New guy - just bought a '14 FJR1300A! - Page 5 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #41 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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Did this a couple weeks ago at 16k miles, thinking next oil change at 20k, then to the dealer at 24k for the valve check/adjustment, and rear swingarm lube service - have read "by the book" is at 16K, but have also read if a bike hasn't been ridden in a wet or damp environment (as an always garaged Vegas bike, and according to the history I got never went further than Southern California, thinking it might not have even seen rain) that it can go longer. Probably have the spark plugs replaced also at 24k (they were replaced by the dealer at 10k).

Does this sound like a reasonable game plan?

Changed oil and filter, gear oil, and swapped the factory filter for a K&N.


2014 FJR1300A

Burning it up in the Desert Southwest

'82 Honda CR250
'83 Honda XL250R
'82 Yamaha Seca 750
'82 Honda V45 Sabre
'90 Suzuki Katana 750
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
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post #42 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 03:28 AM
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I don't believe oil made for a car is supposed to be used with a wet clutch. Over time, it might make the clutch slip.
Don't know a lot about the Gen 3 but you may want to find out for sure.

Last edited by justacrossthehill; 11-19-2020 at 03:37 AM.
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post #43 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 08:42 AM
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Since you're paying for dealer service.... several things in the Maintenance Schedule are overkill (e.g., spark plug changes at 8k), and others are insufficient (e.g., brake/clutch fluid, rear diff fluid.... all of these annually is best). Steering head bearing check should have been done early on.
You can stretch the valve check interval much longer (30-50k), you do not have to service the swingarm itself, you should service the rear suspension pivot/relay arm by greasing it (early in life is best). While you're in there, grease U-joint and drive shaft splines.. some of these had too little grease from the factory.

24k is ok on regular spark plugs, so your next plug change can be at 34k. EZ job for the DIY types.

Oil change interval is OK, some go 5-6k, up to you. Visit the oil thread for oil discussion....

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
1999 VFR800Fi - Pearl Shining Yellow
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post #44 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 09:17 AM
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Don’t want to start an “oil thread” but I have to say that I’ve used car oil in all my bikes ever since I started riding 50yrs ago. Car oil is all that I have ever used in my 76 g-wing since it was new and horror of horrors even have only used synthetic car oils since about 1980 in it. The clutch is fine inspite of that along with some serious abuse by street/drag racing it. Never a problem !

The only clutch I’ve ever had fail is in my 80 CBX which had only ever been drag raced before I got it, changing to mobil1 in it’s already wounded clutch probably hastened it’s demise. So personally I think the “car oils cause clutch failures” is an old wives tale spread by the oil companies so they can charge 2-3 times the price for “bike” specific oils, pure bunk imho.

Red rock, the k+n oil filter you used is one if the best internally that I’ve cut apart (I’ve cut a bunch apart), the only issue I’m aware of with them is the one’s with the nut had a problem with leaking where the nuts were welded on, but that’s it ! Internally they are one of the best made I have seen, the only real crap filter is anything from Fram. My .02.

Steve P
Red 2014A, the fastest color !
Ride more,, worry less !

Last edited by passx; 11-19-2020 at 09:22 AM.
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post #45 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 09:40 AM
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The manual says not to use anything labeled Energy Conserving II or oils with a diesel specification of CD.
My 2005 FZ1 has seen nothing but Rotella since 2007 and it's doing fine.
It also says not to run oils of a higher quality than specified which doesn't make one bit of sense to me, perhaps it all B/S.
I use Mobile 1 bike oil in the FJR and have no plans to stop.

Last edited by justacrossthehill; 11-19-2020 at 12:04 PM.
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post #46 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Meh.

Mark me in the camp of not buying the "motorcycle oil" voodoo.

If there was any truth to it, IMHO, we would see literally THOUSANDS of threads across the interwebz about the catastrophic clutch, engine, and transmission failures caused by not using overpriced dealer oil, and the subsequent thousands of warranty denials, etc (how many MILLIONS of motorcycles have been sold in the US in the last decade alone?)

To each his own.

FWIW, the paperwork on my bike shows a DEALER oil change at 10k miles using 10W50 SEMI-synthetic oil. IIRC the manual recommends 10W40 - and only reason I can think of them using SEMI-synthetic oil is it is cheaper and higher profit margin for them.

2014 FJR1300A

Burning it up in the Desert Southwest

'82 Honda CR250
'83 Honda XL250R
'82 Yamaha Seca 750
'82 Honda V45 Sabre
'90 Suzuki Katana 750
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
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post #47 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Since you're paying for dealer service.... several things in the Maintenance Schedule are overkill (e.g., spark plug changes at 8k), and others are insufficient (e.g., brake/clutch fluid, rear diff fluid.... all of these annually is best). Steering head bearing check should have been done early on.
You can stretch the valve check interval much longer (30-50k), you do not have to service the swingarm itself, you should service the rear suspension pivot/relay arm by greasing it (early in life is best). While you're in there, grease U-joint and drive shaft splines.. some of these had too little grease from the factory.

24k is ok on regular spark plugs, so your next plug change can be at 34k. EZ job for the DIY types.

Oil change interval is OK, some go 5-6k, up to you. Visit the oil thread for oil discussion....
Thanks for the wisdom RaYzerman!

I will look into the steering head bearing check and servicing the rear suspension pivot/relay arm (are both of those too complicated for an only average guy who only changes fluids and plugs, etc?)

edit:

Is this a good vid to follow to check and grease the steering head bearings?

2014 FJR1300A

Burning it up in the Desert Southwest

'82 Honda CR250
'83 Honda XL250R
'82 Yamaha Seca 750
'82 Honda V45 Sabre
'90 Suzuki Katana 750
'89 Yamaha FJ1200

Last edited by RedRockFJRider14; 11-19-2020 at 09:32 PM.
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post #48 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 09:14 PM
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You will need tools for both jobs. Special socket or tool for steering head and final torque to 15-18 ft. lbs not Yammy's 13.
To do the rear suspension pivot totally, you need to remove the centerstand (while supporting the whole back end), cut two bolts unless you want to remove the headers (not!), and get to the front pivot bolt. Otherwise all the other bolts are accessible with tools.
Desert Southwest.... I don't know of any tech days out there where you could get assistance.

Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
1999 VFR800Fi - Pearl Shining Yellow
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post #49 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
You will need tools for both jobs. Special socket or tool for steering head and final torque to 15-18 ft. lbs not Yammy's 13.
To do the rear suspension pivot totally, you need to remove the centerstand (while supporting the whole back end), cut two bolts unless you want to remove the headers (not!), and get to the front pivot bolt. Otherwise all the other bolts are accessible with tools.
Desert Southwest.... I don't know of any tech days out there where you could get assistance.
I watched the vid I linked above from TwoWheeledObsession - pretty straight forward procedure and well within my abilities, will plan to get it done sometime this winter.

Gonna check out this vid:

At first glance looks like a lot more complex than I may be interested in doing. Bummer he mentions its a $1k service at the dealer!?!?!?!

2014 FJR1300A

Burning it up in the Desert Southwest

'82 Honda CR250
'83 Honda XL250R
'82 Yamaha Seca 750
'82 Honda V45 Sabre
'90 Suzuki Katana 750
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
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post #50 of 61 (permalink) Old 11-19-2020, 10:47 PM
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FWIW I used nothing but "car oil" in my fjr for 11 yrs until that mfr quit supplying the weights I want. 137+ Kmiles and still all factory clutch components. Same with the Kaw before this. And the Honda before that. And the Kaw before that. And... And...
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