FJR Project Bike Rebuild - Page 7 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #61 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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It's a lot of fun living out of baskets! But we're getting there.


What's the big deal for today....... need a battery. Shopping around, everything's close enough pricing to just go with a Yuasa.... here, they're going for near enough one large and a half. Found one in Florida for U$87..... that converts to too much plus I'd have to go get it in Niagara USA.
But wait, Amazon.ca (I rarely shop at Amazon, too expensive) has a YT14B-BS for C$94. IN! Ordered. IT will arrive on the front porch, don't get better than that.
Local dealer will have my exhaust gasket tomorrow so we can get the headers on, and finish up the cooling system hookups..

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #62 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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We're gonna need fuel, right? First ensured I had the starter and anything else hooked up that the throttle bodies are going to bury, and routed the harnesses. A little squirt of silicone spray just to wet the intake rubbers, then installed the throttle bodies. Oops, noticed I couldn't hook up the voltage regulator plug, wire was an inch short.... fished that out back under the TB's, re-routed to go along the brake lines, which gave me the length I needed. Glad I didn't have to pull the TB's as they were a bit of effort to install. Looking good, got all the hoses ready for the air box... but what's wrong in the picture?



Air box is next, but first... rear fender had been taken off, so I cleaned it all up and installed it. There is absolutely no reason it ever needed to be off because you can (and FSM agrees) remove/install the air box without messing with the rear fender. Rear fender holds the ABS ECU and cradles some wire harnesses.



The same thing is wrong in this pic too. With airbox in place, I installed the fuel tank/front seat support, then comes the seat tray (not in this photo) and it has the main ECU mounted to the bottom of it. I had sprayed a little contact cleaner in the ECU connection the day before, so I blew it out with air and hooked it up. Next pic shows I have the rear fender held up by a bungie at the back end but I have the front end of it in place. Back end is held up by installing the tail light, but not quite ready for that.



So back to the first pic, seems there's a coupla throttle cables tucked up on the right side of the valve cover. I tried my best to see how to hook up the return cable, no room to see..... gotta take the throttle bodies off!! Duh! This is what happens when nobody shows up to keep an eye on me and recite the FSM....... it'll cost me an hour or so, no biggie, gotta be done. Also, my exhaust gasket is delayed another day, so I kinda took it easy today, checked over the electrical situation up front, puttered around with some other things needed doing, had an afternoon nap and everything. Felt good.
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Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #63 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 11:26 PM
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Where is the ECM on this bike?

Candy Red
2014 FJR1300A
Tires: Metzeler Roadtec Z6

Previous bikes:
2014 Honda Goldwing Valkyrie
2013 Honda CB1100
1999 Honda Nighthawk 750
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post #64 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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The ECU is under the seat tray, two screws attach it. Below that, the ABS ECU sits in a pocket on top of the rear fender (at very front of it) along with a couple of wire harnesses, and adjacent (in front of) the voltage regulator is mounted to the frame (to be grounded).
GEn3 ECU is up by the battery, and on the left side is the voltage regulator. ABS ECU is under the seat tray.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
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2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #65 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Somebody came while I was out in the shop, but I found this on the porch this morning...... alrighty then, got it all filled, let it sit a bit and put it on the charger, and will leave it there for a day or two. Don't need it yet.



Meanwhile, this did take me an hour. I had to undo the cables at the grip, while up there I noticed some burrs on the bar, so smoothed them all out so there will be no binding. Glad I did take the TB's back off, 'cuz now I know where the return cable attaches, and can probably do it without taking the TB's off (we are due to change cables on Andy's bike at next Tech Day). Looking better now, eh!





Shot of the front end of the rear fender, showing ABS ECU module and harnesses, for those that want to know what's under there. Ignore those thin wires to the right, that's the Hyperlites stuff in the tail, I have yet to decide if it's going or staying.



Next a shot of the seat tray, and attached to the bottom with two screws is the main ECU. I've held up the ECU connector from the main harness to it, and have installed the air cleaner with the main harness still hanging out. The little harness with the blue and black wire with bullet connectors is for the licence plate light, there's a low current ground spider with the black cap, and a white two-way (blanked off) and a 4-way connector. Anyone know what they are for? All other wire connectors are unique, and pretty much you can't plug the wrong thing into the wrong thing.



Main harnesses retrained to go around the air cleaner intake area.



So looky here, what would you call this.... I suppose some would say optimism, but I say Perfectly Confident (that I'm done here don't have to go back into this area).



Multitasking as usual, I had been looking over that messy horn relay thang, the more I looked at it the uglier it got. I figured out easy enough what whomever-it-was was trying to accomplish but, it was overcomplicated. The good news, they used the horn connections as their feed source to trigger their relay. To make a long story short, the original bike's wiring is not compromised and I'm simply going to return it to stock..... so things got uglier... good riddance. Notice the lovely 8 gauge speaker wire...


Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #66 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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A little off topic perhaps, but I had acquired an ultrasonic cleaner and I needed some supplies...... picked up a jug of SG, a little dish soap, a Rayzerman-approved beverage, and..... my Yamaha parts!! First thing I did was put on the new rubber, took all of 4 seconds.





Of course, I shoulda had the cleaner in use a couple of weeks ago, I've been cleaning everything by hand. So I dumped in half a litre of SG, squirt of Dawn, big cuppa hot water, and dumped in the remains of my hardware, a healthy pound or so. This was my first go with an ultrasonic cleaner, so this was an experiment... was the batch to big? Dialed it up to 150F and 20 minutes and let 'er hum. The answer is, the batch wasn't really too big, but I wouldn't put as much in next time. The solution did get dirty so somethings working right. It loves castings, see the shiny balance shaft adjuster. If your parts have grease or dried loctite on them, it won't take it off, best wipe them down if they are greasy. But stuff does wipe up way easier after the hot mini-jacuzzi. I'm not going to use it much on the bike now, and will learn more when I clean up other stuff.





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Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #67 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 11:12 AM
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How do you like the Zokop cleaner? I picked up a 2.5 L cleaner from Harbor Freight that's mostly plastic with stainless liners. Based on recommendations from the mfgrs of the stuff I mostly clean (suppressors), I use a 50/50 mix of water and Purple Power. It works a treat but I'm looking at upgrading the cleaner itself. What I was looking at was something a little larger but didn't know about the Zokop for smaller batches. The Zokop parts basket is a better design than mine, so that's a plus.

Given the success I've had, I'll keep using the Purple Power as the de-greaser (which also de-carbons). Don't use sonic cleaners on painted or coated parts (Cerakote for example) because it will strip that paint/coating off). I also run multiple passes on all parts. Because of the design of mine and its instructions, I give a rest time of equal to the run time between passes. I'll run at least 2 and sometimes 3 max-duration passes (8 minutes with heat (150) on my plastic model) for lead/carbon and parts come out squeaky clean. Well, not squeaky because the de-greaser is slipper.


What I currently have




This 9L version is what I've been eye balling in the larger type.

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/ca...-sonic-cleaner

Ridden wet. Put up hard.

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Last edited by bounce; 01-25-2019 at 11:20 AM.
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post #68 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Bounce, I'm a newbie to ultrasonic cleaners, and from the first go, I can see the need to soak parts in naptha or mineral spirits for a time to soften dried up greases/oils. Then put them in with SG (really just a citrus cleaner), and I added dishwashing soap as a dispersant/surfactant. I can see multiple cycles, I'll try that. Perhaps smaller loads might work a little better, but perhaps not.

I did put the old exhaust gaskets in to see if it would take them back to shiny copper, but as usual, carbon doesn't dissolve in anything, so it had little effect.

My cleaner is a 3 litre, got it for $60. It's big enough for a carbeuretor if need be, but like anything, bigger sometimes is better. This one's OK for my needs.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #69 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Update on the mystery connector, it was a rhetorical question, I had looked it up on the wiring diagram. It's for a once-upon-a-time alarm system available from Yamaha. Surprised there wasn't a cover on it, and I will add one with shrink tube. The white connector has switched power (and ground), should you need a trigger circuit for your add-on fuse panel or a GPS wire, but the wire gauge is small, stick to 3-5 amp loads (like the lighter socket). One could add terminals to the blanked off connector half.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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post #70 of 110 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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I've been working on cleaning up the electrical in between other things, and since I had to button up the rear fender and tail light, might as well get the back end done. So everthing got a good scrub before it went on and now's the only chance to get into those places you can't get to. Here is a set of Hyperlites, and the lites themselves have been snipped off. Loverly white tape job just overjoys me, so I took it all off to see what's under there. Nothing special, just the Hyperlite workings, all tied into the bikes tail light harness.



I was undecided what to do with the Hyperlites, but decided to put stuff back together first, decide later. So this is with rear fender and tail light installed. I also took the opportunity to undo the tail light wires and re-route them in front of the subframe. You will also notice a hint of blue in the pic.



So this is what it looks like now... hey Mama Yama, you must have originally intended it to be this way!! There's more than enough wire... Jeez now we can actually change our tail light bulbs without fighting over everything. Got rid of the white tape, and thought about shrink tubing to make it look nice..... finally said no, so Hyperlites are gone, Postitaps removed and harness restored. Next guy or gal gets a clean slate and can customize to his/her preferences. Oh lookie, a bit more blue.



Well, back to what really has to get done. Installing the exhaust headers will let me finish up a whole bunch of things. So here we are, all done up. Wiring cleaned up, stock horns installed with original wires, radiator installed, rad hoses connected. The smaller hose is a bypass hose that comes off the water pump. Lower engine mount bolt is loose installed as there are frame sliders to install someday when the big blue pieces go on. Note the harness at the top with the white label is the recall harness for the ground spider, it adds some bulk as it is substantial.



Around the other side, rad hoses done, wiring done, stock horn, and had to replace the overflow hose as it was old and brittle/cracked and simply had seen too much heat over time. I used some clear tubing and wrapped it with foil duct tape as a heat shield. I'll tweak the routing once the overflow reservoir goes on. It should not be behind that coolant hose but outside of it. That hose BTW, is for the hot wax motor on the throttle bodies for the fast idle.



So here we go, reservoir installed, overflow hose re-routed and it makes it way down to the oil filter (in case you were wondering what that hose is down there). Now what the heck, let's pour in some koolaid. Marked the Low and Full marks and I did intentionally overfill it somewhat. When first cooling cycle occurs, some will get sucked into the rad, should end up at the full mark. I like full, I don't like minimums.



Ciao for now.
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Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
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