Hi all from UK newbie. - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-14-2020, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Hi all from UK newbie.

Greetings to everyone from a new FJR owner. Lot's of great stuff here!
I picked up 2001 model earlier this week with a view to going two up touring in the highlands, that is seemingly well looked after. 72000 miles on the clock, engine sounds pretty good, lots of service history, last owner ten years, cosmetically very clean etc.
The bike rides pretty good though I noticed on the way back home that there was a momentary hesitation when opening the throttle hard to accelerate - say to overtake, before the power kicked in. This happens around 3.5 - 4k revs. Previous owner says it is fitted with a K and N air filter. It's still doing it after two tanks of fuel. Looks like I'm getting just under 200 miles from a tank too which is a little lower than I was expecting. Any ideas if it's all related and if there is anything else I should check before heading off into the wilderness!

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-14-2020, 02:34 PM
red
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Hi all from UK newbie.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YYZ2112 View Post
Greetings to everyone from a new FJR owner. Lot's of great stuff here! I picked up 2001 model earlier this week with a view to going two up touring in the highlands, that is seemingly well looked after. 72000 miles . . . I noticed on the way back home that there was a momentary hesitation when opening the throttle hard to accelerate - say to overtake, before the power kicked in. . . . It's still doing it after two tanks of fuel. Looks like I'm getting just under 200 miles from a tank too which is a little lower than I was expecting. Any ideas if it's all related and if there is anything else I should check before heading off into the wilderness! Thanks in advance.
YYZ2112,

Welcome to our FJR sandbox! Pull up a seat, and be among friends.

Your FJR may benefit from the use of a fuel injector cleaner. In the USA, Seafoam is a popular choice, but ask the local bikers; there is probably a fuel-specific product which is just as good there. I did see Seafoam on Amazon.com/UK lately, but somewhat pricey. One can, running through several tanks of fuel as directed on the label will probably help. It's a good idea to repeat that trick on some regular schedule as well, depending on the quality of your local fuel.

Alternately, there may be some slack in the throttle cables, which can delay the throttle response without being an obvious fault. Your warm idle speed should be about 1200+ rpm, but I don't know what that value would be in Metric.

Of course, we might have more suggestions, if needed. Keep us posted.
.
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Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Last edited by red; 08-14-2020 at 02:36 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-21-2020, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Red. It's not the throttle cables though they do need a tweak. It happens when the throttle is open say cruising at a steady 3000 rpm. Opening the throttle to overtake causes a hesitation before the revs increase, like the mixture is lean or there is a misfire. It's always around 3500 to 4000 rpm. A regular air filter has been ordered to see if the K&N is the cause. Will keep you posted.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 12:49 AM
red
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Hi all from UK newbie.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YYZ2112 View Post
Thanks Red. It's not the throttle cables though they do need a tweak. It happens when the throttle is open say cruising at a steady 3000 rpm. Opening the throttle to overtake causes a hesitation before the revs increase, like the mixture is lean or there is a misfire. It's always around 3500 to 4000 rpm. A regular air filter has been ordered to see if the K&N is the cause. Will keep you posted.
YYZ2112

Did you increase your idle speed? The K&N filter is less restrictive than the stock Yamaha filter, so that may be some part of the problem.

Yamaha set up the FJR with a fairly lean fueling map. The cheap fix would be to have Ivan's Performance in Georgia, USA, do his magic re-flash for the ECU module. I believe he can do Gen1 ECUs for the FJR. If so, it's a one-plug installation. In the USA, the re-flash on your ECU would cost US$375 shipped, and you can figure on whatever taxes and fees may be needed for an ECU (that you own) to cross the pond. You get back the bike that Yamaha wanted to make.

Not sure about annual vehicle testing there, so you may need to deal with that aspect. I just kept my old ECU, so if my place ever wants to test bikes (not so far), I can just swap in the stock ECU again. A used ECU for the re-flash might cost US$100~$175, but now I have two, in case I need another ECU someday. Alternately, you can install a Power Commander, and get the right fueling maps on-line to do the same job. You can swap maps in there easily enough, but a PC won't be a one-connector installation. The hardware is more expensive, and changing maps will need advice that I can not provide. Other riders here can certainly advise you, there.
.
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Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 08:03 AM
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Yyz2112, I would bet it ain’t the k&n. I know the gen 2’s had fueling problems that the power commander was used to fix but not sure about the gen 1’s. Does it do this in any gear in that rpm range ? If it does then I’m thinking possible throttle position sensor, if so you may be able to clean it with some contact cleaner but probably are going to be replacing the TPS. You also may try a TBS (throttle body sync) , I don’t think it’ll fix your hesitation but a TBS should be a regular maintenance item anyway. Let us know what you find and your results.

By the way, I personally prefer Lucas Fuel treatment over the seafoam, less caustic but either may help, particularly if your 2001 has been sitting for any amount of time, it surely can’t hurt.

Anyway welcome to the sandbox, a lot of really good people here willing to help, I would suggest adding your bike model/yr to your signature line, it’ll help when you have a problem or question,,,,, again welcome and enjoy that new bike !
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Steve P
Red 2014A, the fastest color !
Ride more,, worry less !

Last edited by passx; 08-22-2020 at 08:06 AM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 08:06 AM
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I'd do all the above, but hard to say what the issue is... I don't think air filter will matter much but I'd service it anyway. It could be a flat spot in the TPS switch given the age of the bike.
Another thing to do is remove the MAP sensor and inspect the vacuum nipple and the hose for its entire length to ensure no crud build-up.... although if totally plugged will cause more than your symptoms... call it preventative maintenance.

And BTW, inspect the CCT, if it doesn't have a paint dot on it, I'd highly recommend you replace that at your very earliest convenience if not yesterday. The original design has a weak spring that only gets weaker with time. If you can't find the procedure, we can help.
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Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
1999 VFR800Fi - Pearl Shining Yellow
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 11:47 AM
red
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Hi all from UK newbie.

YYZ2112,

CCT means Cam Chain Tensioner. Blue dot/ green dot will be okay, but no dot? Time for a new one.

TBS means Throttle Body Synchronization (equal fueling for each cylinder).

TPS means Throttle Position Sensor. The Gen2s can test the twistgrip throttle crudely with the OBD (On-Board Diagnostics), but a good multimeter can do the job as well or better. Prefer a multimeter that includes a bar-graph across the digital readout, if possible; it makes a shaky TPS show its' faults better. The throttle response should be smooth across the band, with no gaps or jumps.

"Search" here can find posts, for each topic.

HTH (Hope That Helps)
.
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Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=

And BTW, inspect the CCT, if it doesn't have a paint dot on it, I'd highly recommend you replace that at your very earliest convenience if not yesterday. The original design has a weak spring that only gets weaker with time. If you can't find the procedure, we can help.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for all the advice so far everyone. Re the above is it possible to ID the version of the CCT without removing the engine cover, i.e. is it on the outside of the engine?


BTW I swapped out the K&N for a regular paper filter. Idle speed dropped from 1100 rpm to 1000 rpm. I haven't taken it for a spin yet because of the CCT possible issue!

"Given the right tools, anything is possible"
2001 FJR1300, 2001 ZR7-S
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 12:25 PM
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If there are no tick or rattle noises from the right side of the engine, then by all means go for a spin.. you should adjust idle to 1100, it just works better. Also adjust the throttle cable freeplay to near zero for smoother operation.

I think on Gen1 you have to lift the tank and look under the right side rubber cover, CCT is on right side of engine.

This is a good video of step by step replacement, except, when it comes to a zip tie on the chain, it should be much lower and closer to the crankshaft sprocket if you can... the idea being to keep the chain from dropping below that sprocket while you have the tension backed off the CCT or CCT out.
As for tools, a short cut-off 8mm wrench is useful in removing the outboard 8mm head bolt from below the frame. I have cut slots in the heads of the bolts and reinstalled through the slot in the frame with a screwdriver, however, there was a good suggestion here to use a piece of rubber hose to get those screws started and run back in.


Ray
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer (sold)
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red
1999 VFR800Fi - Pearl Shining Yellow
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 02:23 PM
red
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Hi all from UK newbie.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YYZ2112 View Post
Thanks for all the advice so far everyone. Re the above is it possible to ID the version of the CCT without removing the engine cover, i.e. is it on the outside of the engine? BTW I swapped out the K&N for a regular paper filter. Idle speed dropped from 1100 rpm to 1000 rpm. I haven't taken it for a spin yet because of the CCT possible issue!
YYZ2112,

Yes, you can see the color dot (if any) without removing any panels. You may need an inspection mirror to help, and a strong light source. There is a small gasket to fit the footprint of the CCT, which you may need for the replacement job. If you have a color-dot CCT now, then you are good to go.

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/1056346-post7.html
.

Cheers,
Red
2008 FJR1300A
- Pirelli Angel GT (Spec A) tires, RDL seat, TPMS, GPS digital speedometer (Amazon ~US$28.00).
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
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