When Will My Motorcycle Battery Die? - Page 2 - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 05:55 PM
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"BUT, for those of you with deep pockets whose only concern is peace of mind, GOD bless you"
I have no wish to dispute your opinion but bitter experience tells me that buying a cheap battery is not going to result in a long battery life on any vehicle powered by an infernal combustion engine.

And may your god go with with you- always.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rbentnail View Post
I've been waiting for several years for my OE '07 battery to crap out but so far it's not cooperating. I posted elsewhere about the Antigravity XP-3 power thingee I keep under the rear seat for when I'm far away, facing all uphill in every direction, and it finally croaks.
Never need home without an Antigravity thingee. I also installed a remote positive terminal so I can jump the battery without removing plastic.

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-25-2017, 11:15 AM
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I also installed a remote positive terminal so I can jump the battery without removing plastic.
I read that you had done that and thought about doing it as well but I just made sure I have the correct Allen wrench in the saddlebag instead.

Russ
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-25-2017, 12:15 PM
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Awhile back Annie and I were headed to Vintage Days at the Barber Museum. About 200 miles into the 4500 mile round trip her F800GS refused to start. Off came the FJR plastic and her plastic for a jump (I didn't have the Antigravity thingee then). Got to a battery shop, and of course it started right up. Battery tested okay under load and the charging system was also good. For the next 13 days of the trip it was hit and miss. I must have jumped her 15-20 times. The battery was warranteed by a local dealer so I wanted to make it back. Got home, pulled into the shop and asked her to start the bike.... dead. I pulled the battery immediately and took it to the dealer. Tested dead and it was replaced. Hence, the remote terminal. By the way, all this happened before the fix to the GEN III battery cover, so getting to the battery was a royal PITA.

Also got a lesson in AGM batteries. The link between cells can break which essentially renders the battery useless. However, evidently the broken internal connection can arc and weld itself back together.... temporarily. Or so I've been told by an acquaintance who spent his life in a battery testing lab.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Pterodactyl View Post
Awhile back Annie and I were headed to Vintage Days at the Barber Museum. About 200 miles into the 4500 mile round trip her F800GS refused to start. Off came the FJR plastic and her plastic for a jump (I didn't have the Antigravity thingee then). Got to a battery shop, and of course it started right up. Battery tested okay under load and the charging system was also good. For the next 13 days of the trip it was hit and miss. I must have jumped her 15-20 times. The battery was warranteed by a local dealer so I wanted to make it back. Got home, pulled into the shop and asked her to start the bike.... dead. I pulled the battery immediately and took it to the dealer. Tested dead and it was replaced. Hence, the remote terminal. By the way, all this happened before the fix to the GEN III battery cover, so getting to the battery was a royal PITA.

Also got a lesson in AGM batteries. The link between cells can break which essentially renders the battery useless. However, evidently the broken internal connection can arc and weld itself back together.... temporarily. Or so I've been told by an acquaintance who spent his life in a battery testing lab.
Dang you! For 2 days all I've been thinking about is the inconvenience of a jump start. Nothing personal but I hate you!!

I'm thinking of just cutting an el-cheapo set of jumper cables, wiring to the battery and routing to under the seat. I really do not want to spend any $$$ on this.

Russ
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 01:52 PM
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I missed it if anyone included the warning to never jump a bike from a running car/truck. Their charging systems can fry a bike's. Jumping from their battery with their vehicle off is okay. It has more capacity but won't try and pump double or triple the amps through your bike like it might if running.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 01:55 PM
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There are many options for installing a terminal, but you're right in thinking it doesn't take rocket surgery. Run a heavy wire from the positive terminal to a point where it can be easily accessed. Cover the hot end with a rubber cap from Lowe's and fuse the wire with a 30 amp fuse, also in an easily assessable location. You can leave the fuse out until needed as an additional safety measure. Don't think you need to run a ground wire.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 03:32 PM
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With the jumper device, I'd say it's easy enough to take out two screws on the right panel over the battery and jump it there. If you are not going to wire it properly to the back and use proper connectors/weather caps, then it's not worth the risks. BTW that should be 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp fuse will blow in an instant when cranking... starter can take more than 80 amps.

I did post up elsewhere, my install of wires to the back with connectors, also feeds the aux. fuse panel.... have to dig that up.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pterodactyl View Post
Awhile back Annie and I were headed to Vintage Days at the Barber Museum. About 200 miles into the 4500 mile round trip her F800GS refused to start. Off came the FJR plastic and her plastic for a jump (I didn't have the Antigravity thingee then). Got to a battery shop, and of course it started right up. Battery tested okay under load and the charging system was also good. For the next 13 days of the trip it was hit and miss. I must have jumped her 15-20 times. The battery was warranteed by a local dealer so I wanted to make it back. Got home, pulled into the shop and asked her to start the bike.... dead. I pulled the battery immediately and took it to the dealer. Tested dead and it was replaced. Hence, the remote terminal. By the way, all this happened before the fix to the GEN III battery cover, so getting to the battery was a royal PITA.

Also got a lesson in AGM batteries. The link between cells can break which essentially renders the battery useless. However, evidently the broken internal connection can arc and weld itself back together.... temporarily. Or so I've been told by an acquaintance who spent his life in a battery testing lab.
One thing AGM batteries cannot take is a sudden stop, I have ruined them by dropping them from as little as 16 inches, {the bottom of the inside step on the sliding door of my van where they used to ride to and from the boat ramp}. As mentioned above, the plates are thin and the connectors thin.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
With the jumper device, I'd say it's easy enough to take out two screws on the right panel over the battery and jump it there. If you are not going to wire it properly to the back and use proper connectors/weather caps, then it's not worth the risks. BTW that should be 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp fuse will blow in an instant when cranking... starter can take more than 80 amps.

I did post up elsewhere, my install of wires to the back with connectors, also feeds the aux. fuse panel.... have to dig that up.
The one I have is purpose designed as a remote terminal. The wire is the same gauge as the jumper cables I carry and has a very heavy covering. The remote end attaches to the bike and has a plastic cover that snaps over the terminal. It came with an automotive Maxi fuse (the big a$$ spade fuse). I frankly do not remember what the amperage is of the fuse they provided, but you are right about a 30 amp not being enough. It is probably much larger.

Kevin
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