How To Change Motorcycle Tires - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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How To Change Motorcycle Tires



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Why would anyone want to change their own tires? Isnít it hard work that usually involves at least one bleeding knuckle? Donít the tools cost a small fortune when you consider that shops only charge about 25 bucks for the service? Well, some riders donít live within a few miles of a bike shop. And some folks, well, theyíve always got to do things themselves.

The good news is that, overworked sweat glands aside, changing tires is relatively easy Ė once you have the right tools. All you really need is a bead breaker, a set of tire irons, some dish soap, and a tire balancing stand.

Begin with your bike on front and rear stands. Once youíve removed a wheel, unscrew the valve core with a valve stem tool. After the tire has finished its lengthy sigh, place your wheel on an old tire or other work surface. Whatever support you use, you want to make sure the wheel is not resting on a brake disc while youíre working on the bead. Discs bend all too easily and are quite expensive.
Read more about How To Change Motorcycle Tires at Motorcycle.com.
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 11:39 AM
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Well, this is gonna get interesting
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 12:14 PM
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 04:29 PM
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Well, this is gonna get interesting
I'll go along with the purty glove thing.......

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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 10:34 PM
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I bought a No-Mar CH200 a year ago and have changed 8 motorcycle tires, 2 truck tires, and 3 trailer tires.

Once Upon A Time one could get a local dealer to change tire on wheel off bike for $25 but those days have passed. Only mount tires they sell which brings the mounted price to $75-$100 per tire over mail order. A while back Cycle Gear would mount their tires for free but refuse any purchased elsewhere. Recent flyer said $50 for others, $25 for theirs. But of great interest they would balance anything you bring in for free.

I'm thinking a lot about taking some dualsport wheels in for balance because I don't have over-spoke weights. No matter i took my FJR rear in with new tire I had mounted and was not convinced the tech that day knew what he was doing. The machine gave different answers every spin and he bluffed as if that was just the way things were. Got home and with my balancer decided to take half the weights off. Seemed to be fine the next 11,000 miles up to 100 mph.

Additionally, I am not at the mercy of shop schedule. Seems Saturday night and Sunday are my favorite tire days. Or evenings.

I move slow. At least 90 minutes per wheel. Yet I can get the front wheel off in 10 minutes starting when I carry my tools out to the FJR. I take plenty of time to rest. Plenty of time to find a balance I am confident in. Careful to tighten every bolt.

There have been times I have had trouble getting calipers over the disc. And some magic trick to get rear wheel back in its drive splines. Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's seemingly impossible. Best I have found is to put axle through without caliper then wiggle wheel until it goes over the splines. Then remove axle and insert brake carrier and washer/spacer.




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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 02:37 AM
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Just spent 80.00 for my Beemer Lt for front tire change. I brought the tire, had to leave the bike overnight. I made a copy of the Clymer page they needed so they wouldn't screw it up. All turned out well so I'm happy but my pocket is not. Cycle specialties outside Cincinnati. Wish I had the time to do the work myself.

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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 04:26 AM
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What is that track stand? I've been wanting something like that but haven't come across one yet...

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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 06:10 AM
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I just use a floor jack with a board on it under the pipes to lift the front. I've got a track stand for the ZRX with no centerstand, but I've never used it on the FJR.

A friend recently had some tires that he bought on line mounted at a local shop -- $100 for two. And I've had several give me the old "Would you take eggs to a restaurant and ask them to cook them for you?" line.

I've got a cheap old Harbor Freight stand with plastic-covered clamps, a mojo lever, and a yellow thing, and I couldn't tell you how many tires have been mounted on it. It's paid for itself many times over.

I've got arthritis in my hands and tendinitis in my right shoulder, so it's sometimes difficult, but I just take my time, which I've got lots of, and get it done.

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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 07:07 AM
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Mr Ed, I too bought all the add-ons for my HF China changer. Works ok but the bar that is to go through the wheel is too large diameter. I ended up just inserting a steel rod instead but it was a tad wobbly. What was your solution on the Harbor Freight center rod?

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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 07:12 AM
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The rear spline alignment can be an issue...... leave the bike in gear so the drive hub doesn't spin.
I'm using a Cycle Hill which I made a base for so it is higher, and a jig to set the wheel on for bead breaking.
TTBaddog, it doesn't really matter what center rod you use, it doesn't hold the wheel in any way, it's just for leverage with the mounting/install bar. My older HF came with a 5/8" rod. I never use the overarm.

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