High-G FJR Junkie!
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Millgrove, ON, CA
I read up a lot on ethanol once or twice... Gasoline itself will not degrade for a couple of years. Ethanol will loosen but not completely dissolve accumulated sludge on the inside of non-metal tanks as the boating people found (what's underground at your gas station?). Ethanol fuel that sits is going to start phase separation after about two weeks, which may cause water to start accumulating at the bottom of your tank. Ethanol can only disperse 4.5% water, whereas isopropanol can take care of more than 10 times that. Half a cup will cause starting and running problems in your fjr, more than that will just be worse, as the water is the first thing the fuel pump sees.
I should look more into what's in Stabil, but mostly the marine stuff is recommended. I choose good old naptha and isopropanol..... naptha dissolves gummy deposits slowly and isopropanol takes care of the water from phase separation. Good old Seafoam, no magic to it really, nor many of the "injector" cleaners... most contain naptha as a main ingredient. IF you can't get your bike started or it runs like a bucking bronco, put 2-3 ounces of Seafoam or some isopropanol in your tank and the water will disperse.
Fresh ethanol fuel is just fine, over a long time, there may be deposits on the throttle plates or the intake valve stems. Debatable if any additives will prevent that, but the name brand gasolines have better additive packages. All of these are added right before delivery from the refinery depot.
I personally don't use additives every tankful, but do anytime the bike is going to be down for a couple of weeks or more, or that first tank on a long trip where the bike will see extended time at full operating temperatures. Seafoam is my stabilizer do-all, just keep it simple and don't subscribe to all the snake oil (if you wanna know what's in them, look up the MSDS).
For those Yamaha RingFree users, again not a lot of magic, but it does contain a lot of oil. Nothing dissolves carbon.... my project bike's engine was regularly dosed with RingFree and ridden like gramma. Quite the accumulation of carbon on the pistons and intake valves and it was all very oily.... maybe if it had been ridden hard occasionally some of that carbon would have been removed? Not likely, it takes physical removal mostly, but you can keep the accumulation down.
I will go on and on about riding like gramma. Make an FJR see some of the real power band which starts to kick in around 5000 rpm. I don't mean redline it, but this engine does not develop full power until 7000 rpm. You'll feel much of it before you get there. If you don't rev over 4000, then I think you should sell your FJR.
Keep yer stick on the ice....
2014 FJR1300A - Root Beer
2009 CBF1000A - Sienna Red