I’m interested to hear how it goes for the OP. I can tell a difference in preload settings just riding around the block. same for overall suspension settings. But
I’m on my second FJR. It took a while on the first one to figure out how to tune, much less interpret the subtleties of that suspension. I find it necessary, on the ES, to set the preload to two riders to cover me, my gear, bags and top case.

Last year in the two months I had before the MI weather went to crap with my new to me ‘15 ES one of the first things I did was work on learning how the preload worked for me solo commuting. IMO what I found was very similar to setting ride height on my Ducati’s or off road bikes.
Using the plus luggage for my 180 lbs provided reasonable contact with my feet to help me readjust to a much larger bike while improving steering crispness a bit. Going all the way to passenger plus luggage really helped the steering with barely keeping the balls of both feet in touch. As I got used to it I really liked that highest preload setting - much crisper steering. Easier direction changes, more predictable turn in.
I’m interested to see what happens when fully laden with my passenger and luggage later this year. It’s that time of year again!

Thanks for all the info, I think after researching it's not worth the trouble for a 1-up rider that doesn't vary their load often. I found the soft-hard setting pretty useful as it is.

One thing I did see people talk about is getting an Ohlins or Penske with the extra cash but people often forget those shocks are ideally serviced once a season, which is not only expensive but a PIA to yank out of the bike and ship it to a tuner. For me best to keep it stock and ride smooth. The Gen III A model has sufficient spring rates and damping for someone like me at 165lbs and no passenger.

Ditch, your weight is the exact focus of what Yamaha engineers spec it to. As I learned earlier in this thread. Me,,,, unfortunately I'm nearly 2 riders as I learned here. LOL

I'm 1 up always, and never change my load. ES owner here,
i do change my suspension on the fly, many many times a ride. 3 harsh bumps i switch to softer, 2 or 3 looser dips, back to a harder setting.

probably wouldn't have a fjr without the es. my last bike was cartridges in front and a shock. ak-20 and a 8983 penske. being able to dial in or take suspension out on the fly was a very easy decision for me to make.

I agree with setting preload to carry your weight, and you shouldn't have to change it except if going two-up. Suspension basics, it has to carry you, after that, set your damping to your preferences/conditions.
As for aftermarket shocks "needing" rebuilds every year, that's like Yamaha telling me I have to change my spark plugs so often. I've had my RaceTech for about 8 years, it got rebuilt in 2016, transferred to the '14. If it is clean and isn't leaking, I don't see why it needs a rebuilt every year. I'd pick a mileage number instead of annual.

Has anyone looked in the cost of rebuilding or servicing and ES? Got to be plenty out there that are getting high in the miles?

I don't know anyone who has rebuilt an ES rear shock, but there are those interested in looking at it (Cogent Dynamics, Traxxion). It should be no different than rebuilding any stock shock, as your local suspension shop may already be familiar. If it were mine, I'd upgrade the spring to say 800 lbs. It would carry you better and not require so much preload.
As for the ES forks, I have done a couple, need some tools, etc. I'm doing another set soon and this time will document the procedure. FYI, even at 40k, the fork oil was clean as the bushings do not ride in aluminum tubes as the A's do.

Seems to me that all of you are saying pretty much the same thing but using different languages.


Bill is correct regarding what the manual says. As he admits, I can sit on my '15 ES and switch preload settings and it does raise or lower the chassis accordingly. It's a matter of terminology.


Ditch, the "Is it Worth it to get ES" question has been argued back and forth for 5 years on these forums. There is no right or wrong answer.


I am about 200 in my gear, I sometimes go on long trips with lots of luggage. Sometimes I ride locally with some faster guys. Sometimes I have to get on the interstate and drone along on a rough and choppy surface. For ALL of those things I make changes to my ES. I move it all the time.


Yes, if I am going to be riding through some serious twisty stuff with faster folks I will increase my preload, usually to 1helmet +1 suitcase. (That's what the pics look like on my screen!) Yes, that raises the rear. Yes, that increases the steepness of the front forks. Yes that gives me slightly (very slightly) more ground clearance before I scrape my pegs.


The A model when ridden by a decent rider really does not give up much in the corners to an ES model. A dear friend of mine who is a much better/faster rider routinely smokes me on his A model. It isn't the bike, it's the rider that makes the most difference.


FWIW, the suspension of the '13 and newer A models is significantly better than the '06 to '12 (Gen2) bikes.

HAHA, I totally agree with all you statements and that is exactly what my ES does also. I am always changing the setup depending on road conditions and surface.

I had a laugh when I read the above line. I always wondered if my bike gets bored cause I ride her to my limit, but nowhere close to her limit! She's more than i can handle, and i love it!