How To Change Motorcycle Tires - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DeSudet View Post
What is that track stand? I've been wanting something like that but haven't come across one yet...
I don't think its worth $200 but snagged it when CycleGear put them on sale for $60 or $70. Haven't seen the sale recently:

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...pro-race-stand

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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 07:55 AM
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Wish I had the time to do the work myself.
I can't go to a dealer and return quicker than the ~2 hours to do it myself.

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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Ed View Post
I've got a cheap old Harbor Freight stand with plastic-covered clamps, a mojo lever, and a yellow thing, and I couldn't tell you how many tires have been mounted on it. It's paid for itself many times over.
I too have a HF stand with motorcycle adapter laying around in the corner. Never gained confidence in my attempts to add plastic protection for the wheel. So ultimately I threw money at No-Mar/Cycle Hill.

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I've got arthritis in my hands and tendinitis in my right shoulder, so it's sometimes difficult, but I just take my time, which I've got lots of, and get it done.
Arthritis flared in the base of my left thumb this year. Can no longer grab handlebars and do the perpetual pushup/pullup to ride a dirtbike proper. Find if I am careful not to tweak it then I get restored range of use. Found in March no matter I am right handed when wrenching I mostly use left hand to thread nuts and bolts. Pain taught me that fact. Today I'm much better. But oddly I don't think of my thumb at all when mounting tires, just when removing and installing the wheel.

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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 08:09 AM
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Mr Ed, I too bought all the add-ons for my HF China changer. Works ok but the bar that is to go through the wheel is too large diameter. I ended up just inserting a steel rod instead but it was a tad wobbly. What was your solution on the Harbor Freight center rod?
I completely removed the top portion that goes over the wheel. I don't need it, and it just got in the way. And I use a steel rod through the wheel into the top of the post. It's wobbly, but it works just fine. I think the rod is about 5/8", but that's only a guess.

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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 08:18 AM
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I too have a HF stand with motorcycle adapter laying around in the corner. Never gained confidence in my attempts to add plastic protection for the wheel. So ultimately I threw money at No-Mar/Cycle Hill.
I cut strips out of plastic milk jugs and zip tie them into the hooks. Oh yeah, my HF changer is really old and has the hooks they came with then.

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Arthritis flared in the base of my left thumb this year. Can no longer grab handlebars and do the perpetual pushup/pullup to ride a dirtbike proper. Find if I am careful not to tweak it then I get restored range of use. Found in March no matter I am right handed when wrenching I mostly use left hand to thread nuts and bolts. Pain taught me that fact. Today I'm much better. But oddly I don't think of my thumb at all when mounting tires, just when removing and installing the wheel.
I don't even grip the bar with my left hand. I just lay the heel of my hand on the grip and push as necessary. My thumb rides above the grip. I can pull the clutch that way just fine. If I had to grip the bar I'd have to go to the old cowhorn bars so popular in the late 70s .. I use the cruise control where feasible to take the stress off the right hand.

The tendinitis bothers me more lifting the wheels. In fact, I can't lift them to reinstall them. I lower the rear to the wheel by lifting the front, and I lower the front with the jack to install the axle. It's tough being old.
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TTBaddog View Post
Mr Ed, I too bought all the add-ons for my HF China changer. Works ok but the bar that is to go through the wheel is too large diameter. I ended up just inserting a steel rod instead but it was a tad wobbly. What was your solution on the Harbor Freight center rod?
I went to the hardware store and bought a length of threaded rod that threads right in. I took the HF bar in with me to get the thread right. Ace Hardware is where I got it.

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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 11:46 AM
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I spent about $1100 for the nicer NoMar system. And it's paid for itself at least five times over. With my race tire habit, and the fact that I eat Michelin PR4s and Angel GTs in about 2000 miles... it was kind of a no brainer. (Actually race tires are so soft that they're pretty easy to do with just a bucket and and tire tool... and rim protector. Balancing them is good for peace of mind... but unless you're doing big tracks with 180MPH straights, I can never tell the difference between balanced and unbalanced.)

My friend's dealership only wants to change tires purchased there, so after I pay $25-$60 more for the tire I can buy online, then I pay another $25 for the swap... and that's after I drive 35 minutes to the shop. The way I consume tires, it makes a huge difference.

Since I didn't want my NoMar permanently affixed to the floor (commitment issues), I had them cut me a nice steel plate to mount it on, and I can slide it where I want it.

I've done car tires, trailer tires, ATV tires... but I still prefer my pool bucket and tire tools for my dirt bike tires. For some reason, I haven't found the magic of swapping tires with tubes - always screwing the tube.

Hey N4, if you have a balancer, those spoke weights are super easy to work with. They have a little set screw to lock in place. You just have to buy them in advance. https://www.jakewilson.com/p/1758/-/...j1YaAtp98P8HAQ

I also like to take my time and bust the tires at my own pace. Or when Trainwreck needs tires changed, he brings me beer. That works good too.
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 11:54 AM
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I've got an HF tire changer with all the "stuff" that I got from a fellow member but I've yet to use it. My local Honda dealer is only 3 miles away and will change & balance a tire whether purchased there or not, wheel off the bike, for $25 taxes, disposal, etc. included. Bides, I've yet to figure out how to work the **** tire changer thing b/c mostly I'm an idiot......
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 04:16 PM
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Since I didn't want my NoMar permanently affixed to the floor (commitment issues), I had them cut me a nice steel plate to mount it on, and I can slide it where I want it.
No-Mar sells a kit to affix the changing stand to a 2" receiver hitch. Else one could build a pallet of wood to screw it down.

Quote:
I've done car tires, trailer tires, ATV tires... but I still prefer my pool bucket and tire tools for my dirt bike tires. For some reason, I haven't found the magic of swapping tires with tubes - always screwing the tube.
In the mid 1970's I worked summers and weekends at a dealership and did most of the tire work once they found I didn't pinch tubes. Still, I got the spoked steel rim jobs and one of the full time mechanics did the very rare "mag" wheel.

The trick is one has to "think like a tube" no matter you can't see it most of the time.

Only in the last few months I was there did we have anything like a proper tire changing stand. It was a simple post bolted to concrete with a ring covered with a split garden hose. A post up the middle that was small enough to pass through any wheel. And a pry bar with a shaped tip to follow the rim and guide the tire over. It was wonderful!

We had one other thing I haven't found or bothered to make since: a valve stem snake. A brake or clutch cable with a threaded fitting to replace the Schrader valve core. Unlike those we see for sale today that have a cap that screws on the outside this went inside and would pull a valve stem through any hole a valve stem would fit.

Quote:
Hey N4, if you have a balancer, those spoke weights are super easy to work with. They have a little set screw to lock in place. You just have to buy them in advance. https://www.jakewilson.com/p/1758/-/...j1YaAtp98P8HAQ
I've seen those but as a mechanical engineer who has busted spokes on dirtbikes in the past I fret about the very small nick the setscrew makes on spokes. I'd much rather nick the nipple than the stressed spoke. Wish I had kept some good old lead weights which clamp over the spoke nipple. Am very nearly talked into using stick-on weights to counter the rimlock.

Quote:
I also like to take my time and bust the tires at my own pace. Or when Trainwreck needs tires changed, he brings me beer. That works good too.
I got one beer, a frozen pizza and 2 liter bottle of Coke for mounting a friend's tire.

It was interesting, 16" steel rim, spokes, tube, off a Kawasaki cruiser with shaft drive. Short dirtbike spoons and Tusk rim protectors were just the right thing to get the last part over the rim. Am thankful the rim was at reasonable height and clamped down while I was working on it. The long Delrin-tipped No-Mar tool levered against the center post of the CH200 was the right thing to get the tire off but I've been much less successful using the 2-tipped end to mount tires.
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 04:38 PM
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Understood on center rod. I just had a piece of copper coated 1/2 stuck down the hole. It held up fine but I had to use a ratchet strap to hold the wheel down onto the cheap azz misaligned tree arms. If I had a threded center rod I could tighten the wheel to the stand via the center rod, plate and nut. I expect I will need to hunt down a threaded rod of the correct size or weld a and insert to the hole to accept 3/4 threaded rod. Other option is to get the Mojo Blocks but that is another 30 bucks. Currently just have some cutting board slices glued to the contact points which works fine as long as the wheel does not decide to jump out of there hence the strap or wanting to nut it down via center rod.

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