corner not precise feeling at all. I was a bit disappointed with the "sport" handling of the fjr especially when compared to my antique Honda's on bias'd ply tires (all have tapered head bearings), but after the near tank slapper was fixed with the new tapered bearings my fjr was a different bike, very solid and precise in corners now. Keep in mind that you're going to need to check the taper bearing torque regularly for a while after installing them, taking up slack from things seating in but will get to a point needing no more retorquing.
I thought the same thing the first time a new tire helped mine but it never lasted. I suggest you periodically check by riding no-hands to see if the problem returns.I put some fresh skins on it this spring, and the issue is now gone.
On my bike is WAS a big deal. Imagine this- tire wants to wobble but you stop the see-able motion by holding the handlebars. But the tire still wants to wobble so that motion is absorbed by the forks. Might this be a contributing factor to some peoples' prematurely worn out fork bushings? I don't know but I do know this: when my steering wobbled I had fork seal leaks. Since installing tapered roller bearings I have no wobble and no leaks regardless of what tire, how much & how weird the wear; regardless of tire pressure, regardless of road conditions, regardless of how I set the suspension, regardless of what order I tighten fasteners following a wheel removal- I have zero wobble. None, ever. It is NOT normal, it IS dangerous and IMHO it IS damaging other components of your machine.btw mine does it too. Has ever since I bought it. Been doing it for 20,000 miles now. It's really not a big deal.
How about try not letting go of the handlebars just so you can feel a shimmy and imagine there is something horribly wrong with your bike? Or if you insist on letting go of the bars, run it up to 60 and let go where it will be nice and smooth, just grab them before you get down to 40 lol.